V1 Brian's City Goblin-06/Crate MotorTC #61

[Brian74]

I ended up making a dry box that will hold 4 spools. You can also feed directly from the box without removing the spools so they always stay in the controlled environment. Here is a link to the one I made.

The Ultimate Spool Holder Dry Box by ritchrock

I've been using TUSH (The Ultimate Spool Holder) with great success and wanted to make a dry box around that concept. I also wanted to minimize the number of holes put into the sealed container.I found the "Hefty 20qt Filament Box" project and decided to remix it for the Sterlite Gasket Box...

www.thingiverse.com

Do you know which hot end you're thinking of upgrading to? I went with a Dragon hotend and it's been great for everything I've done. If I had to get another and was willing to spend the money I'd probably get a mosquito.

I made a couple of dry boxes myself. I use the rubbermaid 22 cup storage containers as I’m printing in an enclosure with limited space.

I will be upgrading to the Micro Swiss, with exoslides and a silicone bed heater from Gulfcoast Robotics.

 

[Brian74]

Worked up some designs on my courtesy light. Prototype is done and meets my needs perfectly. Playing with various logo ideas for the wiring retainer piece.

 

[Brian74]

I do not like the idea of riveting or screwing the side panels into the roll cage as I prefer a nice flush-mounted, flat appearance. It makes vinyl wrapping much easier as well. I could not find a viable solution anywhere on the retail market.

I’m going to work past this clamp design I did for the side courtesy lamps and incorporate this into a kit to mount the aluminum side panels. The side panels will be able to be removed and installed in seconds and the clamps will be neatly reinforced with zip ties.

I will use epoxy-mounted plates and standoffs to mount the clamps, with the lower clamps indexed to the side panels to simplify installation alignment. I’m currently designing the brackets on CAD.

I am also looking at purchasing another FDM printer with a much larger bed. This will allow for quickly printing large, very strong (ASA) parts using a bigger nozzle with dedicated printing parameters and layer height in a heat controlled environment.

 

[DCMoney]

Have you considered prototyping with your current printer and just outsourcing the final print in the material/process you want? Can be really cheap nowadays with people offering these services all over.

 

[Brian74]

Have you considered prototyping with your current printer and just outsourcing the final print in the material/process you want? Can be really cheap nowadays with people offering these services all over.

Depends on how many I’ll need in the end, as obviously parts are cheaper in quantity. All this stuff needs to be tested on the car as well and revised until a solid final design is made.

After all the printing I’ve done with this current printer, I’m finding that it would be much easier to have a separate printer dedicated strictly to printing the bigger parts. Main reason being nozzle/filament changes, bed height/ layer adjustments and slicer settings are a huge time-consuming pain in the ass. The other printer could be set up for one purpose in a heat controlled environment and then left alone to do its thing, while the smaller printer would be more for the prototype and small detail work.

 

[Rauq]

I do not like the idea of riveting or screwing the side panels into the roll cage as I prefer a nice flush-mounted, flat appearance. It makes vinyl wrapping much easier as well. I could not find a viable solution anywhere on the retail market.

I’m going to work past this clamp design I did for the side courtesy lamps and incorporate this into a kit to mount the aluminum side panels. The side panels will be able to be removed and installed in seconds and the clamps will be neatly reinforced with zip ties.

I will use epoxy-mounted plates and standoffs to mount the clamps, with the lower clamps indexed to the side panels to simplify installation alignment. I’m currently designing the brackets on CAD.

I'll be following this closely. I riveted my panels on, but if they ever come off, I don't think I'd rivet them again.

 

[Waterdriver]

I do not like the idea of riveting or screwing the side panels into the roll cage as I prefer a nice flush-mounted, flat appearance. It makes vinyl wrapping much easier as well. I could not find a viable solution anywhere on the retail market.

I’m going to work past this clamp design I did for the side courtesy lamps and incorporate this into a kit to mount the aluminum side panels. The side panels will be able to be removed and installed in seconds and the clamps will be neatly reinforced with zip ties.

I will use epoxy-mounted plates and standoffs to mount the clamps, with the lower clamps indexed to the side panels to simplify installation alignment. I’m currently designing the brackets on CAD.

I am also looking at purchasing another FDM printer with a much larger bed. This will allow for quickly printing large, very strong (ASA) parts using a bigger nozzle with dedicated printing parameters and layer height in a heat controlled environment.

View attachment 27087

Are you thinking something like these?

 

[Brian74]

First rough prototype printed. Fits perfectly. These will work well.

 

[Rauq]

I've not worked with ASA at all- I started with PLA and am now working on dialing in PETG. With that in mind, I'm thinking about Z-axis strength: would this part be better printed laying on its side? The panel-side would have to be clocked 90 degrees from its current orientation but then it could be printed basically with the tube aligned with the Z-axis of the print. Or is ASA really that much better with layer adhesion? I have seen how PETG layer adhesion is better than PLA (at least in my experience) so it's believable.

Are the holes on the panel side to increase epoxy surface area, or for a pseudo-infill print strength?

 

[Brian74]

I've not worked with ASA at all- I started with PLA and am now working on dialing in PETG. With that in mind, I'm thinking about Z-axis strength: would this part be better printed laying on its side? The panel-side would have to be clocked 90 degrees from its current orientation but then it could be printed basically with the tube aligned with the Z-axis of the print. Or is ASA really that much better with layer adhesion? I have seen how PETG layer adhesion is better than PLA (at least in my experience) so it's believable.

Are the holes on the panel side to increase epoxy surface area, or for a pseudo-infill print strength?

I would probably print with the side orientation at 90 degrees for better lengthwise layer strength; I am debating on making it a two piece assembly with adjustable rotation for future project compatibility. Honestly, this prototype piece is very strong as it is. If you think of what little weight it will be supporting, its not required to be that robust. It also has channel thru-tabs to fasten two zip-ties.

I may design this as a full kit with self-aligning corner index tabs for very easy installation.

Yes, the holes are to promote adhesion for the epoxy between the aluminum and the mount flange.

 

[Brian74]

Here is another one I printed 90 degrees off the z axis at .4mm layer height in PETG. The PETG really prints well with a .8 nozzle at .4 layer height. This will work well for the 1” tube mounts. I will start designing the lower and upper support brackets.

.

 

[Brian74]

I sat down and brainstormed today and finished the basic side panel clamps. This looks like it will work great.

I implemented alignment tabs for the upper and lower clamps that provide for a cleanly lined up panel with no guesswork. Simply mark the install point, line the alignment tab up to the edge of the panel, and epoxy the clamp to the side panel. Once the epoxy dries, the alignment tabs can simply be broken off. This provides plenty of overlap room for vinyl wrap and makes for a nice clean look.

The upper clamps are set up to provide a clean gap between the frame with no metal to metal contact. The middle and lower clamps are secured with two zip ties each. Side panel can be removed and installed in minutes. Will print the final product in ASA.

 

[jayrolls]

I sat down and brainstormed today and finished the basic side panel clamps. This looks like it will work great.

I implemented alignment tabs for the upper and lower clamps that provide for a cleanly lined up panel with no guesswork. Simply mark the install point, line the alignment tab up to the edge of the panel, and epoxy the clamp to the side panel. Once the epoxy dries, the alignment tabs can simply be broken off. This provides plenty of overlap room for vinyl wrap and makes for a nice clean look.

The upper clamps are set up to provide a clean gap between the frame with no metal to metal contact. The middle and lower clamps are secured with two zip ties each. Side panel can be removed and installed in minutes. Will print the final product in ASA.

View attachment 27147View attachment 27148View attachment 27149View attachment 27150View attachment 27151

Looks awesome, are you going to post the file or would you be willing to sell a set? Living in FL the idea of easy removal seems like a great idea.
jay

 

[Rauq]

Absolutely doing this if/when the time comes to pull my riveted side panels off. Do you have any particular type of epoxy picked out for compatibility between ASA and aluminum? Or am I over-thinking things...

 

[Brian74]

Looks awesome, are you going to post the file or would you be willing to sell a set? Living in FL the idea of easy removal seems like a great idea.
jay

Not sure yet. Still need to fully iron out fit, determine mounting points, and fully test it.

 

[Brian74]

Absolutely doing this if/when the time comes to pull my riveted side panels off. Do you have any particular type of epoxy picked out for compatibility between ASA and aluminum? Or am I over-thinking things...

I ordered 3M panel adhesive. I doubt ASA will have any issues with it. Seems to be quality stuff. Pricey though.

 

[Brian74]

One piece, snap on wire loom retaining clip I quickly drew up on the CAD, just to experiment with shapes. Logo is for a local sandrail builder. I need a DF Goblin Logo that is more compact. Does anyone have anything? I guess I could just use the “DF” part from the regular logo.

 

[Brian74]

Its finally cooling off! I’m getting the garage straightened out. Ordered bulk electrical terminals and just bought 180 lbs of grade 2 & grade 8 fasteners in every length from TSC. It will be soooo nice to finally have bench stock; I hate having to stop work to make an hoir long round trip to the **** hardware store.

Working on some parts organizers. Came up with a cool design idea and an going to talk to a patent attorney about it this week along with another design I’m making for a friend.

Hoping to get this Goblin done by next summer.

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Dang, that's a lot of hardware! Just how many Goblins are you planning to build - two's the limit so far - but DF is working on three at once!

 

[Gtstorey]

Lat summer I spent several hour digging through Grainger's online clearance listing for their fasteners and while I probably didn't buy 180 lbs, I bought a lot at pennies on the dollar. A lot of metric stuff and a lot of stainless included. It's came in very handy while building the Goblin. I only reused a few of the specialty fasteners from my donor.