V1 ccgillett's Track Goblin - '08 SS/TC

[ccgillett]

If I understand where you are talking about, the wires are attached to a map sensor, sometimes called the boost sensor. Should have came with your donor.
2009 CHEVROLET COBALT 2.0L L4 Turbocharged Manifold Pressure (MAP) Sensor | RockAuto

I think the other hose is a pressure/vacuum source and attaches to a barbed fitting that came with the kit on the intake pipe. I don't remember where other end attaches.

I think you're right....I'm looking for the pipe that can accept that sensor and hose connection. My kit came with lots of pretty silver piping for intercooling, but nothing like that. The donor was done before I bought the car, I'll look through the boxes of parts that came from the donor to see if anything is there.

 

[Zoom Zoom]

Folks, the pipe in the lower right of the photo (with the small hose and wiring attached)...I know it's part of the intake, but what are the small hose/wires for? I went through all the pieces/parts that came with my kit and it wasn't included. I'm looking to understand the part and figure out the part number/vendor so I can order it. Any help appreciated!
View attachment 27250

If I understand where you are talking about, the wires are attached to a map sensor, sometimes called the boost sensor. Should have came with your donor.
2009 CHEVROLET COBALT 2.0L L4 Turbocharged Manifold Pressure (MAP) Sensor | RockAuto

I think the other hose is a pressure/vacuum source and attaches to a barbed fitting that came with the kit on the intake pipe. I don't remember where other end attaches.
[/QUOT

 

[Gtstorey]

The silver pipe should have been part of the kit from DF.

 

[ccgillett]

Those are super helpful....still looking to understand the pipe itself - with the welded "rectangle" where the fittings attach and where I migth get one.

Thank you for those photos - very much appreciated!

 

[Gtstorey]

If you want to fab your own pipe, I think this might work;
MAP Sensor Mounting Bracket / Mounting Block - Bosch - VaporWorx
I would just source it from DF.................

 

[Gtstorey]

A couple of more options
3 Bar MAP Sensor Billet Mount — Raceart
DHD 007-6277N MAP Sensor - Weld On Bung (dirtyhookerdiesel.com)

 

[ccgillett]

@Gtstorey thank you for the links - I am going to start with DF and see if I can source the bits from them. I don't know how to weld, so I'd need to hire the work out. I have a couple guys who I've with before who could help, but they're (for good reasons) very expensive. Probably be cheaper to just buy the pieces.

Guessing the reason i don't have his is because it's an older chassis, and the first Goblin kits include air-to-air intercooling. When I bought the build-in-progress it came with 3 a2a intercoolers - the stock one from the donor, a similar looking one from DF, and one from CX Racing that would go well on the rear of the car. Since I moved to air-to-water I don't think I'll need these - but I'll hang onto the new ones just in case. The stock one I'll probably give away on one of the LNF/Ecotec forums.

 

[Gtstorey]

Another option to welding might be a good high strength epoxy

 

[ccgillett]

So it's been a slow month for building cars and doing garage stuff. I did, however, learn a lot about the intercooler plumbing and bits that came with my car. My chassis is one of the first - #13 - and when it was delivered DF still hadn't sorted out their approach for turbocharging and intercooling yet. So the original owner decided to engineer his own. So all of the bits I have for a2a intercooling were sourced by the original owner - that's why they don't at all resemble what DF sources now.

Once I figured that out (thanks Adam!) I ordered the bits I need from the Stage 2 TC BOM. Word came today that the order just shipped from DF and will be here shortly. The work to complete the intercooling looks straightforward so hopefully I can get it on the car soon. Thanks to Adam and Kimberly at DF for all their efforts to source the stuff I need - brackets, fasteners, piping, MAF bits, etc. It all makes much more sense now.

I'm procrastinating on installing the new rear coilovers. I've never installed a set before - always had help or had a shop do them in other cars - so I am weirdly nervous about digging into it. It isn't THAT hard, right?

 

[Rttoys]

I'm procrastinating on installing the new rear coilovers. I've never installed a set before - always had help or had a shop do them in other cars - so I am weirdly nervous about digging into it. It isn't THAT hard, right?

On a beer scale of 1to 5, it barely registers a 1. Those are not like normal struts where you need a spring compressor and such. These you run the spring adjuster all the way down, put the spring and mount on and tighten it all down, then bring up the adjuster.

To set height, just unscrew the base of the strut as instructed and put it on.

 

[ccgillett]

On a beer scale of 1to 5, it barely registers a 1. Those are not like normal struts where you need a spring compressor and such. These you run the spring adjuster all the way down, put the spring and mount on and tighten it all down, then bring up the adjuster.

To set height, just unscrew the base of the strut as instructed and put it on.

Beer scale FTW!

 

[G Atsma]

Beer scale FTW!

I think all aftermarket parts need this on their packaging. Then we KNOW.... LOL

 

[ccgillett]

DF rear coil overs with hardware

Do you know the bolt spec that you used for these? The mounting holes all appear to be 5/16", which if tapped would accept a 3/8-16 bolt. Or if untapped I could fit a 1/4" bolt. The reason I'm puzzled is that there's a bag labeled from DF "Rear strut mount hardware" and contains 3/8-16 nylok nuts (no bolts) and 3/8 washers.

I have 3/8-16 Grade 8 bolts that will work with those nuts, but they're not gonna fit unless I either enlarge the hole or tap it. Presumably there's no intent that the holes be tapped. I also have 1/4-16 Grade 8 nuts and bolts that will fit without any drilling or tapping, but that doesn't like up with any of the parts in the DF-supplied hardware.

I don't want to make a mistake here because the consequences of suspension failure at speed are massive.

 

[Gtstorey]

Not sure if something changed on what DF is sending out, but I would bet the bolts are in the lines marked out. 3/8-16x1.5” are what came with mine.

 

[Lonny]

Message [email protected] Monday. I have no idea why that bag was packed that way, it should have had 3/8-16 bolts in the bag.

 

[ccgillett]

Message [email protected] Monday. I have no idea why that bag was packed that way, it should have had 3/8-16 bolts in the bag.

I have Grade 8 3/8-16x1.5 bolts as my local hardware store carries them. They don't seem to want to fit the 5/16" holes easily. Could that be due to powder coating, or should I just tap the frame holes with a 5/16-16 tap?

 

[r3drckt]

It’s most definitely due to powder coat why the 3/8 bolts don’t fit nicely but the 5/16 does. That’s a difference of 1/16 you’re talking about. This is also why some people chase threads post powder coating with a tap set. You could probably use a good 3/8 drill bit and clean up the powder in that hole, but be careful the bit doesn’t travel as you try and drill it out (read drill slow and steady, not max speed)

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Use a tap to clean the coating out of the thread grooves. A drill bit does not chase the threads, only removes the tops of the threads and damages them.

 

[r3drckt]

Use a tap to clean the coating out of the thread grooves. A drill bit does not chase the threads, only removes the tops of the threads and damages them.

Didn't think those plates were threaded since nyloks were provided

 

[ccgillett]

Didn't think those plates were threaded since nyloks were provided

Right, this the rear suspension mount holes on the frame and the holes in the triangular plates. At least on my early chassis these are not threaded