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V1 Frank's Florida Street Goblin Build (#227) - 06 SS, 2.4L donor

CaptFrank2001
Out to another local Car show here in North Central Florida. Very nice weather yesterday but Hurricane "IAN" is headed my way.
 

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CaptFrank2001
TURBO TIME - Well it's time to add a Turbo to my build. It's plenty fast as is for a 70ty year old like me but I am adding the Turbo for the "Cool Factor". I'm going with the Z04 Turbo supplied by RPM-Motorsports. I have started the breakdown of the motor add will post pictures as I go along. My motor is a 2.4 Ecotec out of a 2006 Cobalt SS. I believe the stock motor is 171 HP but it does have a better intake, headers and a decent Tune. So probably about 180HP as it sits. I am shooting for a mild increase on Horse Power of 80 HP or so. Going with #60 Injectors and around 10 Lbs of boost. I will also be adding an electric exhaust cutout/bypass valve. I will post pictures as I go.
 

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CaptFrank2001
Turbo (K04) is mounted. Water cooling & oil lines are all installed on the turbo. Added a custom Exhaust from ZZPerformance https://zzperformance.com/products/zzp-df-goblin-turbo-exhaust?_pos=2&_sid=8de37de17&_ss=r Ordered it late on Monday & it arrived on Friday. VERY fast shipping. Still need to add one more bung for the wide band O2 sensor (comes with two installed). Turbo intake is mounted (Not shown in picture) but will be changing to a different type Air Filter. Still waiting on the Intercooler to do the final piping for that.
 

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CaptFrank2001
Finished the Intercooler install today. Running the piping was a challenge. I will be adding an Intercooler fan & changing the Air filter/intake. Not crazy about the look as it is now. Short video of the first start since adding the K04 Turbo on Youtube.
 

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CaptFrank2001
CLUTCH REPLACEMENT - Turbo install went much smoother than I thought. Once I was able to find a good tune (from ZZP) the car is making gobs of Horse Power, probably in the 300HP range. One small problem .... my Stage II clutch can not handle the extra HP. It pains me to tear down a good running car that I had just got to where I wanted it but it had to be done.

I decided to disassemble the least I could and still get the job done. I hated the thought of completely removing the engine/trans from the car to replace the clutch.

Basically I raised the frame about 12", removed the left rear wheel assembly, the muffler, some intercooler piping, coolant lines & dropped the sub frame. I then replaced the right side engine mount bolts with 5" long bolts so I could drop the motor but kind of keep it aligned as well as still in contact with the frame. This has worked out very well. New 9-1/2", Stage III clutch & Aluminum Flywheel from ZZP is on the way. It's rated for 400 ft/lbs of torque. Attached a few pictures.
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A
About 1,000 miles. It was a great clutch before I added the Turbo. It handled the 180HP engine just fine. Now making (estimate) 300+ HP and it just wasn't up to the task.
HAHA! I like it when a clutch just can't hold on! It means your plans for more power are coming true!
A side note on your disassembly method, it would be easier to demount the brake caliper and hang it from the frame, than to remove the brake line from the caliper. It saves you brake bleeding time. If you were concerned that the the brake pedal might get pressed, thus closing the caliper/pads; a trick is to wedge a disc thickness piece of wood between the pads while the caliper is off the disc. (secured with your choice of bungee cord or{my favorite} duct tape)
Looking great!
 
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