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Tow-Rig - 2003 Silverado 1500HD - Quadrasteer

G
Use the OEM service manual diagnostic steps for the particular code that you are trying to fix. You even have to be careful with code descriptions because code readers can have it somewhat wrong. The service manual will tell you what the code really means, including whatever the module is measuring that it doesn't like. They can be tricky to decipher sometimes though.
 
jirwin
I figured since I'm going at this alone I should get the manual, so I ordered the Silverado equivalent of the service manual you have for the Cobalt. Should be here soon.
 
G
jirwin said:
I figured since I'm going at this alone I should get the manual, so I ordered the Silverado equivalent of the service manual you have for the Cobalt. Should be here soon.
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Depending on how much you had to give for it, it might have made more sense to do it with a temporary subscription io the ACDELCO TDS system. I've always purchase hard copies but will probably not buy anymore unless I get a great price on them.

It can still be hard to do without a full function diagnostic scanner such as a tech2 or aftermarket equivalent.
 
jirwin
Hitachi TB. That's a known brand name, but not OEM. Amazon reviews for it are mixed, most saying it died and is doing exactly what mine is after a while. Maybe its worth the $150 to just get an OEM
 
SmsDetroit
Those trucks are known for the wheel speed sensors dropping out. It will set a code then work fine for a while. Drive it while reading the wheel sensors and see if one drops. Happens a lot during a turn when you load the bearings differently
 
G
Hard to say on the throttle body since that had a problem that caused them to replace it. But keep it in mind if the diagnostic steps tell you it’s bad, don’t just say it’s new and must be good.
 
jirwin
I bought a GM one just to do it. If it isn't that, oh well I have a spare. They fail commonly enough it'll be good to have on hand in the truck.
 
Rttoys
Ya. Check for codes on the TB and ABS.

Those years had a lot of tps codes/problems. You can get the sensor, but usually replacing the entire throttle body is better (if that’s the problem). Check codes and go from there.

those didn’t have a factory trailer brake controller that I know of. Check for abs codes.
 
Rttoys
Scratch my last post. I only skimmed over the highlights. I didn’t even see page 2. It’s been a long week with tornados, no electricity and such.

I’m glad you spent the money on a delco tb. Those years had a ton of problems with the tb and aftermarket stuff just made it worse. Hell, I even had new delco throttle body’s bad out of the box at one point. :rolleyes: I can’t remember if that year required a throttle relearn or not. I don’t think it does though. I think that started around 07 or so.

I would definitely get the butt connectors off there and solder in the wires for the connection. It may not be the issue, but it’s not helping anything either. That system is very sensitive. You should be able to follow the wires to the ecm and tac module (on bulkhead) for a visual inspection.

what Gtstorey is talking about, is something he and I both see in your codes, that most don’t know about. The codes are like your vin. Each digit has a meaning. I found this on the interwebs that explains it better than I can. Second digit 0- manufacture, 1- generic, 2- I forgot. I rarely see those.
IMG_2987.jpeg
 
jirwin
Well, I think I lucked out. Replacing the TB seemed to work. I drove it probably 3-4 hours this weekend in various conditions and it hasn't failed.

By the way, why in the world did GM think it was a good idea to run cooling thru the throttle body?? I keep hearing "helps prevent TB from freezing over in winter", but how does that even happen? I just bypassed it. Could lower IATs.
 
Rttoys
jirwin said:
Well, I think I lucked out. Replacing the TB seemed to work. I drove it probably 3-4 hours this weekend in various conditions and it hasn't failed.

By the way, why in the world did GM think it was a good idea to run cooling thru the throttle body?? I keep hearing "helps prevent TB from freezing over in winter", but how does that even happen? I just bypassed it. Could lower IATs.
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Good.

I heard it was for emissions and such. Really not sure though and I don’t think bypassing it helps or hurts anything.
 
jirwin
I have more updates for this to post, but I figured I'd share a more fun one from yesterday. I was driving along on a two lane highway and someone passed me and gave me a weird look. I gave them a weird look back and continued on my way and then looked in my rearview to see a GIANT cloud of smoke. I pulled over immediately and checked oil pressure and coolant temp as I was slowing down. Both were right where they should be. I shut it off and looked under the truck and saw a huge puddle of coolant. Figured out fairly quickly that it was one of the heater core hoses connectors that snapped clean, blew off, and dumped two full gallons of coolant onto my passenger side headers. The plastic hose end was crumbling to bits. Thankfully I hitched a ride to Autozone and back and replaced the cracked hose end with a stainless one in a couple minutes.
51748
 
Rttoys
lol. Yep. Pretty normal. Usually you’ll get a drip, that will cause a P0300 or P0308. As you are figuring out #8 coil is fried, you notice the coolant leak dripping on the coil. :rolleyes::D
 
A
Figured out fairly quickly that it was one of the heater core hoses connectors that snapped clean, blew off, and dumped two full gallons of coolant onto my passenger side headers. The plastic hose end was crumbling to bits. Thankfully I hitched a ride to Autozone and back and replaced the cracked hose end with a stainless one in a couple minutes.
View attachment 51748
[/QUOTE]
I really hate those built on, plastic ends!, they crumble to dust at just the wrong moment! Most of those era trucks have had them replaced and are ready to fail a second time by now. Thank goodness for the metal replacements, heater hoses really take max effort to stretch over the lock rib on the inlet. Rad hoses are bigger and have a little more flex. Thanks for the reminder! I need to check "the fleet" to insure there are none of those old plastic connector gizzies waiting to fail on me and strand me someplace! Summer's Coming!:cool:
 
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Rttoys
ps is normally a hose or hydrobooster. Of course it can be the pump, but I rarely had a pump leak. Hoses were always the first culprit. If fluid is low and you don’t see a leak, get under the dash and look at the brake pedal area For the hydroboost leaking. or put your hand under the booster and feel for a leak.
 
jirwin
Well some retarded kid t-boned me in a parking lot... he hit it in the exact right spot though because this is the only damage
52167


So... guess I'm looking for a door and a fender. Going to see what I can knock out myself first though. Annoyed, but it could have been way worse. I'm just glad he didn't hit anything near the quadrasteer system lol.
 
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