V1 Mayor West's 09 SS/TC Ext. Track Turbo #191 [South Carolina] [Registered] [Sold]

[Rttoys]

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When attaching straps around tank be careful of end of strap doesn’t scratch your new paint work

X2
glad it’s fairly hidden.

 

[Mayor West]

Started assembly on Friday finally, I took my time waiting to get it painted. I'm a little through video 18 now. Thankful for @OptimizePrime and his words of wisdom helping me avoid headaches from his recently finished kit. Lots of great advice.

So far everything is going fairly smoothly. Only missing a one screw clamp so far. The lazer cut panels aren't the best fit, especially the bulkhead one. That's currently proving to need some massaging and that sucks because it's already powder coated.

I wish DF hadn't used so many hex head bolts, they're a pain to use.

I also set up my powder coating wall oven and got some of the smaller brackets done. Pretty pleased with the results. Black Cast is a fantastic color.

 

[OptimizePrime]

I do have to leave you with a few headaches so you get the full experience

Looking good mahn!

 

[Zoom Zoom]

I agree once you get started you are knocking it out fast

 

[Mayor West]

Having a 2 month old and a 20 month old means I don't get to work on this as often as I'd love to, however tonight I was able to get some work done.

I installed the fuel tank, fuel sender, and straps. I took @Zoom Zoom's advice and protected my tank from the straps scratching it, thanks for the tip!

I tidied up the harness in the front area but didn't fully install/plug everything in yet.

I installed the swivel ends on the a-arms and installed the passenger-side arms. I have to say, that bottom a-arm would have been a lot easier to install if I had done it prior to putting in the BCM and steering rack in. I couldn't get a socket on it to torque it down it was so tight in there.

I didn't get around to doing the coil-over's yet, I don't have a good set of snap ring pliers nor do I have any anti-seize.

I alumawelded an AN-16 fitting onto my thermostat housing but I am extremely nervous to actually use it. I'm not certain how I'm going to work about the AN-16 line without spending a billion dollars on AN-16 fittings. I bought 4 aluminum weld-on bungs and planned on alumawelding them to the engine and radiator, but I'm not sure I trust the stuff even though I've watched a bunch of youtube videos and they all hold up well. I'm afraid I'll burn a hole in the radiator while heating it up.

I have a few to-do's to knock out in the hood area such as:

• My kit didn't come with the two silver screw clamps for the brake hose extension, so I need to go get some new ones
• I broke one of the 45 degree brass fittings on the brake relocation kit, need to get another.
• My brake pedal sensor sheared the bolt off inside it. I have a backup but I need to replace the bolt.
  • +1 on the bummer scale for already having to replace my clutch pedal and needing a Tech2 :'(
• I bought Brad R's ignition switch replacement board and I'm not 100% sure what I want to do with it yet
  • However, I did grind off the circle clamp thing on the ignition switch like everyone else is going

 

[Ark :D]

Yeah, those position sensors are real buggers. The car won't even start without those correctly calibrated, is that correct? What's your plan to remedy that? I'll probably follow in your footsteps on that one.

 

[OptimizePrime]

Did you end up modifying your fuel pump so the lever doesn't get stuck?

HF for the snap ring pliers

 

[Mayor West]

Yeah, those position sensors are real buggers. The car won't even start without those correctly calibrated, is that correct? What's your plan to remedy that? I'll probably follow in your footsteps on that one.

Need a tech2 and that's my only option. Jumping poles on the starter will get it cranked but it's not a long term solution.

Did you end up modifying your fuel pump so the lever doesn't get stuck?

HF for the snap ring pliers

Yeah, I flipped the pump around. I just haven't gotten around to getting a new set of ring priers, the ones I have are the super adjustable ones so they're really flimsy.

 

[Vwsaabvt]

• I broke one of the 45 degree brass fittings on the brake relocation kit, need to get another.

I didn't use mine, they are yours if you want.

 

[Mayor West]

I didn't use mine, they are yours if you want.

I think shipping them would cost more than it would be for me to run down to Lowe's and get new ones, thank you though!

 

[Ark :D]

Need a tech2 and that's my only option. Jumping poles on the starter will get it cranked but it's not a long term solution.

What's your plan for that? Are you going to buy one? Borrow one?

 

[Mayor West]

What's your plan for that? Are you going to buy one? Borrow one?

There are Chinese clones for 300 bucks on Amazon but I'm not 100% sure they would do it because I need software as well, which has been cracked AFAIK but I am not sure I want to spend the cheddar to find out.

Taking a trip to GM to have them do it may be easiest and cheapest.

 

[RouteAbel]

Is it just the clutch sensor that has to be paired or does the brake sensor as well?

 

[Mayor West]

I think both, they're potentiometers and have to be zero'd out with the new sensor if replaced.

 

[Ross]

You could run a wire to the solenoid.... hot wire the starter. Have a hidden switch to power.
Cheaper than a tech2.

 

[Rttoys]

There are Chinese clones for 300 bucks on Amazon but I'm not 100% sure they would do it because I need software as well, which has been cracked AFAIK but I am not sure I want to spend the cheddar to find out.

Taking a trip to GM to have them do it may be easiest and cheapest.

2 of my friends have the China tech2 and both work well. I have the real deal, because I work on gm vehicles. They all seem to basically work the same.

I’m not sure where you are located, but if you are anywhere near Houston, I’d be willing to help out with it if you want.

If you go to the dealer to calibrate it, also ask them to change your tire pressure sensor settings.

 

[Mayor West]

2 of my friends have the China tech2 and both work well. I have the real deal, because I work on gm vehicles. They all seem to basically work the same.

I’m not sure where you are located, but if you are anywhere near Houston, I’d be willing to help out with it if you want.

If you go to the dealer to calibrate it, also ask them to change your tire pressure sensor settings.

What's the deal with the software part and the Chinese versions? Do they have to do anything special? I'm in SC but thanks for the offer.

Why mention the tire pressure sensors? I removed all of mine.

 

[Rttoys]

I’m asking my friends on your first question.

to the other one; When JBINTX (Jason) brought his goblin over, I noticed his TPMS light on due to too low of pressure, but the pressures were reading. If I didn’t have a brain fart at the time, I could have gone into his seatbelt module and set the pressures lower for him so the light would go out. I figured yours would be the same. I don’t have TPMS on mine, so I’m clear.

 

[Rttoys]

They said you just order it with GM programming, but can verify with them it will work for the cobalt.

it *should* work on any GM vehicle from about 92 and up. 96 will be obdII and you will need a Candi module for anything 06 and up though, including the cobalt.

 

[Rttoys]

They both say it should work with the GM card, but may be at a minimum. One of my friends has a cruze amd says data is at a minimum with that, but works on his other 2 trucks. My other friend Says it works on his trucks, Camaro and GXP. Worse comes to worse, you’ll have to order the Saab card, too.

I know my real deal tech2 works on our Cobalts.