V1 Josh's City Goblin - 10 XFE Donor

[Sparvy]

I cut the sidepanels and tested the heat exchangers yesterday. I'm a bit underwhelmed if I'm being honest. I don't have the side pods on yet because I just haven't had the time/patience to dedicate to it. Regardless, in testing it seems it recovers fast but doesn't stay low? I'm thinking this might be due to coolant capacity over cooling capacity. I didn't beat on it too much, but did a few 2 to 3 pulls. Only halfway thru 3 really. IAT2's were already spiking to 120F by then. ~70F outside temp. I really just need to take it out and do a full 1/8th mile pull and see where it puts me. When cruising, IAT2s stayed below 95F. I turned off the fans while driving, and let it creep to 105F. Turned them back on and within 5-10 seconds they were back to 95F. So its definitely working but I'm not sure its enough to keep up when under WOT.
View attachment 47232

I hit 150+ on track with the stock DF heat exchanger. I went with a larger heat exchanger and more holding capacity and will see if it helped this summer.

 

[jirwin]

Got the exhaust back yesterday. Its now running a ZZP Silencer cone and ZZP Ultraquiet Resonator. Perfect sound. It cruises with a nice tone and when you floor it it doesn't sound raspy like it did. Very happy with how it turned out. I just need to polish it now. Sound clip: https://streamable.com/pyhb4c

 

[Rttoys]

I like that. It sounds good

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Nice! Doesn't sound anything like a Honda with a fart can on it!

 

[Metal Mech]

I love your exhaust. I think I’m gonna copy it if you don’t mind. If you can link me to the parts you bought I’d appreciate it.

 

[jirwin]

I love your exhaust. I think I’m gonna copy it if you don’t mind. If you can link me to the parts you bought I’d appreciate it.

You can buy pretty much everything but the 3" stainless pipe itself from them:

• ZZP Shorty Header
• O2 bung (if running wideband)
• ZZP 3" UltraQuiet Resonator
• ZZP 3" Sound Reducer Cone Insert
• LSJ Exhaust Flange
• 3" stainless piping for the rest

My original design was fully custom and had tighter bends. I would have preferred that, but for the second version I just used one of ZZP's universal bends because it was easier and cheaper.

 

[Robinjo]

View attachment 47284

Schwing…..

 

[jirwin]

Gladwin was a blast yet again! Still undefeated! Went 3 for 3. It was hot and the IAT2s were way up there the last run so I called it at that. I need an ice tank. Best time was 7.804 at 101mph. The last video I even managed to get a 0.023s reaction time

Race 1: https://streamable.com/bcxrej
Race 2: https://streamable.com/ima4m1
Race 3: https://streamable.com/ejjiwb

 

[jirwin]

Well.... I messed up by trying to cheap out. I want a set of drag tires... so I ordered a set a long time ago. When I went and got tires mounted on the truck the other day, I brought them too. I bought Mickey Thompson drag slicks and their tubes. Well, it turns out their tubes have a larger bore valve stem. This is supposedly to prevent the valve stem from ripping off if you really hook.

So... what do y'all thing I sound do?

• Attempt to have a machine shop bore out the valve stem hole?
• Attempt to bore it out myself with a drill?
• Get a regular tube and hope for the best?
• Buy new rims that support the bigger bore?
  • Reuse the current ones and buy 2 more to make it a full set. 15's would give me more tire options... my R1R 225/50R16's are STILL on backorder from February.

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Buy a set of cheap(er) rims to mount the drag slicks and modify as needed. If you drill out the valvestem hole, chamfer the edges so they are not sharp/square to prevent cutting/chafing of the valve stem rubber.

 

[jirwin]

Thats what I did. I have 2 MST rims and they don't have that size hole. I'm a bit worried its not even possible to drill because its so close to the "barrel" of the wheel already.

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Drill it from the inside toward the outside.

 

[jirwin]

I looked into drilling but that will be close as is. Theres also a valve stem but for the outside. Its bigger than the lip. Did some reading and I'm just going to do the old drag racer trick of adding dawn dish soap to the inside and not running tubes. The cars light afterall

 

[jirwin]

New rear tires. Yokohama Advan A052. 20mm wider than previous setup (205 Tokyo Proxes R1R). I still need to address the camber and toe to prevent wear, but I'm going to go om a short 50 mile drive tonight and see how they hold up.

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Get that alignment done! You don't want to waste that expensive rubber on the road if it's not beneficial to handling and ride balance!

 

[jirwin]

Its pretty good right now honestly. Its just after the camber bolt that let go on the last setup, I want to be sure I get this go around good.

Testing wise they hold full power in second, which is better than before!

 

[jirwin]

Well Murphy's Law strikes again. Was going to put the car in a car show tomorrow and it suddenly won't start. Throwing a U2100 and the theft light (yellow lock with car?) is on when I plug in the speedometer. The fuel gauge on the speedo was also intermittent so I think between that and the U2100 its gotta be one of the GM LAN wires or just the key reader module thing. I tried jumping the starter, key on, and it cranked, but no spark. Any insight appreciated. Cars just been sitting and ran when parked. I messed around with the dash, but that's it.

 

[Ross]

U2100 is a general loss of communication between the ECBM and other CPU's, could be the fuse, corroded connector or worst an ECBM failure.
Do you have 60 ohms resistance from pin 6 to 14 of the OBDii port? (Checking if the two 120 ohm terminating resistors are in place.)
This map shows the remaining computers on our GM high speed LAN.
Basically it is OBDii port goes to the Power Steering, then the BCM, then the PCM. Some cars have a TCM in there too.

 

[Scott Geyer]

That's what I'm going through. I'm going to start with putting larger gauge bolts and spacers to see if that works

 

[jirwin]

Figured it out. The bundle of wires going up the frame above the steering column has a bunch of zip ties. I undid a few of those messing with my dash. Well, turns out whatever can bus wire (if I remember correctly from the wiring harness videos it's the bunch of green wires you tie together?) had a disconnect, only when moved a certain way. All I did this morning was wiggle the wires until the dash stopped reading all dashes ------------ and the fuel gauge turned back on. I gingerly sat it down and got in and started it. So now I'm just working on stripping back the harness to find the short.