V1 LaunchPad's technology demonstrator -08 SS/TC donor- #109 registered

[comegetjoe]

Cut the aluminum cylinder to make it shorter to move the steering shaft bearing closer to the dash. Redrill the 3 mounting holes for the bracket that is installed into the cylinder. Just make sure they are offset by 60 degrees from the opposite end.
View attachment 55653

How would you move the steering wheel closer to the dash if you don't think this is the most logical means of doing so. Please elaborate.

This might help @C_Datsun as well.

I dont recall having an issue with the steering being too close for my seating position, but thanks for the Pic Sqwatch. I can visualize what you're talking about now.

 

[Markm]

Since the wife has to move the seat way forward compared to me I moved the mount down and drilled new holes. I drilled the holes as close to the dash tube as possible and figured I may need to get Allen headed bolts but made it work with standard hex bolts.

 

[LaunchPad]

Since the wife has to move the seat way forward compared to me I moved the mount down and drilled new holes. I drilled the holes as close to the dash tube as possible and figured I may need to get Allen headed bolts but made it work with standard hex bolts.

My step-daughter is going to learn to drive stick on this goblin and she is much shorter than me. the wheel is practically on her chest when she can press the clutch all the way in. I am going to file this away in my noggin for when I get past first start.

 

[Rttoys]

Put blocks on the pedals?

 

[LaunchPad]

I am still waiting for my parts- like intercooler clamps, 3rd brake light, wheel spacers, etc. Amazon keeps slipping the deliver dates back and back.

Meanwhile, I need to decide to splice or make an extension plug. . . hmm. my MAF plug is about 16 inches shy of where I want my air filter/sensor pipe. peeling it out of the harness like in the video only works if I mount the filter up by the gas hose like so many others have done and that just didn't feel feng shui for me. i have it plumped up centered on rear of engine but plugin' the sensor in will be an issue right now.

meanwhile I took some of the "wait-time" and got about 90% thru a fab up of hub stands inspired by the PACO moto stands because the stuff on the market were SILLY priced. (my capital a bit depleted due to fire truck purchase-lol)

I previously did a set of these and they worked ok but mine wear specifically set to a particular rim. I suppose they still could be modified to be more universal easy enough.

still mulling over the process for my stock seat belt covers and how the seat belt will pass thru the cover and if I need actual left hand and right hand versions or a generic one can be done. Right now I am thinking they will have to be clamshells.

 

[Waterdriver]

For alignment, this is an option without the need for all the tools typically needed. Quick to use and fairly accurate from the reviews.

Gyraline: The DIY Wheel Alignment Solution

Gyraline is an app and tool kit that allows anybody to do an extremely accurate four wheel alignment at home

gyraline.com

You just need an iPhone to use it. I would've pulled the trigger on it awhile ago but I'm a android user. They had mentioned a version for Android but the G2 version came out and it's more than double the price.

 

[Rttoys]

I have the trick kit and love it. I also have toe plates and digital meters. With both I can do anything and check to see if one is off from another, which they are both very close to the same.

 

[Markm]

I also added an inch to the accelerator pedal which helped both of us substantially. How tall is your daughter? Veronica is 5 foot even

 

[LaunchPad]

I also added an inch to the accelerator pedal which helped both of us substantially. How tall is your daughter? Veronica is 5 foot even

I think she says she is 5'3" whereas I am 6'3"- I think any adjustments likely to occur after the Goblin is fully drivable but much more probable than not. She has mentioned wanting to drive it to college. . .me thinks for attention from the boys and that sure does not need encouraged! lol

I got a massive pile of amazon packages yesterday with hose clamps and 3rd taillight and oh gosh it is like Christmas. . .snow included. Went from weird but wonderful 70 degree weather to high of 20 with a 2 foot drift across the shop door. If I can get out there a lot of incidental stuff could be wrapped up!

The Stalker brake upgrades are finally here. . .except the rear calipers need to be painted. shoot shoot shoot. Too cold to do that in the shop and stinking up the whole house will just get me in the dog house that we don't have! But otherwise I was hoping to get those installed if we went back to this colder weather.

 

[LaunchPad]

Today I am out working incidentals until the business partner shows up - likely to toss more grenades into projects but well that is just what enables a lot of my other car projects.

I spent a good part of the morning fishing the 3rd brake light wires thru the roll cage. 1 more connection and it looks like the battery can be in for final electrical testing. I sent the step daughter in to the parts store for coolant because that should be ready to fill before it quit tonight too.

The seats are bolted in! yea!!! hopefully for the last time but they may come out again for some storage compartments behind them. Seems i have a bit of room behind the seats with the amount of recline I need to have my head still in the car. lol. Looks like there is room for a 50cal and 30cal ammo can (booth now available at harbor freight) on each side if turned on end. else one each 40mm ammo can. Amazon.com: PA120 40mm Ammo Can Holder Box (Matte Olive Drab) 2 Pack - Waterproof Surplus Metal Ammo Storage Box w/Front Metal Latch, Swing-Out Handle, Used : Sports & Outdoors of course these are going to need good mounts so they do not rattle around or come loose in an accident.

what kind of emergency tools/parts would you all store onboard for a long trip?

 

[LaunchPad]

oy I noticed that the front has 300lb coils and the rear has 400. . . didnt i read that folks switch those around? or is a higher rate rear spring need to be sourced? (I have the QA1 coil over upgrades)

this is what i found online:
For upgraded coilovers on a DF Goblin, the O22J 400lb springs are generally installed on the front shocks if using rear coilovers, or O22i 300lb springs if using stock rear struts, with the stiffer springs (often 400lb-450lb) placed on the rear for improved handling and to accommodate the rear-engine weight.
Front Coilover Setup:

• Spring: O22i 300lb springs (if using stock rear) or lighter (approx. 300lb).
• Installation: Slide the spring onto the shock, add the steel washer on the spring seat, and secure with the cap, ensuring the assembly is properly seated.

Rear Coilover Setup:

• Spring: O22J 400lb springs (if upgrading rear).
• Installation: Stiffer springs (400lb-450lb) are used in the rear to handle the engine weight and prevent excessive dive.
  

Key Considerations:

• Weight Distribution: The rear requires stiffer springs because it holds the engine.
• Adjustability: Coilovers allow you to adjust ride height and pre-load.
• Fine-Tuning: If the rear is too soft, the car may oversteer; increasing rear stiffness reduces roll. YouTube +4

 

[Ross]

I like my 225/475 front springs, just for that extra soft first inch of travel. The front get the heavier 400lb/inch spring rate because of the angle they are mounted at. Actual spring rate on the wheel is less on the fronts. The 300lb springs on the rear are almost vertical, so the wheel's spring rate is ~300lb/inch.

 

[Rttoys]

What Ross said. And ditto on the 225/475 on the front, it really smooths out the goblin on the street.

 

[LaunchPad]

ok center brake light. . . where on this diagram is the supposed resister to ground? along my blue line? the thing is the blue wire I THINK should be the power wire to the 3rd brake light doe NOT come out of the fuse box unless it does so much further up the goblin HQ provided harness.

s

 

[Ross]

Your blue line should measure at 12V+ when the brakes are activated. After the CHMSL light, the black wire is ground, terminated at G401, which will be a specific grounding spot on the Cobalt.

To get your cruise control to work, builders add a 2-watt, 100-ohm resistor, with one lead of the resistor going to the black ground wire, the other will go to the light blue line you highlighted.

The CHMSL relay is located in the rear fuse box, so that light blue wire has to come out of there. Follow X2 connector, pin F5.

 

[LaunchPad]

ohhhh now THIS is handy.

MAF Extension Harness – ZZPerformance

i been racking my brain trying to build one from a replacement pigtail and not finding a male end. this is soooooo much easier and turns out cheaper than the pigtail bit

 

[Robinjo]

But cutting you harness and soldering in an extension is free ninty-free.

 

[LaunchPad]

woot woot. Drug the step daughter out to the shop this morning to bleed the clutch and brakes on the Goblin- she got a workout. lol. I was planning on doing the Stalker brakes too after its upgrades but that will have to be another day because I still have a replacement line to make for that project.

 

[LaunchPad]

Well it is day 11 of an expected 70ish for a pretty significant surgical recovery and I have not been too good at sitting still and being content just watching youtube videos of Justin Reed killin it on his races- makes me want to be out there too even more! Quite sure that I over did things a bit today but it sure made my day- perhaps even the whole of 2026 (so far)- because my Goblin started today for the first time!!! woot woot!

My girls were off visiting the step daughters grandparents so with no supervision to keep me stuck in bed I slipped out to syphon 5 gallons of gas into the tank from the can that I had had the girls stick on top of my intercooler on Friday. Then I tried cranking the key. . .no go. security light was on solid. it took a lot of trips to the office for research but eventually I sorted it out. DanPerryy thank you ever so much for the time you took to post the how to reprogram key thread!!! Programming keys | DF Kit Car Forum I got A (singular) key re-programmed and she fired right to life. I really want to do a little happy dance but the dozen or so trips hobbling from shop to basement office to look up the details has left me quite drained- too much for that anyway. Maybe use tomorrows energy for the dance? lol.

I will have to add the second key later. Not like I can just yet go anywhere today anyway. it is up on jack stands still and the wheels are all off and. . .well. . . this is a full cage Goblin so no way in my current state to slide in. lol. I had to lean on the clutch with my elbow from outside the car while twisting my key with my other hand and supporting my weight on my chin hung over the frame- but she runs!! I've had plates and insurance since last fall. . .so having my Goblin at Goblinfest this year sure seems likely!

I also need to shout out to several of the other forum members for their support thus far! DaleE, Markm, Rttoys, DesertSasquatch, Ross, Comegetjoe, i sure I hope I didn't miss someone but I likely did since so many of you top-notch folks pitch in from time-to-time with good info and motivation.

ok back to bed. I texted the 'gurls' my success and they are a bit upset I had escaped the confines of recovery and my dinner might be dependent on better behavior.

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Aw oh, you in trouble now! The girls are going to tie you into bed for a week for your surgery parole violation. But at least it was a good one and you got your Goblin started!!! yay!!!