V1 Fenix's Goblin #461 - 2010 Base Auto

[KSLunsfo]

Were you loosening or tightening? If the issue was trying to loosen... use some penetrating oil, like Kroil for example hours or even a day before cracking any rusty/crusty looking bolts/nuts loose. Of course the longer you can let it soak in the better. Doing this can save you from these types of events much of the time. Also a little heat can help, just have to be careful how much and where you're putting it.

 

[Fenix Nexen]

It's a stud, sheered off when tightening the nut. Ty for the tips

 

[Fenix Nexen]

here it is, any idea where to get it?

 

[Metal Mech]

I’m probably wrong about
this but it looks like the same type of stud that hold the exhaust on.

 

[Fenix Nexen]

I’m probably wrong about
this but it looks like the same type of stud that hold the exhaust on.

Found a bolt that fit and used a nut as a spacer, works for me haha

 

[ah.b.normal]

Great Job! Here is something to remember about products and cars in general. Many times a stud is used where a bolt will also suffice. It is a whole lot faster to connect those cooler lines lining the plate up over a stud and putting on a nut than trying to line up that bolt into a blind hole behind a plate. Many times the way a car is bolted together is designed around ease of assembly on an assembly line. Imagine putting those cooling lines onto transmissions with a bolt through that plate 8 hours a day. The stud acts like an alignment pin for the cooler lines to ease assembly. Certainly a bolt works just as well! (I am researching Automatic to Manual change over. You've probably noticed the Automatic trans computer(TCM) is separate from the ECM. There are several wires crossing over from the TCM to the ECM, other than that the two computers and their wiring harnesses could have been separate with a small 8 wire connector between the two. I believe from my research that the two harnesses were built together to ease assembly.) When you're building a car an hour seconds saved adds up. Building a Goblin?, not so much. It's good to pose modification questions to the forum. Most of the time someone else has already faced your problem and fixed it.

 

[Fenix Nexen]

How are the engine mount spacers installed on the automatic?

 

[Joebob]

How are the engine mount spacers installed on the automatic?

Joebobs build log SS/NA Auto Extended City frame #270

Long time no write. I have had a few weeks where I had all the prep work done for the donor parts and before my kit arrived. the great news is that last Friday I made it out to Red Oak and picked up my kit!!! A friend of mine was going to come with me and use his truck but he had house issues...

dfkitcar.com

 

[Fenix Nexen]

Joebobs build log SS/NA Auto Extended City frame #270

Long time no write. I have had a few weeks where I had all the prep work done for the donor parts and before my kit arrived. the great news is that last Friday I made it out to Red Oak and picked up my kit!!! A friend of mine was going to come with me and use his truck but he had house issues...

dfkitcar.com

thanks a bunch

got it in now and celebrating with some chicken nuggets

 

[ah.b.normal]

thanks a bunch

got it in now and celebrating with some chicken nuggets

View attachment 40672

View attachment 40673

Chicken nuggets! You are a wild thing! WOOOOHOOO! Then again, any excuse to party ends with a Party! "Party On Wayne!"

 

[Fenix Nexen]

I'm short one radiator hose joiner and clamp... Dunno where to get spares?

 

[Fenix Nexen]

Decided to turn the key to see if it lights up, didnt start it

there is a high pitched electrical sound for a bit when turning the key coming from the engine area along with a hard click when turning the key but not cranking it, added fuel and the fuel gauge is unresponsive, also the ignition does not want to surrender the key, the butterfly for the throttlebody does move though

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[Ross]

Sounds like the starter solenoid is make that hard click sound. Is the engine getting a good ground? Battery cables solid? Check the big B+ heading to the starter motor. Battery charged up?

 

[Fenix Nexen]

battery cables are good, engine has its ground attached and is getting ground, i didnt check the battery yet ill do that next but in the meantime... i went back to the garage and felt the tcm and its rather warm considering all the other parts are cold, also i noticed that the dials twitch around some when turning the key off, the noise is coming more from the throttle body i think..

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and here is a shot of the starter, top post has a wire coming from the battery, one going to the positive term on the fuse box and a 3rd that was not messed with

edit: battery tested to be good but at 66% charge

 

[Fenix Nexen]

i hear of a purple wire in various posts and i have a purple wire zip tied up near the fuse box, i thought that was just a fog lamp wire for accessories?

 

[Gtstorey]

There is more than 1 purple wire. Many more.

 

[Fenix Nexen]

There is more than 1 purple wire. Many more.

Small gauge purple wire near the bcm and fuse box, unused extension wires because automatic. Some pictures of grounds. Unused red and white wire near dash. Will do more tests tomorrow.

 

[Ross]

The purple wire on the starter is the one that gives 12V+ to the starter when the PCM says it is time to start the engine. Once the purple wire gets 12V+, the solenoid will click, and the starter should start cranking the engine. I think I hear your starter solenoid click, but videos evidence may not be conclusive. Can you feel the starter solenoid click? If the high amperage big wires are all conducting (your pics look good) then the starter should crank the engine. A voltage test at the big lead on the starter would tell us if the wires are conducting. The voltage should start around 12V, and when the solenoid clicks, the voltage should drop to 9ish volts, then rise back up once the engine starts rotating.

 

[Fenix Nexen]

The purple wire on the starter is the one that gives 12V+ to the starter when the PCM says it is time to start the engine. Once the purple wire gets 12V+, the solenoid will click, and the starter should start cranking the engine. I think I hear your starter solenoid click, but videos evidence may not be conclusive. Can you feel the starter solenoid click? If the high amperage big wires are all conducting (your pics look good) then the starter should crank the engine. A voltage test at the big lead on the starter would tell us if the wires are conducting. The voltage should start around 12V, and when the solenoid clicks, the voltage should drop to 9ish volts, then rise back up once the engine starts rotating.

ill check it out and report back tomorrow after work i still have to hook up the coolant tank, need to buy a splice

 

[snirtman]

I'm short one radiator hose joiner and clamp... Dunno where to get spares?

The DF build video has you cutting the 72049 hose into two pieces on the LH side, but DF doesn't supply enough couplers to build the hoses the way the videos say to do it. I found the hose fit pretty well on the RH side without cutting:

On the LH side I reused the Cobalt hose on the head and coupled it with one of the hoses included in the kit (I forget which one)