V1 Drilling above oil pan for 2.2 Turbo Drain port

[David]

Well I guess its a good thing Took the drain line apart. It was melted thru and all cracked.

 

[Rauq]

ZZP's LSJ turbo oil feed and drain kit comes with a 3/8 NPT threaded barb for the turbo oil drain and is what I'm running, fwiw

 

[David]

ZZP's LSJ turbo oil feed and drain kit comes with a 3/8 NPT threaded barb for the turbo oil drain and is what I'm running, fwiw

This is what looks like I got bit the previous owner didn't use the barb.

 

[David]

@Ross im in the process of drilling out the Girdle and had a question. I have drilled as far before my drill bit broke snice looks like the end is not solid and it caught the corner and snapped. My question is, should I get another drill bit and see if i can drill further which looks difficult due to me sticking my pinky and feeling the walls in an angle? Or leave it as is and its plenty to drain?

 

[Ross]

It does look like a large enough hole to me. You could use a round file, or a burr on a rotary tool to round off some of the sharp edges.
Did you run a tap thru it? My drilling didn't get the hole completely round either. I also had the drill bit start slapping when drilling a partial hole.

 

[David]

It does look like a large enough hole to me. You could use a round file, or a burr on a rotary tool to round off some of the sharp edges.
Did you run a tap thru it? My drilling didn't get the hole completely round either. I also had the drill bit start slapping when drilling a partial hole.

Didn't do the tap yet as I wasn't sure if i should try and tackle the rest. I didn't pull the pan and really didn't want to mess with it. As im not sure if its an easy drop.

 

[Ross]

I think the oil pan is easy. Just bolts and RTV sealant. Besides, if it is full of aluminum chips, it isn't really a choice now.

 

[David]

I think the oil pan is easy. Just bolts and RTV sealant. Besides, if it is full of aluminum chips, it isn't really a choice now.

Its not full I used grease and vacuum. The oil didn't have no shaving. I guess its safer to pull it and be positive. Is the subframe in the way to drop the pan?

 

[Ross]

My oil pan is about 1" over top of the passenger side of the Chevy Cobalt subframe. The other 3 sides of the oil pan are free.

 

[Rauq]

Even if you didn't get any metal in the pan drilling the hole, I'd be impressed if you could tap it without getting metal in the pan. I was able to pull my LSJ pan while still in the Goblin with the Cobalt subframe, nothing was loosened to get it in or out. It's a bit laborious to figure out the right wiggle pattern but all it's going to cost is time and a tube of RTV. Pulling the pan is the right thing to do.

If you look at your turbo oil drain fitting, is the internal area of the fitting greater than or less than the hole you're looking at in the block now? If the ID of the fitting is smaller it's probably fine, but I personally wouldn't want to wonder if that were causing me problems down the road, so I'd pick up another drill bit and finish the job.

 

[Robinjo]

Its not full I used grease and vacuum. The oil didn't have no shaving. I guess its safer to pull it and be positive. Is the subframe in the way to drop the pan?

You still have chips in the pan. No way that it didn't get some down there. Do you want to pull the pan and be sure or risk a metal chip getting lodged into a rod bearing?
The pan is definitely easier to do with the subframe out of the way. If you don't the passenger side tries to interfere. It can be done, it's just a little trickier.

 

[Gtstorey]

You could run a gallon of gas through the hole followed by a few quarts of cheap oil and be fairly safe, but not 100%.

 

[David]

Yes you guys are correct, I'll be pulling the pan to be one hundred percent safe. Just didn't want to deal with the subframe.So hopefully I could do it without removing the subframe.

 

[Robinjo]

Dropping the subframe is pretty easy

 

[David]

Ok I listened and dropped the pan. Now that I have the pan out its like everything else. Snice im in here what can I do .

I read mixed opinions on LSJ pans. Is there baffles that can be installed or a better pan? I know there is an aftermarket pan that doesn't fit due to size.

 

[Ross]

Nice chip collection. I would have guessed you got most of it using grease and a vacuum. I guessed wrong.
Skip the "while you're there". Thread the turbo drain hole, clean it, RTV it, and install it. Get that thing on the road, drive it, and learn what it needs next. My guess would be suspension adjustments, and sticky tires.
Alternatively, you could do forged connecting rods, forged pistons, while you're there, cams, valvetrain.... etc.

 

[David]

Nice chip collection. I would have guessed you got most of it using grease and a vacuum. I guessed wrong.
Skip the "while you're there". Thread the turbo drain hole, clean it, RTV it, and install it. Get that thing on the road, drive it, and learn what it needs next. My guess would be suspension adjustments, and sticky tires.
Alternatively, you could do forged connecting rods, forged pistons, while you're there, cams, valvetrain.... etc.

Yea I most of that already I would like to know if anyone has done baffles or if its worth it. Also noticed a spot which looks to be used on other models. Maybe for an oil sensor of some sort? Like oil level im just guessing

 

[Ross]

That looks like the manufacturer drilled the hole for the oil suction port, then plugged the outside. I wouldn't put a sensor there, for fear it might leak air into the oil suction side of the oil pump.