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V1 Redlines - 2008 SS TC Goblin build in Mississippi

B
The one on the left picture I believe is your MAP sensor. You'll need that. The one on the right looks to be EVAP canister purge solenoid. You can probably go without it.
 
S
I had the same issue, both were broken off. The first photo is a MAP sensor which I am replacing. I found one on ebay for $23.32 item #12592026. the second one is for the EVAP system which you don't use unless your state law requires it. I'm going to plug the hole in mine.
 
redline
anyone know what moog bushings fit the fe5 control arms. At least that is what I am reading is that the 2008 SS has the Fe5 control arm. I read in someones build thread that they had trouble with the bushing being too small and I just want to make sure I get the correct part number.
 
Waterdriver
anyone know what moog bushings fit the fe5 control arms. At least that is what I am reading is that the 2008 SS has the Fe5 control arm. I read in someones build thread that they had trouble with the bushing being too small and I just want to make sure I get the correct part number.
The one I used was: MOOG K201285 - RockAuto
 
redline
I may have on accident when I messaged him earlier. is there an upgraded MAP? I thought I read about it on someones tuned Cobalt ss tc? might be worth just getting that one now?? anyone have any info on them? I believe it was 3 bar or something like that.

Thank you for the part number Water.
 
redline
Hmmm, guess I'll get the stock one for now and replace it when the time comes. Thank you for the info as always.
 
dperkins
If you are going to tune and run extra boost, get the 3 bar sensor. Luckily mine already had it but it's only about 100 dollars anyway.
 
ctuinstra
Zzp recommends the 4 bar map with their upgraded tunes. Definitely will not work on a stock tune.
From reading, you only use the Bar sensor your tune it designed for. You can't just go change the sensor from stock to 3 Bar and things will be good.

I'm learning and thinking out loud here.
 
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B
I'm not 100% sure, but I think it has to do with the MAP sensor output voltage scaling. On a 2 bar MAP, it's something like 0V for no boost and 5V for ~14.7 lbs boost. If you swap it out for a 3 bar MAP on the stock tune, then ~14.7 lbs of boost will read something like 3.3V. That will throw the ECM off by thinking it's getting a different amount of air than it should at those pressures.
 
redline
the bad thing is with getting this car from co-part I don't know what the last owner had done to it. I will have to wait now until I have it hooked back up and pull the tune off it. Wish I would have done that before stripping the donor. live and learn I guess.
 
redline
Car is completely stripped. I do have a few TC questions. car is manual so I have clutch pedal and clutch Pipe/hose. I have the shifter (bonus it had a short throw aftermarket shifter) was wondering if there is anything else I need to keep that is not on the standard checklist???

Items I would question are - rear rotors and calipers? in the video they are drum so not sure if I should keep them.
rear suspension?
steering tube(part the shaft came out of)?

Anything else I should hold onto for now?
 

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B
The TC kit comes with 4 rotors and calipers.

No need to keep anything from the rear suspension.

For steering you need the u-joint shaft, the bearing, and the steering wheel tube. And the power steering module, but that's obvious.
 
redline
Thanks! my next dumb question is for those that got their donor off of CO-PART. I did not recieve and title or registration, just a bill of sale. Is this normal? Did any of you get a title or anything to help with registering the goblin?
 
redline
My donor had a destroyed intercooler so I need to get a new one. anyone have any recommendations? I am not so sure how effective the stock one is and now would be the time to change it.
 
ctuinstra
I was the same way. Even called ZZP to see if they could tell me what was on it, And they could not. So now I’m left guessing. I really want to get HP tuners to open it up and look at it myself.
 
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