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V1 Josh's City Goblin - 10 XFE Donor

jirwin
I'm confident the new guys gunna sort me out. Still crossing my fingers that I get it back together before they salt the roads. Idc if I have to drive it when its 35F, I just want to see it run and not pressurize the cooling system lol
 
jirwin
Boy did he do a good job! The valves move smoother and have ZERO play. Started putting springs back in tonight. Tedious so I only had the motivation to get 8/16 done, but I'm excited! They haven't put salt down yet so theres still hope for a test drive!
signal-2023-11-08-18-40-45-247.jpg
 
jirwin
Feeling a bit frustrated. Its all back together and runs, but it sounds a bit noisy. At least different. A slight tick and a bit of a "whir" coming from the cam area. Not sure what to think of it honestly. I have a list of things to look at tomorrow.

Video I sent to my dad: https://streamable.com/uwo3n8
 
jirwin
Very very slight noise and bubbling when I opened the coolant cap this morning. I only let it get up to 150F idling yesterday
 
Ross
I agree, sounds like valvetrain noise. If it was mine, I would idle it with the valve cover off, and use a big screwdriver like a stethoscope (Put your ear on the end of the handle, and listen) and probe around the head trying to isolate where the noise is coming from. Checking valve lash.
Air in the coolant will continue until you get all the air out. I bring coolant with me for the first drive, and high RPM will push air out.
 
jirwin
I agree, sounds like valvetrain noise. If it was mine, I would idle it with the valve cover off, and use a big screwdriver like a stethoscope (Put your ear on the end of the handle, and listen) and probe around the head trying to isolate where the noise is coming from. Checking valve lash.
Air in the coolant will continue until you get all the air out. I bring coolant with me for the first drive, and high RPM will push air out.

Checking valve lash? Is that necessary with hydraulic lash adjusters like we have?
 
Ross
You are right. Old knowledge that doesn't transfer to these engines. But it does sound like valve lash noise. Maybe a failed hydraulic lash adjuster? Could be lots of things... let your ear guide you to the issue. Cam chain noise? Valve noise?
 
jirwin
You are right. Old knowledge that doesn't transfer to these engines. But it does sound like valve lash noise. Maybe a failed hydraulic lash adjuster? Could be lots of things... let your ear guide you to the issue. Cam chain noise? Valve noise?

What makes you say valve lash noise? I'm not familiar with what that is "supposed to" sound like
 
Ross
If there is extra room between the cam and the valve it will make a ticking sound.
I haven't run my LSJ engine with the valve cover off, but most engines at idle don't splash much oil out, so you can probe the head for noises.
 
jirwin
Little more background. The guy did a valve job, and we put new valves in it just to do it. The valve job pushed the valves up into the head ~0.030" more, so I added a 0.030" shim below the valve spring to make up for it. He also ground down the valve stem to make it within spec since the valve would have been higher than it was before by ~0.030".

Another thought from what the guy mentioned. So my head warped where the middle was higher than the ends. This also means that the cam journals would have this same bend in them. I'm hoping I'm not hearing a "tight" cam or something similar from the journals being "bent".

We'll see. I'll go start it on lunch.

Plan so far is to:
- Remove belt to remove any pulley noises from the equation
- Triple check oil level
- Double check torque/sealing on exhaust gasket
- Remove spark plug(s) to check for PTV contact with borescope
- Remove valve cover and idle to help determine where noise is coming from
 
Ross
Your engine has VVT? That variable valve timing is controlled by oil pressure? Does the noise go away if you raise the RPM up from idle? It might be low oil pressure at idle causing extra noise. Which might just be normal sounds of the VVT engines. 2.2L LAP guys, does this sound normal?
Does your cam lift up .030" if you remove the rear cam journal? Bent head would be a little concerning. If the cam wears down the center journals, and wears up the end journals, it would be changing the valve lash.
 
jirwin
Yes VVT. Oil pressure was 80lbs at idle (cold). I never revved it because I was letting it warm up. It definitely sounds different than it did beforehand. Without a doubt. That wear "whir" coming from the can area is so perplexing to me
 
Ross
Wow, 80 PSI oil pressure at idle... that is lots of oil pressure. Hopefully that whir sound can be isolated to one area. Maybe one cam journal?
 
jirwin
Wow, 80 PSI oil pressure at idle... that is lots of oil pressure. Hopefully that whir sound can be isolated to one area. Maybe one cam journal?

It calms down to ~30-40 once warm lol. Cam journals are my current suspect. I remember the torque specs on those seeming weird
 
jirwin
Ok! We have progress and a theory of sorts.

Put the valve cover back on and started it up. It was noisy, but not AS noisy. So... I let it run a bit while I looked for the noise. Sounded like its coming from the balance shaft area. There was a TSB I read last night that said that you can make the chain too tight on accident when messing with the head via unintentionally ratcheting the tensioner. Plausible. I also have a balance shaft delete so there are free spinning sprockets there instead. Theses sprockets had loose washers on them. The (skunkworks) guy said not to mess with the bolts holding the sprocket on, so I didn't. I did find it weird though that the sprocket had washers on either side that were allowed to move freely. I'm not sure if this is there with the stock balance shaft sprockets or not. Could also be the source of the noise. Video where you can hear it: https://streamable.com/weipb9

Fast forward a few minutes of letting it idle, and it significantly quieted down. If we're following the balance shaft sprocket theory, maybe in the stock design they are better oiled and it took time to splash oil on them. Not sure. But regardless, its much quieter as you can see here: https://streamable.com/8xbwxd

The only remaining problem is when I rev it... LOTS of white smoke as you can see here: https://streamable.com/f7k820 . This, along with the old log issues where I was getting misfires and hard smokey starts, makes me think I might have a sticking injector(s). Its possible that when I cut the AN lines for the new fuel pump, I got debris in the lines and they clogged the injectors. I'm going to attempt to clean them here in a bit.

On the plus side, it idled for probably 20 minutes, got up to 185F, and just sat there. I was monitoring it the whole time and was able to follow the heat around the cooling system as it moved through it. So I think the head gasket thing is solved. I won't be entirely sure until its under boost though of course.
 
Ross
Well that is some progress! Sorry about the oil mess. I would have done that in my shop, but now that I know the cam chain will fling oil, I will be more prepared.
Does that white smoke have a tint of blue... oil in the exhaust? Steam (water or coolant) in the exhaust? Can you tell if it smells like oil?
Watch the oil level, watch for water in the oil, watch for coolant loss... hey wait, you already said you are getting bubbles in the coolant.
Maybe coolant getting by the head gasket? If you run the engine with no pressure in the coolant (coolant cap off) does it reduce the white smoke?
If you run without coolant, does it go away? (cold engine, <5 minutes of running without coolant)
 
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