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V1 IDRVSLO / TRACK / 08 SS TC **REGISTERED** #105
Briann1177
Goblin Guru
- Briann1177 Goblin Guru
****, that looks like some kind of drip irrigation system. 
Will that require an engine drop to fix?
Will that require an engine drop to fix?
- Lonny Administrator
Look inside the cup that goes over that. The seal may be pushed up inside of it.
You will need to carefully pull it out and install it over the end of the fitting in your image. I think it has to go over the groove in the plastic.
I know from experience that if you don't put the seal on far enough it will leak and when you pull it back apart you will find the seal down in the bottom of the cup.
You will need to carefully pull it out and install it over the end of the fitting in your image. I think it has to go over the groove in the plastic.
I know from experience that if you don't put the seal on far enough it will leak and when you pull it back apart you will find the seal down in the bottom of the cup.
ncgoblin
Goblin Guru
- ncgoblin Goblin Guru
You will have to buy that specific o-ring if it is not tucked up in the block. This is not available at the auto stores but is on zzp. I believe I have one at home I can ship but I will not be back until Monday evening.
https://zzperformance.com/products/clutch-pipe
Honestly at the price you get a new line if you ever remove your transmission and the plastic sleeve not to bad for about $15 shipped.
Also probably common sense but the pyramid shape plastic sleeve over the line is pushed in first then the outer plastic ring installed.
The trasmission will probably show leaking fluid a few weeks after you fix the problem I thought I still had a problem even after spraying carb cleaner inside. 2 weeks later it finally stopped leaking from the bottom of the case. I knew this was just coming from the case because the resevoir never lost fluid.
There is a reason this is one of the most common parts on zzp for cobalt We all lose that dang o-ring.
https://zzperformance.com/products/clutch-pipe
Honestly at the price you get a new line if you ever remove your transmission and the plastic sleeve not to bad for about $15 shipped.
Also probably common sense but the pyramid shape plastic sleeve over the line is pushed in first then the outer plastic ring installed.
The trasmission will probably show leaking fluid a few weeks after you fix the problem I thought I still had a problem even after spraying carb cleaner inside. 2 weeks later it finally stopped leaking from the bottom of the case. I knew this was just coming from the case because the resevoir never lost fluid.
There is a reason this is one of the most common parts on zzp for cobalt
We all lose that dang o-ring.
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ctuinstra
Goblin Guru
IDRVSLO
Goblin Guru
- IDRVSLO Goblin Guru
Brakes and clutch are good to go. The shifter cables are the last item to complete before the first drive!
The drivers seat is in but no pics of it.
Forgot, trying to get the front mount to line up, any tricks since everything is solid....lol. Fyi this donor was not wrecked.
Thanks everyone for the advice and help along the way.
The drivers seat is in but no pics of it.
Forgot, trying to get the front mount to line up, any tricks since everything is solid....lol. Fyi this donor was not wrecked.
Thanks everyone for the advice and help along the way.
Waterdriver
Goblin Guru
- Waterdriver Goblin Guru
I had the same issue with getting that one bolt in the front mount.
I basically loosened and the other mounting bolts and used a floor jack under the transmission to manipulate its position to get that bolt in.
Once that bolt is in and torqued, re-torqued all the other bolts. Again.
I basically loosened and the other mounting bolts and used a floor jack under the transmission to manipulate its position to get that bolt in.
Once that bolt is in and torqued, re-torqued all the other bolts. Again.
ncgoblin
Goblin Guru
ctuinstra
Goblin Guru
- ctuinstra Goblin Guru
We had the exact same issue. We even lossened every engine mount bolt and it was clear that if we did get it to go in, it would put the others in a bind. We ended up putting the factory rubber mount back on. Even it had witness marks that it didn't line up! But it has a much larger bolt hole, that gave it enough room for it to go in.
Christopher Sanchez
Well-Known Member
- Christopher Sanchez Well-Known Member
That front motor mount alignment looked exactly like mine did!! It was a SOB to get aligned. I ended up having to loosen all of the motor/trans bolts lift the engine using the engine hoist just a bit, and I ultimately had to insert the long bolt from motor mount to subframe first then after loosening all bolts and using the hoist the 2 bolts to the engine would line up just enough to get the bolts going. Hope yours went easier!
