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V1 Fenix's Goblin #461 - 2010 Base Auto

A
Grounds! A little story for everyone. Way back when , when Electronic Ignition was a new selling point and points were banished to history; I had a car that just slowed down then stopped. At the same time I happened to notice the stock radio got quieter and quieter until it was a whisper. Bad Alternator not charging the battery. Subsequently as it's battery charge was depleted battery voltage dropped. When available volts hit about 10 the amplifier in the radio quit, at 9 volts the HEI module quit. The electronic ignition module could not work with less than 9 volts. Excessive resistance in the ground circuit(back to the battery) would have similar effects. This is why dirty/corroded/broken strands in ground wires are bad problems and wreak so much havoc! Conversely too much voltage can be just as bad. (Though sometimes useful, overclocking motherboards in computers makes the processor speed go up but they can overheat and catch fire.)
 
G
Most auto's have a solenoid to keep the key from coming out of the ignition when the transmission is not in park. I assume the Cobalt Auto is the same.
 
Fenix Nexen
I guess pressing the solenoid in manually to release the key will just be a habit then, or maybe a push to start? Also the amount of oxide on the engine is upsetting :/. I went out and took a wire brush to some spots and got really nowhere.
 
Joebob
The key should come out with strong battery power to the switch. You might need power to the shifter if there is an interrupt. I know there is a solinoid that blocks shifting out of park unless the brake swith is activated.

Joe
 
Fenix Nexen
tires tires tires! My hubs from my donor are 5x110 and are rusted to ****. I think I will ask DF to include the redrilled hubs for stage 2.

So looking for 5x114.3 wheels and tires. My use would be 50/50 split between carving up backroads and plain traveling around. I am very set on getting fenders, so I want 245 wides. I do not plan on taking it out in the rain or snow. I also dont mind how often I'd have to replace the tires, its all smiles per mile over here. I also want to keep my speedometer correct. Speedo being correct is optional
 
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Fenix Nexen
Oh also one of the bolts that holds on to the connectors in the fuse box sheered off and I need a tip on removing it and where to get a new bolt
 

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Sluggonaut
I had one of the nuts in one of the connectors strip, so I had to remove the captured bolt, clean up the threads, and find a nut for it. The bolts are M6x1.0.

In my case, I used the stock bolt with a new nut and I just bolted the connector to the top of the fuse box. I just take care in seating the connector when placing the top back on the fuse box and make sure not to hit that bolt again when tightening the other ones.
 
Desert Sasqwatch
Fenix Nexen said:
Oh also one of the bolts that holds on to the connectors in the fuse box sheered off and I need a tip on removing it and where to get a new bolt
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Wow! Backoff on the cans of spinach Popeye! LOL!!! :p;) Try to spin the stub out of the retainer ring. This is a necked-down bolt - the threads are wider than the shaft under the bolt head. You may have to look for this specialty bolt at ACE Hardware (they carry bolts like these), McMaster-Carr, or another place that sells then unusual stuff.
 
Fenix Nexen
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S
Fenix Nexen said:
Where can I get a replacement for that?
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Fortunately, it looks like the short ground cable, not the long positive cable. If you've got the materials laying around its easy to make a replacement. Otherwise its about 5 bucks at your local pick-a-part and about 5 minutes to harvest.
 
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