The shifter gets mounted in the opposite direction than it's intended to mount so the cable holders end up pointing back. I'll be hooking it to the reversers just like the stock shifter.So the shift cable will directly attach to the new shifter? No reversers needed?
Correct, I'm talking about the cable mounts built into the billet shifter unit. They hang off the base to the rear by a few inches and it's not utilized since the cables in the car are supported by the tunnel cap so I'm going to cut it shorter.If you are using the reverser, then you will need the tunnel cable mounting points, right?
Yeah, you can get a quarter to a half inch but the shifter sits about 2.5" or so further forward than the stock shifter. A new base plate would he fantastic! I wish I had those capabilities!I like where your going with this.
It looks like you could also gain a little rearward movement here if they're not slide all the way back already.
If someone could do it affordably it'd be nice, I have a feeling blocks to replace the spacers to just move the shifter back as-is will be the best bet, can probably be done for $20-40 plus cost of materials I bet. Compared to miling a baseplate which would likely cost more than the entire shifter Sadly. I do have access to a full axis cnc through a friend, but like I said I was told cost would be significant in comparison to just using adapter blocks. After someone has a pattern made to size I can email it to him and ask if he could get us a price for a few plates made. Maybe as a group buy it wouldn't be as significant of a bill.Yeah, you can get a quarter to a half inch but the shifter sits about 2.5" or so further forward than the stock shifter. A new base plate would he fantastic! I wish I had those capabilities!
One thing I was looking at was the balls on the ends. Do they attach to the stock connectors? Mine is still together so I couldn’t tell for sure.This is what I have so far. I was able to move it back about an inch and a half before the baseplate ran into the seats but the spacers also allowed me to offset it so that I could tuck the risers in between the seats and then move them back another inch of so. Now I just need to pull it all apart, smooth out the edges of the spacers, give them some paint or powder, and put it all back together so that I can do a final adjustment of the rods.
View attachment 19429
This is what I came up with for connectors. I couldn't seem to get the stock connectors to work well in stock form. Instead of a ball I just bolted the side motion connector straight to the lever. The balls on the other end of the rods have more than enough articulation with this setup.One thing I was looking at was the balls on the ends. Do they attach to the stock connectors? Mine is still together so I couldn’t tell for sure.
This looks really good, but maybe give it a little more length in the smaller adjustment holes? Just for people with different seat choices. Try to make it as universal as possible for all use cases.Working on a bottom plate for this guy. Rather than adapters to shift it backwards I might be able to get a new plate made that would match up to our cars and shift it back..
I’m going to cut out a test piece on Monday from MDF.
This looks really good, but maybe give it a little more length in the smaller adjustment holes? Just for people with different seat choices. Try to make it as universal as possible for all use cases.
I have 2x 18.5" kirkeys which sit really close together personally on my car so I have no idea how this will fit until it comes.