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V1 Mikes Extended, Full Frame Goblin - 2009 Cobalt LS with 135k donor
Rauq
Goblin Guru
- Rauq Goblin Guru
Clutch and flywheel will need to match the hub on the crank which is different between the 2.2/2.4 (6 bolt) and 2.0 (8 bolt). Axles and hubs will work just fine since you're not changing the trans. I believe later model donors have potentiometer sensors on the clutch and brake pedals, early models have two open/close switches on each, the pedal box will have to be swapped. You will also need to keep your base model thermostat housing instead of the LSJ thermostat housing and may need two coolant tees to tie the oil cooler in to the coolant line, there's details on that in my build thread that I can dig up if you need. If you're keeping the supercharger, your main cooling line to the frame (pass side) may need to be reworked anyway. That's just off the top of my head.
- mike_sno Goblin Guru
So, it seems to get real. I hope to have the engine next weekend.
I just walked around the car and watched the installation video. Before I do stupid things: Does this sounds right:
1. Lift the tail of the car.
2. Take the wheels off
3. Disconnect rear break lines, I guess I bleed them or so.
4. Disconnect the coolant hose and get the coolant out of the system.
5. Disconnect the exhaust.
6. Disconnect the all electronics.
7. Disconnect the coilover from the frame
8. Disconnect the subframe ( I guess only 4 points where it's connected to the frame?
9. Disconnect the engine from the frame.
10. lift the Frame and pull the engine out to the back.
Does that sound about right?
I just walked around the car and watched the installation video. Before I do stupid things: Does this sounds right:
1. Lift the tail of the car.
2. Take the wheels off
3. Disconnect rear break lines, I guess I bleed them or so.
4. Disconnect the coolant hose and get the coolant out of the system.
5. Disconnect the exhaust.
6. Disconnect the all electronics.
7. Disconnect the coilover from the frame
8. Disconnect the subframe ( I guess only 4 points where it's connected to the frame?
9. Disconnect the engine from the frame.
10. lift the Frame and pull the engine out to the back.
Does that sound about right?
Desert Sasqwatch
Bigfoot Goblin
- Desert Sasqwatch Bigfoot Goblin
Disconnect the transmission shifter cable(s)
Disconnect clutch hydraulic line - if a manual
Disconnect clutch hydraulic line - if a manual
Mahkoi
Goblin Guru
- Mahkoi Goblin Guru
When disconnecting the sub frame, the rear bolts that go through the control arms sometimes like to stick in the control arm bushing while unthreading and may push the caged nut up while unthreading rather than dropping the bolt down then it turns into a whole adventure getting the cradle out. I didn't have the issue with my donor but have encountered it while swapping control arms on a friend's cobalt. Probably more of a rust belt car issue but just a heads up.
- mike_sno Goblin Guru
Ok, so I need a new clutch anyway and I guess with that a new flywheel. Other than that, the F23 will just bolt on the LSJ?
Another few questions regarding the weight of the car. Since my car is already assembled, how heavy is the frame, will I still be able to lift that thing with a friend over the engine?
And what‘s in general the weight distribution of the car? I am planning to buy some weight sensor for corner balancing the car and was wondering what the maximum weight per tire would be. Assuming the rear axle is the heavier side.
Another few questions regarding the weight of the car. Since my car is already assembled, how heavy is the frame, will I still be able to lift that thing with a friend over the engine?
And what‘s in general the weight distribution of the car? I am planning to buy some weight sensor for corner balancing the car and was wondering what the maximum weight per tire would be. Assuming the rear axle is the heavier side.
Rauq
Goblin Guru
- Rauq Goblin Guru
You will need a base model thermostat housing and two tees to re-plumb the coolant lines to the oil cooler, see here. Besides that, yes, the input shaft is the same between F35 and F23, the bellhousing bolt pattern is the same, etc.
I've been thinking about trying these out for corner balancing over the winter. I've heard <1600lb without driver and about 2/3 rear weight bias, so decent chance 660 per corner on the rear would get the job done.
I've been thinking about trying these out for corner balancing over the winter. I've heard <1600lb without driver and about 2/3 rear weight bias, so decent chance 660 per corner on the rear would get the job done.
- mike_sno Goblin Guru
I was thinking of those load cells. Just need to build something to support them.
www.makerfabs.com
S-Type Load Cell(100kg/200kg/300kg/500kg/1T)
This S-Type load cell (sometimes called a strain gauge) can translate up to 1T(100kg/200kg/300kg/500kg/1T selectable) of pressure (force) into an electrical signal. Each load cell is able to measure the electrical resistance that changes in response and proportion to the strain (e.g., pressure or
www.makerfabs.com
- mike_sno Goblin Guru
Alright, got the engine in my mini van. Picked up an unsliced harness, BCM, ECU,… and got me the SS Steering rack.
Now, I wasn‘t expecting that i had to slice the harness. Question: Do i need anything else besides the videos to do it? From watching the videos, I hope that I can identify the different connectors, as non of them are labeled. If that‘s all, I think I should be able to do it.
Now, I wasn‘t expecting that i had to slice the harness. Question: Do i need anything else besides the videos to do it? From watching the videos, I hope that I can identify the different connectors, as non of them are labeled. If that‘s all, I think I should be able to do it.
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