V1 Joe's 2009 F40 SS/TC #470

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Use a zip tie. Cut it down to the proper length to fit the diameter and push it into the locking mechanism to release it - in place of the tool. This is the solution I used to remove the braided hose that is tight to the valve cover.

 

[comegetjoe]

Use a zip tie. Cut it down to the proper length to fit the diameter and push it into the locking mechanism to release it - in place of the tool. This is the solution I used to remove the braided hose that is tight to the valve cover.

Oh! Now there is some thinking. Ill try that tomorrow.

 

[ah.b.normal]

Oh! Now there is some thinking. Ill try that tomorrow.

Kinda makes a guy wanna put Ol’ Dr. Squach on speed dial!

 

[comegetjoe]

Whelp...finally got a smidge of motivation today to get out and install some parts and was instantly met by a road block. It appears that the two steering rack bolt holes are too close together on the chassis. I can get both bolts to go in at the same time. Its one or the other...

 

[comegetjoe]

 

[Scott #321]

try putting the bolts full length through the chassis then just starting the rack on both sides. the mounts are likely in the right location and have just splayed inward some during the process of welding. If I remember correctly mine was similar but bolted in fine using this technique.

 

[Gtstorey]

That might just take a BFH (Big $%^@ Hammer) to fix. At least you won't be able to see damage to the powder coat once fully assembled.

 

[comegetjoe]

Ive got the 4lb waiting.

try putting the bolts full length through the chassis then just starting the rack on both sides. the mounts are likely in the right location and have just splayed inward some during the process of welding. If I remember correctly mine was similar but bolted in fine using this technique.

Tried this, but it did not work. I tried starting one side and then the other, but that also didnt work.

That might just take a BFH (Big $%^@ Hammer) to fix. At least you won't be able to see damage to the powder coat once fully assembled.

Ive got the 4lb ready, but it looks like they welded a tube through the tube. If I bend the tube, will the bolt be able to fit through the frame if I bend the end to make it fit the rack?

 

[ah.b.normal]

Ive got the 4lb waiting.


Tried this, but it did not work. I tried starting one side and then the other, but that also didnt work.



Ive got the 4lb ready, but it looks like they welded a tube through the tube. If I bent the tube, will the bolt be able to fit through the frame if I bend the end to make it fit the rack?

Send many Pix to Adam. Then call.

 

[comegetjoe]

Realistically, whats Adam going to be able to do from Texas? Its not like I can take it back and have it fixed.


I will see about the ratchet straps though.

 

[ah.b.normal]

Does anyone near by have another rack? Maybe this rack is bent? Fixture welding rarely moves around this much and used parts like the bushings in the rack can take a set in their original car and be out of spec now.?

 

[ah.b.normal]

I think you ought to give Adam a chance to speak about your problem. They build them after all. Heck, just call him, he may have an answer.

 

[ah.b.normal]

The bolts that held the subframe on to the Cobalt body has a taper on one side of the tip, this design helped align the captured nuts to the bolt quickly on the assembly line. If you get 1/2" longer bolts and ground them in the style of those bolts making a leaning cone The cone would engage and align the bushing as they engage. Cut the funky tip off when done.

 

[Gtstorey]

Ive got the 4lb waiting.


Tried this, but it did not work. I tried starting one side and then the other, but that also didnt work.



Ive got the 4lb ready, but it looks like they welded a tube through the tube. If I bend the tube, will the bolt be able to fit through the frame if I bend the end to make it fit the rack?

Hard to say, but maybe enough play. You might be able to run a drill through to open it back up once bent into place. But be prepared for the drill to grab.

 

[ah.b.normal]

Is it possible the bolt goes through the rack then through the frame? The bushing would then flex to meet the frame.

 

[comegetjoe]

Is it possible the bolt goes through the rack then through the frame? The bushing would then flex to meet the frame.

That might be the saving grace. If I can ratchet to one side firmly and force the bolt in, then the bushing will keep the rack from cracking, which is a fear of mine atm.

 

[ah.b.normal]

That might be the saving grace. If I can ratchet to one side firmly and force the bolt in, then the bushing will keep the rack from cracking, which is a fear of mine atm.

Crack The Rack!, better now than later! They made plenty more! Longer bolts of the proper grade with the tips tapered as I described and through the bushing first is my bet! Straps should be set to pull the rack down on the same plane as installed, not side to side.

 

[comegetjoe]

So Ive had help and two other brains try and help me out in person, but no luck. We've tried ratched straps, installing on an angle, tweaking bolts etc. etc.

So... I think this may be my next best bet.

Thoughts?

 

[Gtstorey]

You’ll end up in the same place as the BFH, just with less noise and maybe less localized damage from hitting it. Either way you are going to have to bend things.

 

[ah.b.normal]

I'd speak to Adam first. Bending stuff is permanent! Risk breaking a rack, frames are expensive! Get a second rack to try, like a second opinion! I wish you were near Columbus, GA, you could go by the farm and pick up one or two of my spares! Pull a Part prolly only wants $30. I don't believe you are going to significantly move those bolt tubes apart, and if you bend where they come through the tube, bolts will NOT go through those little tubes. Patience is important here, it is steering we're talking about and second best isn't good enough.