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V1 Chubbs' extended track build #300, 2007 SS/SC donor

Chubbs

Well-Known Member
C
I'm a few weeks late starting the build log, as I wasn't sure if I was going to do one or not. I decided I needed a repository of sorts to remember what I did and keep track of the progress. So I guess this is as much for me as for anyone else. Bear with me as I figure out this forum and all the file attachments.

I intended for this car to be a more agressive replacement for my Boxster, which sees a lot of autocross time, and a track day here and there. I'm envisioning about 30% track time, 30% autox time, and 40% weekend street use. In reality, i doubt it will actually be that much autox and track time, but that's my hope. Probably 5-6 autox events per year, and 2-3 track days. Maybe more if i'm lucky.

Donor was a 2007 SS/SC that had been rolled. I'm not going to say what I spent on it for reasons....but it was less than $2k. Seem high? That's because it has a new short block in it. Apparently, the kid I bought it from blew up the motor (more on that in a minute). He put a brand new short block in it, drove it for about 5k miles, then rolled it. As the story goes, he came around a sweeping highway corner, was blinded by oncoming headlights at night, and dropped the right wheels off the road. He overcorrected to get back on the road, and ended up coming across both lanes and into the left hand ditch, where it flipped. It actually landed on the wheels, and he drove it home. The car still runs/drives fine, though it pulls to the right pretty hard due to a bent tie rod. The guy wanted $3500, which was lunacy for a crashed cobalt, but I still thought the new motor was worth a price premium.

As a bonus, it has a clear title. He had liability coverage on it, so insurance never totaled it out. I doubt I need a clean title for a goblin build, but this car has one.
 

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C
As for the rollover story, I believe it. I investigate vehicle accidents for a living, so I have tools to download the airbag module. The data didn't give speed info for some reason, but it did show light throttle application and a typical cruising RPM. I've attached the data for those curious (once I bought the car, it became "My" data, so I don't think there is a problem posting it.)

And for those of you wondering, your daily driver cars likely store such information too. Don't lie to insurance companies. They call me and I find stuff out :)
 

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C
The donor is already stripped. While removing the carpet, I found the attached "tool" under it. DOes anyone know what it is? It looks like an assembly tool of some kind, but I have no idea what it would be for.
 

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C
The engine came out the bottom, no hoist required. For anyone that doesn't have a lift, I highly recommend it. for about $1500, you never have to work on your back again.
 

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C
Looking at the engine, the block and head are shiny and new (combined with some soil from the rollover), so again, the story checks out. Compression is excellent, better than 200psi on all cylinders.

the car had Exedy clutch decals all over it, and the seller mentioned the clutch was replaced when the engine was replaced. Turns out, that was correct too. I don't recognize if the clutch is an exedy or not, but I don't really care. It looks new, with a new throwout bearing as well.
 

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C
I forgot to mention earlier, the mods list. It appears to have an OTTP 2.8" pulley on it, with 60# injectors, and a cold air intake. As far as I can tell, the ECM has NOT been tuned, and the car ran like crap. I think the logic was "stuff more air in it, add more fuel, it will equal out". It didn't equal out. At one point, it refused to idle at all, which I eventually traced back to the MAF. in most cars, when you disconnect the MAF the ECm just reverts to the factory fuel tables and it runs ok. But here, the factory fuel tables were so far out of whack, the engine was drowning in fuel from those big injectors.

Hopefully a tune will straighten it all out.
 
C
Wire harness fun. Not much to talk about here. When I first shopped for a goblin, I thought $900+ for the wire harness rework was robbery. Now that I've done it, it seems like it's a bargain. I'm pretty good with electrical stuff, and I probably have 30+ hours in that wire harness. Do the math on that, and that's about $30/hr. Seems like a very fair price to pay for a correctly reworked harness if you weren't sure what you were doing.
 

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C
The donor is totally stripped, the harness is complete. Next it's time to start cleaning things up and making them pretty.

The chassis color is going to be a military spec yellow, which from what I've heard, is "blue angles yellow". I "chose" that color because I happen to have a couple of gallons laying around from a craiglist deal. That, and it's high grade paint with pretty good impact and chemical resistance, which should make it perfect for a tube frame chassis.

I started with the valve cover, supercharger, and intercoolor, because they were all pitted and ugly from years of use. In hindsight, I think it's too much yellow, but it's too late now. After I put the coil packs and the cover back on, maybe it will break it up a little bit.

For what it's worth, no, I don't have a thing for yellow cars (which is hard to say from the boxster, the cobalt, and now the chassis paint). It's just coincidence. Apparently, all the cheapest cars are yellow in color so I get bargains on them.
 

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Ark :D
Welcome. The forum is a great resource, so starting a build log where you can ask questions and get support from the knowledgeable folks here will be a boon to you if you have problems.
 
ctuinstra
Looks like the perfect donor. With a new block and at that price, you got a great deal. Sell a few parts and it’s even better!

Funny about the upgrades and tune. That seems so common and familiar. When you are to that point, hit us up. Some of us are pretty good at helping with the tuning. There is a forum section about it under Engine.

Welcome to the forum!
 
C
I picked up my kit in Dallas a couple weeks ago, and construction has started. I planned on making another series of posts documenting the build, but I find myself in a pickle, and could use some help.

My clutch pedal doesn't seem to fit. It's as if the bracket is too long, and the hole for the pivot point of the clutch pedal is drilled in the wrong place. See pictures. At first glance it seems to fit, but the bolt holes don't line up for the front bracket because the clutch pedal bracket interferes with the bracket on the chassis. Worse, the clutch pedal itself interferes with the steering shaft, so you can't push on it. Am I doing something wrong?

I've tried installing it a couple different ways, with the clutch pedal bracket in front of the chassis bracket, and behind the bracket. Each seems to have its own unique set of problems that results in it not fitting.


Suggestions?
 

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R
I believe the clutch pedal hitting the steering shaft is a known issue. The clutch pedal has to be shaved in that area to clear. Same thing on the firewall area where the steering shaft makes contact.
 
Ross
I just bent the clutch mount on the frame a little. Shaved a little off the plastic pedal shaft - where the clutch switch contacts.
 
C
I believe the clutch pedal hitting the steering shaft is a known issue. The clutch pedal has to be shaved in that area to clear. Same thing on the firewall area where the steering shaft makes contact.


Thanks for the quick reply. After a little deeper searching I was able to find a couple photos showing the correct way to mount it. I had it right, there is just interference as you said.

After some perseverance, I was able to grind the clutch bracket down so it could be mounted correctly. As for the steering shaft, I just shoved the clutch pedal to the side and bent the bracket slightly. There is now about a thousandth of an inch clearance, which is enough.
 

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C
Good progress over the weekend. The engine is essentially ready to go in, but I'm held up by the fuel tank. Specifically, whether to paint the fuel tank or not. I wanted to leave it raw aluminum, but it has a few scratches and scrapes on it, and I don't like the idea of having to put wax or some sort of protective coating on it every year.

So, I'm going to paint it. By the time the painting is done and dry enough to actually install the thing, it will probably be another week before any further progress is made.

I've made one alteration from the build videos so far, and that's the vacuum connection to the brake booster. I hated the idea of the hose inside another hose. It probably works just fine, but I doubt that meets any automotive, aviation, or any other standard in the engineering world. So I rigged up a barbed fitting and a 3/8 inch push to connect fitting, all available from Lowe's. It cost a ridiculous $20, but I feel better about it's security. 120 mph into turn one at heartland Park Topeka is no place to realize your brake booster vacuum line came loose.
 

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C
I have a quick question about the front suspension spindles, or uprights, whatever you want to call them. I do not have the fancy machined aluminum pieces that attach the spindle to the suspension arms, as shown in the videos. I have these ugly steel pieces, that I have since painted the color of aluminum.

My question is, how do they go on? Do they bolt from the inside out, or from the outside in? The answer is going to move the pivot point for the spindle by a substantial amount. See the photos, hopefully what I'm saying makes sense. Which phototl should it be? Should the top and bottom mount be the same, or bolt on from different directions?
 

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JBINTX
I have a quick question about the front suspension spindles, or uprights, whatever you want to call them. I do not have the fancy machined aluminum pieces that attach the spindle to the suspension arms, as shown in the videos. I have these ugly steel pieces, that I have since painted the color of aluminum.

My question is, how do they go on? Do they bolt from the inside out, or from the outside in? The answer is going to move the pivot point for the spindle by a substantial amount. See the photos, hopefully what I'm saying makes sense. Which phototl should it be? Should the top and bottom mount be the same, or bolt on from different directions?
 
C
Wow, those are helpful. Thank you.

After watching the videos about a hundred more times, I was able to figure out what they were doing with the offsets. I got mine assembled, and according to the pictures, it looks like I got it right.
 

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