V1 Accusump oil system

[Towerdog]

I thought the oil was designed to work at 170 degrees. Why would you want it to be colder than that?

That's why I'm asking... I don't know.. But say the oil goes in at 190 deg I don't think it will drop 20 deg in that little thing at the speed it is going through. But if it was to go through a radiator with an ambient temp of 70 deg I would think you would get closer to the 170 mark... Duno somebody on here surely does.

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Engine oil has a specific temperature range to operate within so it is the correct viscosity and provides the proper film thickness to lubricate all the moving surface in the engine. Oil that's too hot will not provide the right film thickness and will start to oxidize above 240-250 degrees F. Oil that's too cold won't flow correctly and be too viscous to provide the proper film thickness to get into the bearing gaps for lubrication and cooling. So 'cooling' the engine oil with radiator coolant, in the 180-215 degree F range keeps the engine oil at the correct temperature. See the link below to fully understand what I very briefly explained and Ross alluded to in his response.

Motor Oil 101 - Chapter One - Operating Temperatures and Viscosity - Bob is the Oil Guy

Chapter One Understanding what viscosity grades mean can be confusing. The average driver just tries to follow what is in the owner’s manual – this is a good practice. Some owner’s manuals allow for different grades based on the predicted operating temperature. For example, they may specify a...

bobistheoilguy.com

 

[Fozda]

That's all fine and well but once you start racing you will definitely need an external cooler to help keep up with the heat you're making.

 

[Towerdog]

Engine oil has a specific temperature range to operate within so it is the correct viscosity and provides the proper film thickness to lubricate all the moving surface in the engine. Oil that's too hot will not provide the right film thickness and will start to oxidize above 240-250 degrees F. Oil that's too cold won't flow correctly and be too viscous to provide the proper film thickness to get into the bearing gaps for lubrication and cooling. So 'cooling' the engine oil with radiator coolant, in the 180-215 degree F range keeps the engine oil at the correct temperature. See the link below to fully understand what I very briefly explained and Ross alluded to in his response.

Motor Oil 101 - Chapter One - Operating Temperatures and Viscosity - Bob is the Oil Guy

Chapter One Understanding what viscosity grades mean can be confusing. The average driver just tries to follow what is in the owner’s manual – this is a good practice. Some owner’s manuals allow for different grades based on the predicted operating temperature. For example, they may specify a...

bobistheoilguy.com

Now it makes sense, Thank you

 

[ccannx]

The adapter is larger than a 1/2 in measurement, smaller than 1/2" internal hex plug and about the same size as a 3/4 bolt.....getting a crash course on American and European measurements.

A friend has a bolt measurement template, looks like m18 1.5

 

[Fozda]

Were you able to figure out what size fitting it requires? I'm now debating between putting the external cooler in and just using this port for the accusump. I don't need the external oil cooler for autocross but I'll want it once I start tracking the car so I'm having a hard time deciding which route is best.

 

[ccannx]

Were you able to figure out what size fitting it requires? I'm now debating between putting the external cooler in and just using this port for the accusump. I don't need the external oil cooler for autocross but I'll want it once I start tracking the car so I'm having a hard time deciding which route is best.

Waiting on an m18 x1.5 to 10an fitting from brown Santa.

If the stock cooler keeps the oil in the temperature sweet spot I don't see a need for a different one. The extra capacity from the Accusump will probably help regulate the oil Temps also.

 

[Fozda]

Waiting on an m18 x1.5 to 10an fitting from brown Santa.

If the stock cooler keeps the oil in the temperature sweet spot I don't see a need for a different one. The extra capacity from the Accusump will probably help regulate the oil Temps also.

My other car would hit about 295 degrees of oil temp on the track before I'd have to pull off and that was with a big external cooler right out front so I'm a little worried about oil temps once I start tracking the car. I'm not sure how efficient the stock cooler is when you're givin it the sauce for a fair amount of time.

 

[Gtstorey]

Do any of the Ecotec actually measure oil temp or is it calculated by the ECU? My experience is with the 5th gen Camaro LS3/L99 engines and they don't actually measure temp. I don't remember an oil temperature sensor when I rebuilt my engine harness for my LNF.

 

[ccannx]

Still waiting on the m18 1.5 to 10AN fitting. I got the Accusump mounted to the rear firewall area. Utilizing part of the frame and welding a 1 inch strip of 1/4 steel the clamps lined up well with the outer edges. The bottom lines up with the LSJ oil pressure housing a 90 should get me the right angle....

 

[ATMironov]

Subscribed

 

[Fozda]

Still waiting on the m18 1.5 to 10AN fitting. I got the Accusump mounted to the rear firewall area. Utilizing part of the frame and welding a 1 inch strip of 1/4 steel the clamps lined up well with the outer edges. The bottom lines up with the LSJ oil pressure housing a 90 should get me the right angle....

Looks good! I think I figured out where to mount and it's pretty close to where you have yours. Let me know if that fitting works when it shows up cause I've decided I'd rather not run an external oil cooler for now.

 

[ccannx]

Still waiting on that fitting, must have been lost in the Christmess. Ordered another that should be here wednesday.

Got lucky and my wife scored me a small spool of cable in the Home depot parking lot. The positive for the electronic valve kit was a couple feet shy of making it to the dash switch.

Ran one leg from the valve to ground and the other goes to the pressure switch. The other side of the pressure switch goes to the dash for manual cutoff and from the dash button to Acc positive.

Ran the wire through the center tunnel still need to wire in the dash switch and make the 10 AN line to the LSJ oil pressure housing.

 

[Fozda]

I'm not running a pressure switch and I think I'll probably just wire it to a switched hot wire in the rear so that when the ignition is switched on it opens the valve to pre-oil and then it'll close before the engine stops running when the ignition is switched off.

 

[ccannx]

Got the adapter (m18x1.6 to 10An)today and made the 10AN hose. Ran a 90 at the oil housing side it was a tight fit just had to put the fitting on first.

 

[Ross]

It is looking very nice, Chris.
So how does the oil flow in your engine?
1. It starts at the sump pump.
2. goes thru a check valve?
3. then splits, to 3A: your Accusump electric valve, then oil accumulator,
3b. to the oil filter?
4. then on to lubricate the whole engine

 

[ccannx]

It is looking very nice, Chris.
So how does the oil flow in your engine?
1. It starts at the sump pump.
2. goes thru a check valve?
3. then splits, to 3A: your Accusump electric valve, then oil accumulator,
3b. to the oil filter?
4. then on to lubricate the whole engine

Copied from HHR forums : Oil is applied under pressure to the crankshaft, connecting rods, balance shaft assembly, camshaft bearing surfaces, valve lash adjusters and timing chain hydraulic tensioner. All other moving parts are lubricated by gravity flow or splash.

Oil enters the gerotor type oil pump through a fixed inlet screen. The oil pump is driven by the crankshaft. The oil pump body is within the engine front cover. The pressurized oil from the pump passes through the oil filter. The oil filter is located on the right (front) side of the engine block. The oil filter is housed in a casting that is integrated with the engine block. The oil filter is a disposable cartridge type. A by-pass valve in the filter cap allows continuous oil flow in case the oil filter should become restricted. Oil then enters the gallery where it is distributed to the balance shafts, crankshaft, camshafts and camshaft timing chain oiler nozzle. The connecting rod bearings are oiled by constant oil flow passages through the crankshaft connecting the main journals to the rod journals. A groove around each upper main bearing furnishes oil to the drilled crankshaft passages. The pressurized oil passes through the cylinder head restrictor orifice into the cylinder head and then into each camshaft feed gallery. Cast passages feed each hydraulic element adjuster and drilled passages feed each camshaft bearing surface. An engine oil pressure switch or sensor is installed at the end. Oil returns to the oil pan through passages cast into the cylinder head. The timing chain lubrication drains directly into the oil pan.

This setup will put oil pressure on the pump side of the filter. Oil coming out will pressurize the oil filter housing and supply up to 3 quarts of oil. Is it overkill, probably but I did lose a motor so if this helps me not have to drop another motor I'm game.

 

[Ross]

So there is no check valve in the pressurized oil system.
When your pump is sucking air (long race corner at high G forces)
then the Accusump system comes to the rescue and supplies pressurized oil.

But it flows pressurized oil into the oil filter, which then will flow 2 directions, thru the engine and back to the oil pump.
I guess the pump will stop the oil from free flowing into the oil pan, so it will kind of act like a check valve.

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Question: where in the flow does the oil go through the oil cooler? Is it before or after the oil filter - since I'm assuming the oil sent to the filter is also the same boss as the cooler on the engine?

 

[ccannx]

There is a valve in the LSJ oil pressure housing that appears to bypass the oil cooler Im not 100% sure how it works. Haven't found any info on it yet. It appears to be unique to the LSJ.