New Gearbox / Clutch Upgrade Procedure

GoblinGuyZ

GoblinGuyZ

Well-Known Member
Hi all, purchased my Goblin assembled so never had the joy / pain of putting it altogether but I have a brand new 0 mile LSD gearbox for my LSJ and stage 2 clutch (current one is beginning to slip anyway) to install and wondering for all who have done this what the best process is, how involved an anything special considerations etc. Is it full engine out etc? A basic summary of steps would be much appreciated so I don't give myself more work than necessary or underestimate what's involved. If it's engine out what's the process for that. Sorry to sound like a complete newb but better to ask a dumb question than regret it later lol. TIA
 
Ross

Ross

Goblin Guru
I put a new clutch in my LSJ the spring of 2020, then the next winter, I put a new F35 in it with a Quaife differential.
Yes it is a full engine out, as you can't separate the LSJ from the F35 if it is in the goblin.
Check out my build thread, as it probably documents it better than my memory can.
 
GoblinGuyZ

GoblinGuyZ

Well-Known Member
Ross said:
I put a new clutch in my LSJ the spring of 2020, then the next winter, I put a new F35 in it with a Quaife differential.
Yes it is a full engine out, as you can't separate the LSJ from the F35 if it is in the goblin.
Check out my build thread, as it probably documents it better than my memory can.
Click to expand...
Thanks, will check it now. Was hoping it could be an engine in but I know that was a long shot. Anything I should change out once I'm in there?
 
Ross

Ross

Goblin Guru
Replace the main seal on the crankshaft? It is cheap, and hard to get to.
I replaced the clutch hydraulic slave, and the 3 short bolts, with 3 socket head bolts.
I had O'Reilly Auto Parts resurface the stock flywheel, or you could replace it with a light weight one.
New flywheel bolts, fresh paint, put everything back in your goblin.

You still get to refill the engine fluids, and get the air out.
My AC vacuum compressor was helpful to bleed the clutch line, also had my son help with a manual clutch bleed while using the vacuum.
Did a red-neck, 4000 RPM for 4 seconds, radiator air bleed.
Bled the brakes manually. New oil in the transmission (Redline MT-90), and engine Mobil 5w-30 oil.

I am currently putting my 2nd engine into my goblin, so going thru a lot of these same steps now.
 
duthehustle93

duthehustle93

Active Member
If you haven't yet purchased a new flywheel, I have a new one, PM me if interested. I purchased an unfinished goblin project and they had a brand new flywheel installed. I'm going with an aluminum flywheel so i have no use for the factory one.
 
Robinjo

Robinjo

Goblin Guru
You'll enjoy the LW flywheel so not really a loss. I have a SS flywheel laying around with 500 miles on it's freshly cut. I had to go back into my trans and just did the LW one while back in there.
 
comegetjoe

comegetjoe

Goblin Guru
I was just playin. I havent driven a lightweight car with a lightweight flywheel yet, Im sure its a solid upgrade.
 
A

ah.b.normal

Goblin Guru
You can save a little time and liquids by supporting the engine from the top with either a bar and chain across the frame(but there is no specialized tool made for a Goblin) or support the engine in place with an engine crane. Car up on some
Pretty tall jack stands guving is about 1.5’ clearance. We dropped L strut, hung L caliper out of the way, Disconnected both lower ball joints, Both half shafts and L steering link. Dropped the subframe and had a second engine hoist on hand for handling the trans but didn’t use it.(IF working alone would be good to R&R the trans from engine.) obviously disconnect clutch line, any wiring, shifter cables and trans mounts. Loosen upper engine Mount bolts(support engine w/ bar or hoist.) Drop subframe then trans. Took two of us about 3.5 hrs. But we did not install new clutch, flywheel parts. Obviously your times will vary. dropping the engine as well will require disco-ing fuel coolants and pulling the engine wiring block from the fuse box and maybe some misc wiring that does not source from there. And maybe the exhaust as well.
Your call.
 
GoblinGuyZ

GoblinGuyZ

Well-Known Member
ah.b.normal said:
You can save a little time and liquids by supporting the engine from the top with either a bar and chain across the frame(but there is no specialized tool made for a Goblin) or support the engine in place with an engine crane. Car up on some
Pretty tall jack stands guving is about 1.5’ clearance. We dropped L strut, hung L caliper out of the way, Disconnected both lower ball joints, Both half shafts and L steering link. Dropped the subframe and had a second engine hoist on hand for handling the trans but didn’t use it.(IF working alone would be good to R&R the trans from engine.) obviously disconnect clutch line, any wiring, shifter cables and trans mounts. Loosen upper engine Mount bolts(support engine w/ bar or hoist.) Drop subframe then trans. Took two of us about 3.5 hrs. But we did not install new clutch, flywheel parts. Obviously your times will vary. dropping the engine as well will require disco-ing fuel coolants and pulling the engine wiring block from the fuse box and maybe some misc wiring that does not source from there. And maybe the exhaust as well.
Your call.
Click to expand...
Thanks. Started last night and did more than was necessary but more or less figured out what you just said would be the best way next time. I ended up using my bike jack to actually line up the gearbox and that worked well. Freaked out at first cause the fidanaza flywheel wasn’t lining up with the bolts and I assumed it was an evenly spaced bolt pattern but they are actually slightly offset so I had to rotate it a bit to get it to line up correctly. Got to put back everything together now between tonight and tomorrow. I ended up using the zzp throw out bearing spacer they recommended so since my measured air gap was about half inch so I hope that works out for me.
 
GoblinGuyZ

GoblinGuyZ

Well-Known Member
To bolt it all back I’m going to lift the engine with the hoist, slide the subframe under onto 4 jacks stands then bolt the engine back onto the subframe and transfer the hoist onto the chassis and drop that back down onto the engine and bolt it back to that and the subframe. Then I have to bleed the brakes and clutch with my pressure bleeder and refill coolant and see what’s what.
 
GoblinGuyZ

GoblinGuyZ

Well-Known Member
ah.b.normal said:
I hope for your sake that you don't do this so often you get good at it!:rolleyes:
Click to expand...
Sigh I hope not either. I have another engine there to build so I will probably be back at it at some point. I have to reconnect everything during the course of this week, bleed brakes and clutch and fill coolants and then go for a drive and hope that everything works as it should. I have gear engagement at least in 1st so hopefully that means the bearing spacer is good since I dont have 5 neutrals lol
 
GoblinGuyZ

GoblinGuyZ

Well-Known Member
Hi all so trying to get this thing fully put back up to go for a drive and see what’s what but can’t remember the exact location for this bolt / stud with the ground thread extension. Thought I had a pic but can’t find it. Can anyone confirm this is the right bolt hole for it right behind the clutch elbow. Thanks.

46259
 
GoblinGuyZ

GoblinGuyZ

Well-Known Member
Gtstorey said:
It doesn't really matter as long as your wire will reach it. It's all the same electrically.
Click to expand...
yeah that I know I just haven’t put back the wires yet they are all in a heap so gotta figure that one out and I’m guessing it won’t reach it if it’s on the other side. I’ll just have find the correct ground and work from there.
 
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