comegetjoe
Goblin Guru
- comegetjoe Goblin Guru
Life is short. Just do it
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V1 Riley's Full Cage Goblin -07 SS/TC F23 #457
newbtrying
Well-Known Member
- newbtrying Well-Known Member
I emailed DF Support on the 12th (today is the 23rd) about getting a certificate of origin, and I've still not heard back 
i'm waiting as fast as I can so that I can get this car registered and on the road. I'm going to call a few times today and see if i can get an ETA. I just rang them and it went to voicemail.
*UPDATE* i got ahold of Adam and have the MCO on the way.
i'm waiting as fast as I can so that I can get this car registered and on the road. I'm going to call a few times today and see if i can get an ETA. I just rang them and it went to voicemail.*UPDATE* i got ahold of Adam and have the MCO on the way.
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newbtrying
Well-Known Member
- newbtrying Well-Known Member
This morning I got the Goblin officially registered! i now wear plates and am 100% ready to hit the streets! Now wish for some warm weather to hit MT please.
I took it for a quick rip to the gas station a handful of miles away today, and boy did it rip. Also, with the vss pulse change on HP Tuners, my speedometer is reading. And it's even reading correctly, verified by one of those "watch your speed" signs that shows how fast you are going as you drive up on them. LOL
I should also add that there is still some fine tuning to be done with the tune, but we'll get there one day. It surges a bit at low RPM/idle, especially while in first gear. It also died on me as i came off the highway and pushed the clutch in to downshift and pull into my driveway, which was a first. It shows a few misfires happening at idle still, but I'm sure this is caused by the big injectors and current tune combo. The other gremlin is my boost. for whatever reason, I'm not getting above 5 PSI of boost (which is shocking based on how it feels WOT). I just bypassed my boost controller to see if it builds the expected amount of boost (about 14-16 PSI) when piped straight to the wastegate diaphragm. Permaybe my boost controller is just trash.
I took it for a quick rip to the gas station a handful of miles away today, and boy did it rip. Also, with the vss pulse change on HP Tuners, my speedometer is reading. And it's even reading correctly, verified by one of those "watch your speed" signs that shows how fast you are going as you drive up on them. LOL
I should also add that there is still some fine tuning to be done with the tune, but we'll get there one day. It surges a bit at low RPM/idle, especially while in first gear. It also died on me as i came off the highway and pushed the clutch in to downshift and pull into my driveway, which was a first. It shows a few misfires happening at idle still, but I'm sure this is caused by the big injectors and current tune combo. The other gremlin is my boost. for whatever reason, I'm not getting above 5 PSI of boost (which is shocking based on how it feels WOT). I just bypassed my boost controller to see if it builds the expected amount of boost (about 14-16 PSI) when piped straight to the wastegate diaphragm. Permaybe my boost controller is just trash.
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comegetjoe
Goblin Guru
- comegetjoe Goblin Guru
newbtrying
Well-Known Member
- newbtrying Well-Known Member
I hate how on the nose you are with thisDid it happen to say "SLOW DOWN" ?
Rttoys
Smokin' Goblin
- Rttoys Smokin' Goblin
There’s some cardo’s on sale at reveille
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newbtrying
Well-Known Member
- newbtrying Well-Known Member
Been logging some drives and doing some back and forth with sending logs to the tuner and uploading new tunes. car still goes into open loop at idle, and he stated that there's "odd fuel trims" plus the tendency to die (sometimes) when i press the clutch in and let off the throttle at cruising speed (usually also accompanied by braking). -all of this suggests the possibility of a vacuum leak, so i'm going to investigate that. I bought a boost leak pressure tester that clamps onto the inlet of my turbo. I'll pressurize the system to about 25 psi and spray everything down with soapy water and see if i find any leaks. Does anyone have any better methods for tracking down a vacuum leak?
Also, I'd really like to swap all of the silicone tubing to AN hoses (turbo inlet to wastegate, throttle body to blow off valve, PCV to turbo) has any of you done this? I wonder what type of connectors and adapters would be needed... I'll put some effort into that.
Another thing on my list is to install a catch can. There's 100 different ways on the internet to install a catch can, and all claim to be the only correct way. Again, has any of you done this on a turbo goblin setup?
And finally... I've really been enjoying the car. I took it on a 400 mile round trip drive up north last weekend and I got into some river roads, interstates, and backcountry pine-lined highways. during that all, I really discovered how intense of a drive this car is. it's really a handful in all the best ways. air temp was about 55 degrees for most of my drive, and one morning it was 34 and I has frost on my speedometer. After the swap to the remote mounted oil cooler, my coolant temp was 175 to 155 degrees during those temps, respectively. I also discovered a slight oil leak at the back edge (back of the goblin, that is) of the timing chain cover. for this summer, I'll probably let that slowly leak until I get around to resealing the cover this winter. I'm going to put miles on it while I can, and what's a little horsepower sweat?
Also, I'd really like to swap all of the silicone tubing to AN hoses (turbo inlet to wastegate, throttle body to blow off valve, PCV to turbo) has any of you done this? I wonder what type of connectors and adapters would be needed... I'll put some effort into that.
Another thing on my list is to install a catch can. There's 100 different ways on the internet to install a catch can, and all claim to be the only correct way. Again, has any of you done this on a turbo goblin setup?
And finally... I've really been enjoying the car. I took it on a 400 mile round trip drive up north last weekend and I got into some river roads, interstates, and backcountry pine-lined highways. during that all, I really discovered how intense of a drive this car is. it's really a handful in all the best ways. air temp was about 55 degrees for most of my drive, and one morning it was 34 and I has frost on my speedometer. After the swap to the remote mounted oil cooler, my coolant temp was 175 to 155 degrees during those temps, respectively. I also discovered a slight oil leak at the back edge (back of the goblin, that is) of the timing chain cover. for this summer, I'll probably let that slowly leak until I get around to resealing the cover this winter. I'm going to put miles on it while I can, and what's a little horsepower sweat?
Ross
Goblin Professor
- Ross Goblin Professor
Another way to track down vacuum leaks is to fill the intake with smoke, and check if any smoke gets out. I did this to my engine, but I should have taken out the MAF sensor, and that would have saved me from cleaning it.
Rttoys
Smokin' Goblin
- Rttoys Smokin' Goblin
There’s not many places for vac leaks, but one of the big ones will be the brake booster and vac line going to it. Simply unplug and cap off the booster at the intake and take a short drive to see if it acts the same or if it’s fixed. You won’t have power brakes, but that’s not a big deal.
check intake and intake tube after the maf. Like Ross said, clean the maf too, hell, clean up the throttle body while you are there.
check intake and intake tube after the maf. Like Ross said, clean the maf too, hell, clean up the throttle body while you are there.
David
Goblin Guru
- David Goblin Guru
So im in the process of changing out all my rubber lines to AN lines. Im running the z57 turbo and I got to change the coolant and oil lines already. Majority of lines im in the process but got the necessary fitting sorted out. I will post some pictures and information one I'm finish. Took alot of ordering random sizes to make it work.
As for a catch can I was in the same boat as you. So many opinions from everyone, I gathered everything up and decided on a plan with I will post on my thread. I have attached a quick drawing how I will run it. Also had to customize the valve cover to make it work.
Desert Sasqwatch
Bigfoot Goblin
- Desert Sasqwatch Bigfoot Goblin
Your diagram is the simple and straightforward means to add catch cans to the LNF - and you are correct that 2 cans are needed to isolate the turbo inlet side from the intake manifold side. Trying to port both of these to a single catch can is not feasible in a closed system.
On the intake manifold side, the PCV is redundant to the check valve, since a PCV is in essence a check valve - but there is nothing wrong with being redundant to ensure boost pressure doesn't flow backwards into the crankcase.
On the turbo inlet side, please be certain to provide a hose for ambient air from the intake tube after the air filter - but as far upstream of the turbocharger inlet - into the second port in the valve cover. This hose will need a check valve to allow airflow into the valve cover, but prevent any pressure from the crankcase flowing into the intake tube.
The red circled port is the air inlet into the valve cover, the blue circled port is the outlet from the valve cover, the green circled port is the inlet to the turbocharger that will have constant vacuum.
On the intake manifold side, the PCV is redundant to the check valve, since a PCV is in essence a check valve - but there is nothing wrong with being redundant to ensure boost pressure doesn't flow backwards into the crankcase.
On the turbo inlet side, please be certain to provide a hose for ambient air from the intake tube after the air filter - but as far upstream of the turbocharger inlet - into the second port in the valve cover. This hose will need a check valve to allow airflow into the valve cover, but prevent any pressure from the crankcase flowing into the intake tube.
The red circled port is the air inlet into the valve cover, the blue circled port is the outlet from the valve cover, the green circled port is the inlet to the turbocharger that will have constant vacuum.
David
Goblin Guru
- David Goblin Guru
Your diagram is the simple and straightforward means to add catch cans to the LNF - and you are correct that 2 cans are needed to isolate the turbo inlet side from the intake manifold side. Trying to port both of these to a single catch can is not feasible in a closed system.
On the intake manifold side, the PCV is redundant to the check valve, since a PCV is in essence a check valve - but there is nothing wrong with being redundant to ensure boost pressure doesn't flow backwards into the crankcase.
On the turbo inlet side, please be certain to provide a hose for ambient air from the intake tube after the air filter - but as far upstream of the turbocharger inlet - into the second port in the valve cover. This hose will need a check valve to allow airflow into the valve cover, but prevent any pressure from the crankcase flowing into the intake tube.
View attachment 56505
The red circled port is the air inlet into the valve cover, the blue circled port is the outlet from the valve cover, the green circled port is the inlet to the turbocharger that will have constant vacuum.
Sorry I forgot to specify that I have a LSJ turbo.
Desert Sasqwatch
Bigfoot Goblin
- Desert Sasqwatch Bigfoot Goblin
NP. There should be no difference tho for the turbo on a LSJ. There just needs to be another port added to the valve cover to let air in as I described - this will prevent an 'over vacuum' condition in the crankcase. A 3/16 to 1/4 inch port with a fitting in it that matches the existing port which you are using for the catch can at the turbo inlet would probably work sufficiently. Without this added valve cover port both catch can systems are trying to pull air out of the crankcase with little air coming in (if the engine rings are a good seal with minimal blow-by). At very high vacuum conditions - lifting throttle at high rpm - is where this occurs. Just pointing this out as something to consider. 
newbtrying
Well-Known Member
- newbtrying Well-Known Member
So far, I've checked everywhere except the brake booster line, so i'll do that next. currently working on solving related issues a different way, which i'll explain in the next post.
newbtrying
Well-Known Member
- newbtrying Well-Known Member
NP. There should be no difference tho for the turbo on a LSJ. There just needs to be another port added to the valve cover to let air in as I described - this will prevent an 'over vacuum' condition in the crankcase. A 3/16 to 1/4 inch port with a fitting in it that matches the existing port which you are using for the catch can at the turbo inlet would probably work sufficiently. Without this added valve cover port both catch can systems are trying to pull air out of the crankcase with little air coming in (if the engine rings are a good seal with minimal blow-by). At very high vacuum conditions - lifting throttle at high rpm - is where this occurs. Just pointing this out as something to consider.
Ok, I'm following this conversation I think. I'm in the same boat as David, since I'll have to add another port on the valve cover. I never considered the need for two cans, but I guess it only makes sense. --- OR, what if a guy used a single can with a double inlet/outlet and had check valves in all the appropriate places. I assume you'd want a sealed can and not a ventilated one in David's diagram and in the scenario i'm describing (assuming this type of can exists)
newbtrying
Well-Known Member
- newbtrying Well-Known Member
I'll be watching your log then. Since you did all the fitting searching, i'll just borrow from your hard work LOL
newbtrying
Well-Known Member
- newbtrying Well-Known Member
3 things that are mainly happening: 1) brainstorming catch can plumbing/install ideas. work in progress. 2) installing AEM TRU Boost X electronic boost controller/gauge. 3) installing AEM X-series Wideband UEGO AFR sensor
These three things are results of me getting to items that i've wanted to address, but have just not shelled out the money for yet. The catalyst for doing them all now was the boost leak/vacuum leak that my tuner is claiming I probably have. I bought a boost tester from amazon, hooked it up, and went hunting for bubbles while armed with a spray bottle full of soapy water. I checked the intake, any hose connectors from the turbo, boost controller, manifold, valve cover, etc... (I think I even checked the brake booster vacuum line, but now I can't remember...). The only thing I found was a significant "Leak" coming from my ZZP manual boost controller that came with the turbo kit. However, It's from a purposely placed ventilation hold on the barbed output from the controller to the wastegate. I've noticed that screwing in the adjustment screw on this controller seemingly does not affect my boost. I don't know how the boost controller works, perhaps i'm missing a check ball inside, maybe it works fine... IDK. I just decided to get rid of it and press forward with the AEM boost controller like i was planning to do eventually anyway.
Since I ordered the boost controller, I decided it was time to also buy the wideband O2 sensor. I know this car is running RICH (as intended currently by the tuner), but it bothers me that I can't say how rich. so... better data out is going to equal better tune in my case. Since I have to get this data to the tuner via HP Tuners, I also ordered the HP Tuners Pro Link cable... what's another $75 toward the boost and wideband setup at this point anyway. This cable will hook up to the HP Tuners OBD2 module (I have the MPVI3 version I believe), which will enable the tuner to access the information from the boost controller and wideband easily.
The electronic boost solenoid is going to be mounted in the middle of the firewall, above the gas tank. I am going to place it here because that allows me to use the provided wiring harness without running any extensions for power. I started by pushing a fishtape through the tunnel from the back of the car. After some careful pushing and pulling here and there, i got the fishtape through. Then, I taped the harness and pressure hose to the fish tape end and pulled it through the tunnel toward the back of the car. All went easily.
I wanted to pull the wideband harness through in the same run, but I'll have to pull that through the tunnel, in the opposite direction since the O2 sensor connector is so massive.
I believe I have an unused key-on power source that is folded up and ziptied to my chassis near the steering column. I'll double check that this is key-on and use that for both the wideband o2 power and the boost solenoid power. I'll splice the power in near the gauges and also put the appropriate fuses in line there as well.
I borrowed Rauq’s 3d printed double gauge cluster design to mount these gauges above the steering column. Had a friend print this for me, I’ll pick it up soon and see how it fits up.
I'll need to find a friend to weld the stainless o2 sensor bung on my exhaust, because I don't have that capability, but otherwise I don't think this project will be too complicated. Oh, I had to buy another 02 sensor bung, which I got from amazon here.
These three things are results of me getting to items that i've wanted to address, but have just not shelled out the money for yet. The catalyst for doing them all now was the boost leak/vacuum leak that my tuner is claiming I probably have. I bought a boost tester from amazon, hooked it up, and went hunting for bubbles while armed with a spray bottle full of soapy water. I checked the intake, any hose connectors from the turbo, boost controller, manifold, valve cover, etc... (I think I even checked the brake booster vacuum line, but now I can't remember...). The only thing I found was a significant "Leak" coming from my ZZP manual boost controller that came with the turbo kit. However, It's from a purposely placed ventilation hold on the barbed output from the controller to the wastegate. I've noticed that screwing in the adjustment screw on this controller seemingly does not affect my boost. I don't know how the boost controller works, perhaps i'm missing a check ball inside, maybe it works fine... IDK. I just decided to get rid of it and press forward with the AEM boost controller like i was planning to do eventually anyway.
Since I ordered the boost controller, I decided it was time to also buy the wideband O2 sensor. I know this car is running RICH (as intended currently by the tuner), but it bothers me that I can't say how rich. so... better data out is going to equal better tune in my case. Since I have to get this data to the tuner via HP Tuners, I also ordered the HP Tuners Pro Link cable... what's another $75 toward the boost and wideband setup at this point anyway. This cable will hook up to the HP Tuners OBD2 module (I have the MPVI3 version I believe), which will enable the tuner to access the information from the boost controller and wideband easily.
The electronic boost solenoid is going to be mounted in the middle of the firewall, above the gas tank. I am going to place it here because that allows me to use the provided wiring harness without running any extensions for power. I started by pushing a fishtape through the tunnel from the back of the car. After some careful pushing and pulling here and there, i got the fishtape through. Then, I taped the harness and pressure hose to the fish tape end and pulled it through the tunnel toward the back of the car. All went easily.
I wanted to pull the wideband harness through in the same run, but I'll have to pull that through the tunnel, in the opposite direction since the O2 sensor connector is so massive.
I believe I have an unused key-on power source that is folded up and ziptied to my chassis near the steering column. I'll double check that this is key-on and use that for both the wideband o2 power and the boost solenoid power. I'll splice the power in near the gauges and also put the appropriate fuses in line there as well.
I borrowed Rauq’s 3d printed double gauge cluster design to mount these gauges above the steering column. Had a friend print this for me, I’ll pick it up soon and see how it fits up.
I'll need to find a friend to weld the stainless o2 sensor bung on my exhaust, because I don't have that capability, but otherwise I don't think this project will be too complicated. Oh, I had to buy another 02 sensor bung, which I got from amazon here.
newbtrying
Well-Known Member
- newbtrying Well-Known Member
I've currently got the boost controller solenoid mounted and plumbed (minus the pressure line that goes to the gauge, because i need to buy a tee). I've also pulled the wideband O2 sensor harness through the tunnel in the same fashion as I pulled the power line for the boost controller through, but from the opposite direction.
Now, I am debating where/how to tap into power for both gauges. Both need a 5 amp key-on power source. I thought I had a spare key-on power wire up front, but after double checking, I can tell you that it is constantly hot. AKA not an option.
Use power from old boost connector?
or use fuse taps?
My question for you who are more experienced, would you:
A) use "add a circuit" fuse tap from a fuse located at the BCM?
B) use the power wire from the old boost gauge, Y it, and install in-line 5 amp fuses to each new gauge?
Now, I am debating where/how to tap into power for both gauges. Both need a 5 amp key-on power source. I thought I had a spare key-on power wire up front, but after double checking, I can tell you that it is constantly hot. AKA not an option.
Use power from old boost connector?
or use fuse taps?
My question for you who are more experienced, would you:
A) use "add a circuit" fuse tap from a fuse located at the BCM?
B) use the power wire from the old boost gauge, Y it, and install in-line 5 amp fuses to each new gauge?
