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V1 RG's Goblin #455 ('06 manual donor)

A
Big day today! She sat down on her own wheels, and I took her for a spin around the neighborhood. Clutch and shifter worked fine. Brakes were a little soft, so I will try bleeding them again. All the lights and signals worked great. Still need to debug the button panel info and return buttons.
Wheel alignment needs work.
View attachment 47501
AWESOME!! I hope and pray I'll be in your neck of the woods on 13June @ Hot Rod Power Tour! I hope we can meet up!(Hebron, OH) Bring your Goblin out to Hebron and show it off! If I'm there I'll pay your one day fee to get into the tour. If I am not Driving GOB-BALT I might be flat towing it with my pick up and working on it at each stop. I want to be able to show it to my many fans and detractors! I have a lot left to install and tinker with but most welding is done!; it should at least roll by departure time Sunday!(I may short the Tour and start in Nashville?{day #2} That is still a fair trot from Columbus, GA! Nashville I hope to hang with MarkM!) Exhaust System promises to be "as ugly as home-made sin!" I'll drive it a little without the bulkhead completed, that is my last item!
 
Rttoys
I see you used fuel hose for your brake feed line. I don’t think fuel hose is compatible with brake fluid. Looking up specs on the fuel hose, it’s not showing its brake fluid compatible. I did find this when searching remote reservoir lines:
IMG_2990.jpeg


looking at your pic, the hose is red, says fuel hose, but the numbers come up as a hydraulic hose. Just curious if that hose is brake fluid compatible?
IMG_2989.jpeg
 
RGSkid70
I see you used fuel hose for your brake feed line. I don’t think fuel hose is compatible with brake fluid. Looking up specs on the fuel hose, it’s not showing its brake fluid compatible. I did find this when searching remote reservoir lines:
View attachment 47507

looking at your pic, the hose is red, says fuel hose, but the numbers come up as a hydraulic hose. Just curious if that hose is brake fluid compatible?
View attachment 47508
Thanks Rttoys. Good catch. The brake master cylinder hoses are EPDM from Tractor Supply per IndyLonnie suggestion in post

Since that hose didn't fit the clutch master cylinder, I thought I could get away with using some fuel line instead. I will be swapping it out when I bleed the brakes again.
 
RGSkid70
Got my front bumper/skid plate installed. One step closer to inspection and registration. (Ohio requires front and rear bumpers).
IMG_20240920_160105748_HDR.jpg. IMG_20240920_160053880_HDR.jpg. IMG_20240901_204636918.jpg

I don't plan to keep the rear bumper after inspection; exhaust will probably blister the paint.
 
RGSkid70
The only other known item needed for the inspection is the windshield wiper. I've bought a manual wiper on Amazon. Have other builders using a manual wiper drilled a hole in the windshield? Need advice on mounting it.
 
Vwsaabvt
The only other known item needed for the inspection is the windshield wiper. I've bought a manual wiper on Amazon. Have other builders using a manual wiper drilled a hole in the windshield? Need advice on mounting it.
I just drilled the outer hole on the windshield frame larger on the drivers side and used it for my manual wiper.
 
RGSkid70
Goblin #455 has passed inspection in Ohio. Plan to get her title and registration tomorrow and she will be street legal. The inspector was a stand-up guy who overlooked a few minor problems.

One of which was the fact that the left front signal light didn't work. It was literally working day before yesterday. I attempted to remove the lens to check the bulb and completely destroyed it. Builders should be advised these mirror lights are not serviceable. I'm not the first to discover this.
 
RGSkid70
I have been chasing a couple of really strange electrical gremlins. I've about convinced myself they are caused by the BCM. None of them make the car undrivable or unsafe. They just annoy the crap out of me!
- horn doesn't work if the headlights are on. Works fine with lights off.
- high-beam indicator on the instrument cluster is on by default; turns off when the high beams are on.

I've checked and re-tightened every ground on the car. I've confirmed continuity of wires from the switch(es) to the BCM. What's frustrating is that in both cases the devices work fine, just not when they are supposed to.
 
G
Low beam headlights are not controlled by or touch the bcm.
Horn has an additional switched ground in the bcm, I guess for the alarm. But the horn button, as originally wired just passes through the bcm with no control.

At least on the later models. I would expect the earlier models to be the same.

You likely have issues in the fuse box or with a ground. Usually when you have to unrelated systems working or not working together like you described, it’s a ground that is bad causing the circuits to try and back feed until it finds another ground path.
 
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A
I have been chasing a couple of really strange electrical gremlins. I've about convinced myself they are caused by the BCM. None of them make the car undrivable or unsafe. They just annoy the crap out of me!
- horn doesn't work if the headlights are on. Works fine with lights off.
- high-beam indicator on the instrument cluster is on by default; turns off when the high beams are on.

I've checked and re-tightened every ground on the car. I've confirmed continuity of wires from the switch(es) to the BCM. What's frustrating is that in both cases the devices work fine, just not when they are supposed to.
A short in the printed circuit under the fuse panel? Water? A renegade bit of metal in there?
Good news on the registration side!!
 
Traé
Thanks for this picture! I'm planning to flip the lower control arms on mine this winter. How much clearance did you gain with this change?

I’m curious if this was done on purpose or accident. From the picture it looks like there is a lot of positive camber. If you flip it will you have enough adjustment to take that out?
 
RGSkid70
Flipped control arms got me about 1.5 - 2 inches of additional ground clearance. The appearance of positive camber is distortion in the photo. There's actually a little negative camber. Getting the front end (and rear) aligned is still on my to-do list. The DF design on the front suspension has a lot of adjustment range for camber and toe.
 
RGSkid70
Just kind of looking for an overall view of how it looks. Ground clearance and such.
I'm going to swap out the rear springs this weekend to get me some more ground clearance in the rear and correct some excess negative camber. I'll take some side profile pictures afterwards. Also, the tires on the car now are not the ones I will ultimately use. Current tires are low profile. The 215/75r 14s I plan to should add 2 more inches.
 
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