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V1 Mikes Extended, Full Frame Goblin - 2009 Cobalt LS with 135k donor

Ross
1. I have never removed the engine harness. It goes wherever the engine goes.
2. No turbo yet... so no idea.
 
M
Yes, that is also correct. You could just remove the V-band adapter.
I removed the V band adapter, but it looks like that this is not just a simple adapter, it has the waste gate mechanism in it. Send cut send won't be an option. I guess I'll just go with the V Band and see how I can figure that out. Still no hint what turbo I have besides the AR50 M12 no other sign which manufacturer or so.

Installed the clutch and will measure the air gap soon.

Engine Harness installed as well.
 
M
Here's a picture. I'll measure when I'm next time in the shop.

 
M
Here are some more pictures. The exhaust is a little over 4in in diameter. The boost outlet is 2in diameter.

Where does the MAF sensor sit? I have a bunch of pipes but doesn't know if this is before the turbo or after the turbo.

55790

55791

55792

55793
 
M
Some thoughts about the turbo piping. The Turbo has a 2in outlet. I am on the fence getting the Type 16 (2.5in)or Type 10 (3in) Inter cooler. The Throttle body has a 3in inlet.

All pipes I have are 2.5 in. Most of them are Aluminum but some are also plastic followed by a wide array of silicone bends.

Does it even make a difference if I go with 2, 2.5 or 3in pipes, since the Turbo only has a 2in outlet? I could probably go from the Turbo with a 2 to 2.5 in to the IC. Then go from the IC to the Inlet with a 3in pipe.

Where would i put the blow of valve? Before or after the IC? and where does the MAF Sensor sit. On the Inlet side of the turbo downstream of the Air filter, behind the turbo and before the IC or behind the IC ?
 
M
I tracked the time building the LNF harness. 33h and 15 min total and I'm done. Have some busy weeks ahead of me, but I hope by the middle of March I can start swapping the engines. And hope that I'm no more than 2 weeks down.
 
M
Made up my mind and will go with a 2.5in IC, Type 16 at Frozenboost. Seems like there are a lots of websites offering the same ICs. Probably all made at the same factory. I found Alloyworks shipping it for free ($18) saved in compare to frozenboost. I also found those nice overflow tanks. Unfortunately sold out, but will get one of those.

Regarding the set up of the sensors. I found in a pipe another sensor. I believe it could be pressure or Temperature. I also saw that I have a possibility to place the MAF sensor before or after the Turbo. Checking around my cars. I see that some cars have the MAF sensor directly behind the Air Filter. Advantage is cooler air and under vacuum rather than boost.

It's really a disadvantage never taken a Cobalt apart...

Right now my set up looks like:
- 4in: Air Filter. 4in Pipe with Vacuum connector and MAF sensor (capped) to Turbo.
- Turbo
- 2in to 2.5in Silicone adapter, 2.5in pipe, IC, 2.5in pipe with blow off valve, 2.5in to 3in Silicone adapter, MAF sensor pipe, Throttle body.
 
M
Apparently 3in v band isn't equal a 3in v band. Ordered one from Amazon and it won't match the turbo. Since I have an unknown turbo, I have to get some stock and build my own. Bummer.
 
M
I am in the process of relearning the key. I deactivated the VATS with HP Tuners, but thought I relearn the key before I swap engines. I switched it back on with HP tuners and I thought the procedure is switch the ignition on for 10min until the VATS light goes off and repeat that 3 times.

Unfortunately, the light only switched off one time. I have 2 keys and tried the procedure with both keys. No Luck. However, with one of the keys, the car starts for a second and then goes off, while the other key doesn't even start the engine.

Any ideas what I could try?
 
Rauq
I am in the process of relearning the key. I deactivated the VATS with HP Tuners, but thought I relearn the key before I swap engines. I switched it back on with HP tuners and I thought the procedure is switch the ignition on for 10min until the VATS light goes off and repeat that 3 times.

Unfortunately, the light only switched off one time. I have 2 keys and tried the procedure with both keys. No Luck. However, with one of the keys, the car starts for a second and then goes off, while the other key doesn't even start the engine.

Any ideas what I could try?
I thought you couldn't disable VATS on an E69?
 
G
I thought you couldn't disable VATS on an E69?
You can't, at least without knowing the secret. I've seen post on HPT that says they or at least running it as a standalone, but never any details on how.

But this build has gone through so many changes, is the current setup an E69/LNF ECM?
 
M
Every time I replace the BCM, I have to do 3 sets of 10 minutes.
Here is a video on how to do it. His idea of charging the battery might help?
That's what I did. I'll try tonight again. I wonder if they cheap key and lock I bought from Ebay doesn't have the chip ??

@Rauq I'm not planning or did disable the VATS at the LNF E69. I'm getting ready for swapping the engines. I had it disabled on my LSJ but thought it's a good idea to relearn the key before I swap engines.
 
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