V1 Jay’s Build Log- Track Goblin, extended #323, 07 SS SC

[Ross]

Any spark at the plugs? Any OBDII codes?

 

[Gtstorey]

If no codes I would expect a bad connection to the coils. That is one of the few "no starts" that won't throw a code.

I'm a little surprised that you are only seeing 50psi fuel rail pressure. I thought pretty much all GM used 58 psi as base pressure for the last 20 years. You start subtracting boost pressure from 50 psi and the injectors won't flow much. Of course they may designed around that lower pressure. It's not likely to cause a no start problem though.

 

[Rttoys]

The pressure should still hold with key off. If it’s dropping off, there’s a “leak”. It could be the fuel pump bleeding back or an injector(s) leaking. It’s odd it’s dropping off that quickly. Makes me wonder if it’s the pump (new part is not always a good part) or the injectors are hung (command) open. Have you pulled the plugs to see if they are wet?

 

[Rttoys]

If no codes I would expect a bad connection to the coils. That is one of the few "no starts" that won't throw a code.

I'm a little surprised that you are only seeing 50psi fuel rail pressure. I thought pretty much all GM used 58 psi as base pressure for the last 20 years. You start subtracting boost pressure from 50 psi and the injectors won't flow much. Of course they may designed around that lower pressure. It's not likely to cause a no start problem though.

Low pressure could be from a bad fuel pressure regulator or even an inaccurate gauge (This happened to me recently).
edit. Or even a fuel system leak like I said before.

 

[Gtstorey]

I see that Ross posted earlier that he is seeing about 58 psi on his so that is something to investigate but again I don't think that is likely to be a no start problem. You can always use a little starter fluid to confirm whether it is firing.

 

[jayrolls]

Where to start:
1- Installed a new fuel pump 2 weeks ago after some testing of the old one. It is putting out better pressure. The old pump was only putting 40lbs key on, engine off. Helped a little bit, still was taking 3 attempts to get it to start.
2- Have been getting a code for the mass air flow sensor. Order new maf housing with straightener and MAF sensor. Installed both today.
3- Just got new zzp header and my exhaust back from JET-HOT and installed.

Now she won’t start. Cranks no start. Started at the fuel pump because I changed it recently. I am getting good key on engine off pressure 50psi. As soon as the pump stops running the pressure immediately drops to zero. This is an issue, but I don’t think that is my no start problem. When cranking, gauge pressure on the rail reads 50psi. And keeps reading it as long as it cranks. So I would think that I have good pressure to at least start. I have the DF MAF housing and old sensor back on and it makes no change. I have tried with the MAF unplugged just to see, didn’t make a difference. At this point I am thinking I have a fuel issue, the wife got home and was able to help. I got some throttle body cleaner and sprayed the intake while the wife cranked. Still not starting. Now I think i have an ignition problem. If anyone has any thoughts I’m all ears.

UPDATE:
While out of town this weekend I disconnected the battery and let the Goblin chill. Todays activities. Loaded a fresh copy of the tune. Removed the fuel pressure gauge. Added about 3 gallons of fuel, used electric contact cleaner on the PCM connectors and pins and the MAF connector and pins. Used di-electric grease on the connectors. Pulled and checked every fuse in the under hood fuse box. Pulled and tapped each relay to make sure one wasn't sticking. Was able to get her to pop but had a pronounced mis-fire. Pulled the spark plugs, they where pretty wet. Cleaned and reinstalled. I imagine that while it wouldn’t start that I was still pushing fuel. Started back up, smocked for a minute or two. Started running like before no problems. About 2 hours after letting it sit again after running, went to check it again. Started on the first try. Fingers crossed, that the issue is fixed.

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Sure sounds like an electrical gremlin was messing something up and you scared it out of the system with the cleaning and reconnections, hopefully gone for good!

 

[Gtstorey]

If the the issue comes back, you may need to tighten the individual wire connections in the large block connectors on the fuse box.

 

[jayrolls]

Installed the new dual gauge pod for the boost and AFR gauges. Cut and modified a button panel for my heated seat switches, dimmer, fog lights button and 12v usb plug. Not the prettiest, but it functions. Have the oem seat belts out getting rebuilt. Hope to have them and the side panels back on next weekend. Get the alignment corrected and I should be ready to start driving.

 

[jayrolls]

installed the seats belts after getting them back from Safety-restore. They retract better, but still not quite like I would like them too. kinda seems like the angle the mechanism mounts causes the belt to twist a little.
Worked the alignment some today. Not sure if I was getting the caster correct. I bought the gauge from the post that DF uses. i think I was getting 8 degrees. Could use some more pics of zeroing the cage on the tunnel and correct placement. Was able to get caster set at -1 1/2 degrees at all 4 corners. steering wheel is pretty centered. Gonna try to find an alignment shop that can set the toe.
Was nice being able to get it out and drive. The new DF shifter is nice. Shifts much smother, feels like you are connected to the trans.

 

[Ross]

I wasn't happy with my seat belts either. I researched, and some said that seat belts get dirty, so I washed them. That helped a little. I think the seat belt is a little closer in the Goblin than in the Cobalt. Kind of want to try shortening the seat belt 12", as I think that will bring the belt back to the same position on the roller that it was designed for. I also have to occasionally unwind the belt all the way, as this will throw out any small stones that get captured in the roller. Gravel driveway life.
I doubt that 1.5 degrees of caster camber will give your low profile tires the correct wear pattern. That is pretty aggressive.

 

[JBINTX]

1.5 degrees caster? Or camber?
If you set camber, setting the toe in is easy. Try it yourself first.

 

[Ross]

Doh! Thanks Jason, I did mean camber.

 

[jayrolls]

I wasn't happy with my seat belts either. I researched, and some said that seat belts get dirty, so I washed them. That helped a little. I think the seat belt is a little closer in the Goblin than in the Cobalt. Kind of want to try shortening the seat belt 12", as I think that will bring the belt back to the same position on the roller that it was designed for. I also have to occasionally unwind the belt all the way, as this will throw out any small stones that get captured in the roller. Gravel driveway life.
I doubt that 1.5 degrees of caster camber will give your low profile tires the correct wear pattern. That is pretty aggressive.

Ross,
My typo. I was able to 1.5 degrees negative camber. I think I was getting about 8 degrees caster. Getting the caster numbers I wasn’t 100% sure on my gauge placement. I thought that 1.5 degrees of camber is what I want for street use.

 

[JBINTX]

Ross,
My typo. I was able to 1.5 degrees negative camber. I think I was getting about 8 degrees caster. Getting the caster numbers I wasn’t 100% sure on my gauge placement. I thought that 1.5 degrees of camber is what I want for street use.

1.5 deg is what is in a DF video. Most of us down here in Houston have settled in around 0.5 to get full contact of tire to ground - especially if you are going to mostly be on the street.

 

[Gtstorey]

"Recommended for street use" isn't very useful for something like the Goblin. My understanding is most of that number is based upon flex in the suspension so that in a hard turn, camber will basically go to zero for the most traction. Depending on the weight of the vehicle and amount of flex in the suspension this will vary a lot. On the front of a Goblin, with little weight and no rubber bushings the camber can be less. It's also a trade off of how much rubber is touching when straight vs in a turn. At 1.5 degrees with wide tires, you may find that the tires are only running on the inside edge when straight and still might not get full contact when turning.

 

[Rttoys]

Street use, I would run -.3 to -.8 camber. Around -.5 works great.

caster- put your gage on the center tower pointing the direction you are going to read it on the wheel, and zero it out. This mean if you are doing the dr side wheel, put the gage on the tower facing the passenger side. Then take the gage and place it on the lower hub studs. This will be your caster reading. Re-zero facing the dr side to do the pass wheel.

 

[jayrolls]

Street use, I would run -.3 to -.8 camber. Around -.5 works great.

caster- put your gage on the center tower pointing the direction you are going to read it on the wheel, and zero it out. This mean if you are doing the dr side wheel, put the gage on the tower facing the passenger side. Then take the gage and place it on the lower hub studs. This will be your caster reading. Re-zero facing the dr side to do the pass wheel.

I think that is what I was doing. I’ll try again. As for the camber that sucks, means I need to touch it again.

 

[Gtstorey]

Are you setting it with the car loaded with your typical driving weight. On a 1600 lb car it will make a difference, especially the rear camber since it doesn't have the dual a-arms to keep it in check.

 

[jayrolls]

Are you setting it with the car loaded with your typical driving weight. On a 1600 lb car it will make a difference, especially the rear camber since it doesn't have the dual a-arms to keep it in check.

I have been sitting in the car.