V1 Josh's City Goblin - 10 XFE Donor

[ah.b.normal]

Just wow. Grounds and fire all in one post set. I'm thinking there needs to be a photo essay of "All the Grounds you'll love to have" and another regarding fire. (Well, I may have beat the other to death verbally by now?) But "Grounds", can't have too many!, It's a Thing peoples! Great E85 coverage! O happy day.

 

[Dsteinhorst]

I put 2 M6 to M8 studs in to guaruntee alignment of the manifold and phenolic.

Like these?

I used these on all my intake fasteners except the long ones. Not quite as stepped as they look, but it makes for a nice transition.

 

[jirwin]

Like these?
View attachment 42995
I used these on all my intake fasteners except the long ones. Not quite as stepped as they look, but it makes for a nice transition.

Yep pretty much! I think I'm going to snag a couple more long ones for the 2 long studs as well as the M6 ones walked around a bit while tightening.

I never really paid attention to them until I got the head ported. Would be silly to have it misaligned when its port matched to the gasket

 

[jirwin]

Can someone with an LAP confirm for me that they are seeing anything other than 13.1 psi as a value for Barometric Pressure in HPTuners?

I was adding a calculated value for boost pressure, but 13.1 psi barometric pressure is not accurate. I don't think I've ever seen the value change, so I'm thinking that I either wired something wrong, or the ECU is always showing that value. The barometric pressure here being near sea level is basically 14.7 psi at all times.

 

[Joebob]

Can someone with an LAP confirm for me that they are seeing anything other than 13.1 psi as a value for Barometric Pressure in HPTuners?
View attachment 43056

I was adding a calculated value for boost pressure, but 13.1 psi barometric pressure is not accurate. I don't think I've ever seen the value change, so I'm thinking that I either wired something wrong, or the ECU is always showing that value. The barometric pressure here being near sea level is basically 14.7 psi at all times.

I guess it depends on what altitude you are at. I was logging barometric pressure early in my tuning but stopped after constantly seeing 14.3psi at 100ft above sea level in Houston. I do have an LE5 but computer wise I think it is the same as the LAP

 

[jirwin]

Had a dumb thought and I got my answer. I found a recent log where I started logging before I started the car. MAP was reading 14.1 psi and Baro was still reading 13.1 psi. I'm just going to use 14.1 as my constant as its close enough. If I have time I'll dig into why it reads 13.1 psi constantly. Hopefully nothin's wired wrong

 

[Gtstorey]

On a lot of GM’s, the barometric pressure is read by the map when the key is first turned on, prior to engine starting. Don’t know if this applies to the LAP/le5.

 

[Gtstorey]

Checked the service manual and the 2010 2.2l doesn’t show a separate barometric sensor. Either it’s measured by the MAP prior to start or it’s part of the ECM board like the LNF. My guess is the first.

 

[jirwin]

I suppose I could rea

Checked the service manual and the 2010 2.2l doesn’t show a separate barometric sensor. Either it’s measured by the MAP prior to start or it’s part of the ECM board like the LNF. My guess is the first.

That's weird that they would read different then

 

[Gtstorey]

I would expect the pressure to be different on key on and engine off from running. It just records the baro from first start up and holds it until the next koeo. You might confirm the linear and offset for you map sensor part number in the tune, And you can tweak it to get it correct if you want but 1 psi isn’t likely to cause a problem.

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

13.1 PSI equates to an altitude of about 3200 feet. Been doing much mountain driving?

 

[jirwin]

Well... the cooling issues are back. I took it out for a rip yesterday to show my dad the difference E85 made. Huge huge difference. My 0-60 was 4s without the launch control working (reset when I unplugged the battery) and the 1/8th I'm back to 90+mph. So that's great! But... as eluded to, I'm having cooling issues again. When I do a WOT pull, it will sometimes creep up in temperature after the pull. I'll watch it go 185... 190... 195... 200... 205... and then it'll creep its way back down. Thought that was weird, but just kept an eye on it. The thermostat was replaced when I rebuilt the engine, but I guess that doesn't mean anything.

Yesterday I did a full 1/8th mile pull, and a couple little hits on the way back. It started slowly creeping up above 230F. I shut er down and let it sit for a second. I had a bottle of coolant on me so I thought I'd check the res. I slowly, carefully, opened it with a towel and predictably all the air flew out, leaving just coolant. I shut it before it could spill (much). After that I hopped back in the car (which was now 215F) and started it and took off immediately. Went right back down to 185F. The most peculiar part is that I drove it home, and the next morning I opened the cap and it still wanted to blow coolant out the cap - when completely cold! Something is pressurizing the system.

My top 3 theories are as follows:
1. The coolant cap isn't bleeding pressure as intended
2. The hose going into the head is collapsing under high RPM runs (due to vacuum and a womped out hose)
3. I'm pushing the head under boost, allowing combustion gases into the cooling system, raising the temp.

I just took the valve cover off and double checked the (ARP) head stud's and a couple turned a tiny bit. No more than a quarter turn. That could definitely be contributing. Just to cover all my bases I'm going to grab a cheap coolant host spring to shove in the weak hose by the block to confirm it's not collapsing. If a local autoparts store has a coolant res cap, I'll pick one of those up too.

What do y'all make of all that?

 

[Gtstorey]

Number 1 is plausible for the pressure issue but I don't think that is going to raise the temp. But I would see if I could add a pressure gauge to the system to see how high the pressure is getting.

Not sure what hose in #2 you are talking about that might see vacuum.

#3 is possible and maybe the most likely cause of both the pressure and temperature problem. How much boost do you think you are pushing?

 

[jirwin]

I'm making 15lbs currently. I'm talking the main coolant hose coming out of the frame on the passengers side that goes into the head. It does feel pretty soft and malleable

 

[Gtstorey]

Not really any way to get a vacuum in the cooling system unless something is pretty much completely blocked. It would have to be pushing water out faster than it's able to return. You might could see it collapse some if it relieves pressure when hot and can't vent when it cools down.

Are you saying that the heads studs turned a 1/4 turn when you retorqued them? That's never good.

 

[jirwin]

Yeah maybe 3 or 4 did. That's probably my #1 theory so far

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Check the engine oil to be certain no fluid is getting into it. If the head gasket may have been allowing combustion pressure into the coolant system, it could also allow coolant into the cylinder(s) and possibly into the oil pan.

 

[jirwin]

I have been. Haven't seen any signs of coolant in the oil. Its puzzling

 

[jirwin]

Drained an ounce from the oil pan and oil came out, not water, so I think I'm good there. Put a new coolant res cap on just to rule that out. Found out the coolant res does in fact have an overflow - it just doesn't have a nipple to hook a line to (by design). Checked the torque on the head studs (twice). Gunna give it another shot! Wish me luck!

 

[jirwin]

Still did it. Didn't see the hose collapse. Could it be a lazy thermostat? Log attached.

There's a little 2/3rd gear hit at the start. You can see that after I let off the temp slowly creeps up. Its a delayed reaction. It creeps up slowly, holds for a few seconds, and then goes right back down to operating temp. Thermostat??

Edit: it should be noted that I'm still rolling at ~40mph while the temp is rising, so its not like I'm not getting airflow.