V1 Fenix's Goblin #461 - 2010 Base Auto

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Mid-engine cars have the majority of weight over the rear tires and tend to naturally want to understeer - the front tires want to slide in a turn. Suspension tuning to optimize springs and rebound settings can help minimize the understeer. The simplist solution, all things being equal, to reduce understeer is to add a swaybar at the rear. Done in moderation - not going with too thick of a swaybar - can help balance the handling to a more neutral steering. But it is easy add too much rear swaybar and end up with oversteer - which can be outright dangerous in a mid engine car. This is just a high level explanation and, if you are wanting to try a rear swaybar, it is recommended the base Cobalt swaybar - which is an 18mm diameter, is what seems to be the common go-to solution.

 

[Ross]

I will have to research this then.. care to teach me the pros and cons?

An anti-sway bar will reduce body roll (sway) while cornering, keeping the tires flatter on the road.
With an adjustable link, you can balance the diagonal tire weights of your car.
A rear anti-sway bar will reduce traction on the rear tires, and increase traction on the front tires. So more steerage / a looser rear.
Front anti-sway bar will do the opposite.

 

[ah.b.normal]

I'm not tryin' ta hijack this thread; so I'll just add this one thing and mosey on down the road. Auto to manual on a goblin would probably be easiest with a stand alone trans computer. Trying to re-integrate the auto trans to any Goblin's functioning dash/BCM systems sounds like trouble with little to nothing to be gained in my opinion. BUT if your life pushes you to the situation of Automatic or Sell I'd put an Automatic in it because mid-engine cars are so much fun and You built it! Keep on Dreamin' Y'all!

 

[Fenix Nexen]

I just remembered that I ordered the rear coilover kit from DF, do they supply fronts or will i have to get my own?

 

[Gtstorey]

Fronts come with the kit.

 

[Fenix Nexen]

Took the frame and other things to powder coating. Lead time is 3 to 4 weeks. Following the donor disassembly videos I am at the part where the sub frame needs dropped. The right tie rod bolt is freely spinning and I squeezed grease out of the joint in order to free the nut. Will probably replace this. Added a pneumatic air tool to my collection and a new compressor. It's fun having an auto zone 5 minutes away. Will add a picture later maybe, very tired.

 

[Sluggonaut]

I picked up a 20v HF 1/2" impact for my disassembly and it was worth 10x the $90 I paid for it during the donor tear down.

I tore mine down at a storage shed so I didn't have air or electricity. It handled everything I thought I'd need my pneumatic impact for and then some.

 

[Fenix Nexen]

dropped the subframe finally, will see about cleaning up the steering rack shaft and joint later, the instructional video made it look easy but i had to whale on it to get it off

 

[Goblinfanclub1234]

my steering looked like that as well and the collapsible steering shaft was no longer collapsible. I had to get a new one. I will be surprised if your shaft can slide.

 

[Robinjo]

Mine didn’t look like that and I also couldn’t get the shaft to collapse.

 

[Fenix Nexen]

what upgrades should i do to the engine while i have it pulled out? its a 2.2 lap

 

[Rauq]

More maintenance than ugprades- Dorman timing chain guide bolt and a new timing chain tensioner. The guide bolt is an improved design over OE and any tensioner you find now should be GM's latest improved revision. Both have been problematic in the past.

If you're feeling more adventurous or have any reason to suspect the health of the timing system, new timing and balance shaft chain kits are good ideas, but both can also be done in the car. There should be a balance between doing things that need doing and/or are easier to do while the motor's out, and not fiddling with things too much so you know everything works when it goes into the car.

 

[Gtstorey]

There should be a balance between doing things that need doing and/or are easier to do while the motor's out, and not fiddling with things too much so you know everything works when it goes into the car.

Exactly. If any of the upgrades/maintenance is stretching your skills, get the car together and running and hope it makes it until next winter. It's hard to trouble shoot your probable (inevitable?) no start/not running right issues when major surgery has been done.

 

[Fenix Nexen]

More maintenance than ugprades- Dorman timing chain guide bolt and a new timing chain tensioner. The guide bolt is an improved design over OE and any tensioner you find now should be GM's latest improved revision. Both have been problematic in the past.

can you point me to some guides on how to install these?

 

[Rauq]

 

[snirtman]

can you point me to some guides on how to install these?

I would say they're fairly easy repairs, but also fairly easy to mess up. Check your work, then check it again. And before you put the covers back on, check it again.

Also, be aware before you start, if you take the crank pulley off, they advise installing with a new bolt. If you remove the timing cover, very likely you'll need to replace the timing cover gasket also. Same for the valve cover - if you remove it, very likely you'll need a valve cover gasket, and just like the crank pulley, if you remove the cam gears, they advise installing new bolts. So add about $80-$100 for gaskets and bolts.

The front crank seal that's in the timing cover is pretty inexpensive and easy to replace, so that's another "while you're in there" jobs to consider

 

[Rauq]

Also, be aware before you start, if you take the crank pulley off, they advise installing with a new bolt. If you remove the timing cover, very likely you'll need to replace the timing cover gasket also. Same for the valve cover - if you remove it, very likely you'll need a valve cover gasket, and just like the crank pulley, if you remove the cam gears, they advise installing new bolts. So add about $80-$100 for gaskets and bolts.

The front crank seal that's in the timing cover is pretty inexpensive and easy to replace, so that's another "while you're in there" jobs to consider

The timing cover shouldn't have to come off unless you're doing chains or you find broken stuff when doing the tensioner or guide bolt. In that case, yes, a new crank bolt, timing cover gasket, and front main seal are advisable. The cam gears shouldn't come off unless doing a timing chain, but will need new cam sprocket bolts to go back on. Fortunately, the cam gear bolts come with most quality timing chain kits.

 

[Fenix Nexen]

a summary to end the day of april 1st, if i ever get another donor, rust would be a major factor for sure until i find better tools to deal with this here

the nuts and bolts on this section is so bad that they're basically fused into one part and I had to take a grinder to it. A victory for today as I dropped the engine, my first time ever using a engine hoist and dropping an engine. This project is a lot of firsts actually when it comes to car mechanics.

This feels like a good milestone and resting point for a few days to a few weeks.

edit: Oh also got appropriate bags for sorting nuts and bolts.

 

[Robinjo]

That level of organisation is going to pay dividends later. Getting the engine out, the shell gone, finishing the harness, engine to fire and first drive were the huge milestones for me. Good job hitting one!

 

[G Atsma]

Ziploks, masking tape and Sharpies to the rescue....