V1 Bill's Street/Track Goblin - 2007 SS/SC - Chassis #204

[Rttoys]

One thing that cleaned up my engine nicely was putting a ZZP header on it.

 

[Rttoys]

Well . . . i decided to go back into the garage for some more action. Got the transmission pulled apart from the engine.

The only thing I saw was the sleeve of the throw-out bearing is in poor shape. Might need to go ahead and replace that.

I have always had a rule, that something that takes a lot of work to get to, gets replaced if it’s at questionable.

 

[JBINTX]

new throw out bearing for sure. You will never have an easier time replacing the clutch than now. You might weigh the minimal cost of doing that versus having an issue later.

 

[ToxicBill]

So, I took off the clutch and flywheel and they look . . . . really good. Here are pics to give you guys a look. The only thing I question is that the surface on the pressure plate is grooved/ribbed . . . almost like it was machined that way. Is that correct?

In the end, I'll probably end up keeping the flywheel but maybe replace the clutch plate and pressure plate . .

 

[Ross]

So, I took off the clutch and flywheel and they look . . . . really good. Here are pics to give you guys a look. The only thing I question is that the surface on the pressure plate is grooved/ribbed . . . almost like it was machined that way. Is that correct?

In the end, I'll probably end up keeping the flywheel but maybe replace the clutch plate and pressure plate . .

Looks pretty good. How thick is your clutch plate? 5mm = worn, 8mm= new.

 

[JBINTX]

So, I took off the clutch and flywheel and they look . . . . really good. Here are pics to give you guys a look. The only thing I question is that the surface on the pressure plate is grooved/ribbed . . . almost like it was machined that way. Is that correct?

In the end, I'll probably end up keeping the flywheel but maybe replace the clutch plate and pressure plate . .

I have never seen grooved pressure plate? I googled it and did not find any references. The surfaces that engage the clutch plate should be smooth and clean.

 

[Vwsaabvt]

I have never seen grooved pressure plate? I googled it and did not find any references. The surfaces that engage the clutch plate should be smooth and clean.

looks like someone tried to resurface it... poorly

 

[WorkinMan55]

So, I took off the clutch and flywheel and they look . . . . really good. Here are pics to give you guys a look. The only thing I question is that the surface on the pressure plate is grooved/ribbed . . . almost like it was machined that way. Is that correct?

In the end, I'll probably end up keeping the flywheel but maybe replace the clutch plate and pressure plate . .

My pressure plate looks just like yours. My flywheel also has grooves in it. Just don’t have a good pic. Mine are the factory original parts

 

[Rttoys]

Looks like someone just replaced it. Those grooves are “new”.

 

[ToxicBill]

My clutch plate measures a touch over 9mm . . . so, yeah . . . look like this guy just had a clutch job. Nice, but I wonder what happened to the throw out bearing.

The thing with the grooves on the pressure plate is weird . . . but, as long as its "normal".

Looks like I'm going to ZZP for that throw out bearing, exhaust header, and maybe some other goodies.

 

[TheNuker]

Might have had the flywheel resurfaced and they just did a rough job?

Nuker-

 

[Ross]

I have 2 throw out bearings.... I bought a new one before I knew that my clutch came with one.
Oh, and my pressure plate has those grooves too.

 

[ToxicBill]

Thoughts on the reusing the flywheel bolts? ZZP sells them for $55 ($7/bolt!) I'd like to spend that elsewhere if I can.

 

[JBINTX]

Thoughts on the reusing the flywheel bolts? ZZP sells them for $55 ($7/bolt!) I'd like to spend that elsewhere if I can.

reuse them
torque properly in star pattern… 15 Ft-lbs, 39 Ft-lbs, then 25 degree final turn..

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Depends upon the torquing instructions. If it states torque to a value, then the bolts may be reused once. If the instructions state torque to a value then tighten by a specified additional degrees of turn, they are torque-to-yield and can't be reused. The bolts are stretched at that point and cannot be stretched a second time.

Edit: think about engine and drivetrain fasteners, almost all have critical torque they must maintain to keep things connected and working properly. The bolts on the clutch assembly must handle all of the torque generated by the engine, sometime far above the stock torque output. Having new bolts in these critical places is far safer for the longevity of the drivetrain rather than saving a few bucks.

 

[Rttoys]

Go for it. About the only ones I won’t reuse are head bolts.

 

[ToxicBill]

OK . . . new problem. I was removing the wiring that goes to the spark plugs and I noticed that a bolt was . . . loose.

To get to that bolt, I removed the ignition coil and found what appear to be water/coolant with some amount of oil

Any thoughts on where this coolant may have come from? Perhaps a bad gasket?

EDIT: I did degrease/pressure wash the engine prior to removing it from the car. Perhaps that is the source of the water since that bolt did have the ignition coil slightly unseated.

 

[Vwsaabvt]

The oil is from the valve cover leaking because that bolt was loose. If all of that was in there before you would have probably noticed a misfire. Put a new valve cover gasket in.

 

[Rttoys]

The oil is from the valve cover leaking because that bolt was loose. If all of that was in there before you would have probably noticed a misfire. Put a new valve cover gasket in.

Pretty much this. ^^
what did the spark plug boot look like? If it looks like the others, then it’s probably from your pressure washing. Like said above, you would have noticed a misfire with that much water in there. Not to mention (unless someone knows better) there’s no coolant up there, just oil.

also a note: in a highly humid climate like we have down here, it’s not uncommon to have moisture built up in places like that and over time, it can easily fill up the hole with water. Anyone with an LS powered truck or car with the knock sensors under the intake, has probably experienced knock sensor codes because those holes have fill with water and rusted up the sensor and wiring.

 

[ToxicBill]

Yeah, the engine ran fine with no codes . . . so I'm hoping it was just water from the washing. In any case, I was planning on a new valve cover gasket anyway. After I wiped off the spark plug boot . . it looked like all the others.

Yeah . . that was a panic moment just before bed. LOL