V1 LaunchPad's technology demonstrator -08 SS/TC donor- #109 registered

[LaunchPad]

well i ordered a new MAF from ZZP and did a bit of googling on these codes and all and then back and forth to look at the car. . . P0449 and P0452 could be due to an air leak in the emissions system which is mostly limited to the gas cap. . . but i did find this- which would certainly qualify as a leak in the gas cap:

i haven't yet gone back over all the build instruction videos to see why this T was installed in the first place and i haven't gotten a chance to take the car out again to test. but meanwhile it has gotten a vacuum cap put on it.

 

[LaunchPad]

A couple other things you noted. What shifter are you using to have trouble finding 5th? And the bouncy road syndrome, I place my foot differently for bouncy roads, I try to keep my foot straighter vertical so the bouncy roads don’t effect throttle much. Also when I wear my work boots I have the issue of the side bar/shoe contact issue so when we travel in it I wear different shoes that are more narrow.

I have the goblin shifter upgrade. with only 6 miles thus far it may be a case of not getting used to the car enough or the passenger seat too far forward. I really need to go get some gas for more testing but not sure as yet i want to risk that length of drive just yet- i am quite sure there won't be enough of the "test" gas to get into town- we live pretty remotely. pretty sure the gurls did NOT get premium in the gas cans 2 days ago- why would i think they did in the first place? lol.

i think a sheet of tin on the inside of the roll cage will work for the clutch. just got to get in my head how to implement it without it looking hoakie because i won't have a body this year to speak of but in the meanwhile might cut down on a bit of debris thrown by front wheels if i mirror on both sides?

my front springs are only up about an inch from the bottom of the threads. i think more preload is necessary either way but not that it would necessarily help with the foot tapping the throttle. i haven't scraped the ground yet but can't be too far off with the bouncing because it isn't too far off parked. lol. just not sure what to aim for the not so initial inital set up.

 

[Gtstorey]

Unless something not normal happed in the build, you don’t have a pressure sensor for the tank.

The tank has to have a vent, although the T isn’t the way to do. I installed a rollover valve. But T or not, you will get a tank pressure code.

 

[Rttoys]

the evap stuff is gone. Anything associated with it is not working. That vent like needs a rollover valve like GT said.

5th can be hard to find.

 

[Gtstorey]

the evap stuff is gone. Anything associated with it is not working. That vent like needs a rollover valve like GT said.

5th can be hard to find.

Actually, I'm starting to wonder if maybe this one doesn't have an attempt to include an evap system since that hose with the T continues somewhere. But I'm not reading through 17 pages of build log to find out.

 

[Ross]

I would bet 5th gear is just the shifter being out of adjustment. Find the left/right shifter cable, and adjust.
As for the clutch pedal, I furred out the driver's side panel 2 inches, and made room for my foot rest. Later, I replaced the prototype foam with a wood blocks on the frame rails.

 

[LaunchPad]

Actually, I'm starting to wonder if maybe this one doesn't have an attempt to include an evap system since that hose with the T continues somewhere. But I'm nor reading through 17 pages of build log to find out.

well a bit of review of the assembly videos has the T installed pretty much to become the vent. a nylon tube would go from T down behind tank for over flow or roll over drain. guess the vacuum cap comes back off.

DF Goblin Assembly - Installing the Fuel Filler Neck, Vent and Cap

i am hoping to get to the car again today but i have a long back log of chores to get to if allowed by my "light duty" status from the surgeon.

 

[Rttoys]

Actually, I'm starting to wonder if maybe this one doesn't have an attempt to include an evap system since that hose with the T continues somewhere. But I'm nor reading through 17 pages of build log to find out.

Same I know some have kept evap and the cat, but other than than one local here, I can’t keep up with the rest.

 

[LaunchPad]

I would bet 5th gear is just the shifter being out of adjustment. Find the left/right shifter cable, and adjust.
As for the clutch pedal, I furred out the driver's side panel 2 inches, and made room for my foot rest. Later, I replaced the prototype foam with a wood blocks on the frame rails.

that certainly will do the job for a foot rest or "dead pedal" my big foot hangs up on the round tube diagonal there when pressing the clutch which affects the fluidity of my shifts. i may get used to it at some point with more driving but because the foot box of the goblin is super spacious compared to some of my other specialty cars i've learned to compensate on where i stick my clutch foot when not shifting so was looking at making a smooth surface along clutch travel so my foot wont hang up.

 

[LaunchPad]

Well after a whole lotta begging and pleading and generally being a thorn in her side in addition to taking her on drives and giving her friends rides the daughter finally cooperated and got some photos for me! But. . . . . she could not be bothered to actually record the video of one of our drives. Says to me, "how do you even see where you are going with the wind in your eyes?" lol. Well to be fair the Goblin needs a windshield of sorts still and a body of sorts too at some point.

Much thanks to @Robinjo who gave me the top at Goblinfest last year. Looks "snazzi" laced into the cage with backpack bungi cord. We put 25mm wheel spacers on the rear which helped the former 'narrow old-man butt look'. Running with my Pontiac Solstice wheels for now until I find a suit case of $100 bills for the new rims and tires I want to standardize across 6 different projects. lol I am not a fan of chrome but they work for now in this application.

Somewhere around 30 miles so far. Even after replacing the MAF with a new ZZP one the p0100 comes back. Also there is a ZZP MAF extension harness but it looks to be dang near perfect. Could my filter be restricting airflow? or the MAF be too close to the elbow?

Also still cannot get to 5th at all. Reverse is slick and easy. I need to go review the shifter assembly videos because something seems off about the "lockout". . .unfortunately the seats have to come out to get to the shifter and the top has to come off to get to the seats. oy!

There is much to do and driving season has started around here! Things like seat belt mechanism covers and a real body will be waiting at least until the season is over. Things like windshield and front nose clip with grill/ front plate mount may be accelerated.

 

[Gtstorey]

check direction of the MAF.

Beyond that it's likely a wiring issue. Probably need to check the service manual for conditions to set the dtc and diagnostic steps.

With the location of the air filter, you will likely need to tune the car before it runs well. And you likely need to wait for the windshield install since that will likely change the airflow. But I doubt that is setting the P0100.

 

[LaunchPad]

arrow points to turbo inlet

 

[David]

I recently saw a video regarding MAF placement. You want a certain distance before and after. That is the reason on my setup I extended to have enough straight run before the sensor.

 

[Gtstorey]

I recently saw a video regarding MAF placement. You want a certain distance before and after. That is the reason on my setup I extended to have enough straight run before the sensor.

This makes the MAF function better but isn't likely to be the cause of the P0100. A honeycomb air straightener can also (possibly) help

I can't tell if the MAF is located just after the air filter or if there is pcv hose attached at that point. If that is something that can introduce oil to the intake, it needs to be after the MAF. If that is an oiled filter, do not over oil it.

 

[LaunchPad]

This makes the MAF function better but isn't likely to be the cause of the P0100. A honeycomb air straightener can also (possibly) help

I can't tell if the MAF is located just after the air filter or if there is pcv hose attached at that point. If that is something that can introduce oil to the intake, it needs to be after the MAF. If that is an oiled filter, do not over oil it.

the MAF is after the elbow with the sensor pointing at the front of the car. hose up near the filter is crank case vent i think which sure could introduce some oil- it comes out the head in a braided stainless steel and ends in fuel type fitting - can be seen right under first clamp on the 90 elbow moving away from the filter. i didn't want to drill the MAF tubing for the vent. i can replace the pipe up near the filter with a solid and tap the U for the vent line. i think i will unplug the line and cap the fitting first to see if the error stays away.

filter came "pre-oiled" so that is what it is currently.

 

[Gtstorey]

MAFs are easily oil fouled.

 

[LaunchPad]

plugged for now and line has been zip tied to the frame so it just drips. waiting on some cleaner before i go on another test drive.

meanwhile, re-watched the shifter assembly video. nothing to note. goes into reverse just fine so at a loss as to why it wont go into 5th. the lockout thing on the DF shifter doesn't prevent a reverse shift or apparently anything at all so this screams something is off. unfortunately, because i cant work the shifter and see the transmission end of the cables this is a 2 person job and i am solo for the time being

 

[LaunchPad]

its been three days since I took the Goblin out for a test drive and grab an ice cream with a friend while my girls were in the SUV behind us. Still trying to calm my nerves. . . I was passing a slow pickup truck at about 60ish on a 2 lane country road. Around here they have what I call rumble strips in the middle, even in passing zones- kind of like a dozer track right down the center of the painted line. None of my performance cars like these things very much at all and the rears shimmy a LOT in every one of them- short cars with wide wheelbase and wide tires. Well the Goblin took that to a whole new level and just about rolled onto its roof with 3 extremely wicked oscillations before I could get the car back into some semblance of control. no sign of the issue below this speed - it really reared its head out of no where! I am sure it scared the pickup driver that nearly got sideswiped 3 times and the raccoons sitting in the trees along side the road we took some leaves off because we used every inch of the pavement from side to side plus some. my passenger let something foul out the back side that the speed couldn't fully outrun and my nervous system has yet to fully dump that WRONG kind of adrenaline 3 days later. The wife has said she is absolutely NOT getting in the "death trap" and right now I don't blame her one bit. oy!!

The steering at highway speed is entirely too twitchy and fast right now. Any wiggle what-so-ever in the steering well gets the Goblin feeling like it is wanting to roll onto its back. I've seen suggestions that a rack from a NA car would be a tiny bit slow-er and the Goblin could definitely gain a bit from that I think. due to funding issues and seasonal time constraints that kinda thing will have to wait until after Goblinfest. the car has places to be meantime if I can keep from wrecking it.

I have been searching the forums for answers where I find a lot of suggestions but nothing terribly firm. . . .looks like I should add some more toe to the front AND rear. . .the last adjustment I had made was removing the rear tow because of obvious scrub on the rear tires. I also turned the dampening up 3 clicks from the bottom- I am not sure WHY I had it turned all the way down. the rear arms have the moog solid bushings in the rear mount and heavy durometer polys on the front half. 400lb springs are on the front of the car and the 300s on the rear as many have suggested. Castor up front is at a solid 9

 

[Gtstorey]

Probably the best way to slow down the steering;
Saturn Vue Chevy Equinox Electric Power Steering Electronic Controller Box EPAS | Power Steering Pump | Electrical with the correct EPS. Not perfect but works pretty good.

As far as alignment settings, sounds like you are just going to have to make small adjustments until you find what works for you.

 

[David]

Probably the best way to slow down the steering;
Saturn Vue Chevy Equinox Electric Power Steering Electronic Controller Box EPAS | Power Steering Pump | Electrical with the correct EPS. Not perfect but works pretty good.

As far as alignment settings, sounds like you are just going to have to make small adjustments until you find what works for you.

That only work with the Vue EPS correct?