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V1 Mikes Extended, Full Frame Goblin - 2009 Cobalt LS with 135k donor

M
While waiting on my new harness I made some 0-60 runs today. Torque pro mentioned 7.7s, but if I look at the Gopro I run at 5.5seconds. The gopro is a bit earlier on 60mph with GPS. Not to bad for the 2.2 NA engine.
 
M
I'll hopefully recieve the original harness today. I was wondering if it would be possible to keep the tire pressure sensor system. Has that been done?
 
M
Sure.

Search is your friend!
I researched this topic quite a bit not only here also in other forums, but what I have found out so far is not sufficient. I belive the reciever of the TPMS and the keyless go reciever is one and the same unit. Must have been somewhat close to the steering column in a cobalt.
 
Ark :D
They are the same unit. It was located somewhere in the dash of the Cobalt, yes.

I keep forgetting you didn't build your car. The TPMS box is covered in the videos.
 
M
Ah, ok I'll double check the videos again.

If it's just this one reciever, it doesn't seem to be to difficult to keep tpms alive. Any other reason why this isn't the case?
 
Ark :D
Ah, ok I'll double check the videos again.

If it's just this one reciever, it doesn't seem to be to difficult to keep tpms alive. Any other reason why this isn't the case?

Maybe the builder didn't want it. We run lower tires pressures than the Cobalt, below the threshold of what the TPMS feels is safe, by default. So unless you set your tire pressures lower with HP Tuners, you'll always have a low tire pressure light on.
 
G
Maybe the builder didn't want it. We run lower tires pressures than the Cobalt, below the threshold of what the TPMS feels is safe, by default. So unless you set your tire pressures lower with HP Tuners, you'll always have a low tire pressure light on.
In addition, I think the Cobalt system only knows good or low, it's not a system that gives actual pressure. So yes, useless on the Goblin.
 
KSLunsfo
I'm fairly certain HPTuners cannot access anything pertaining to the TPMS, someone correct me if I'm wrong...

For a while a forum member here was working on a TPMS 'programmer' that would allow you to change the TPMS threshold among other nifty things. But it has never made it to full fruition.
 
M
I do believe my head unit shows a psi reading. The lower than safe number I understand, it's the ECU limiting power in that case? My Beamer does that.

Lower pressure or no sensor result both in a yellow warning in the dash, or?
 
G
Missed the comment about HPT changing the TPMS and that is a no. HPT will only work contacts certain modules, ECM, TCM, and FPCM.

I could be wrong about the display of actual pressure since I haven't paid to much attention since I own a tire gauge and my car didn't have sensors in it to start with. But either way the tire warning light will be on.
 
M
Alright, I need some help.

1. I looked through the diagrams, but I can not find the connector layout for the large connectors which go to the fuse box in the diagram. I would love to see the pinout and the labeling of the pins, as they mention the pins in the video quite often.

2. I am removing the break control connector. Minute 1:40 of this video
.
Which one of this is the tan and brown wire? and I don't think I have the vacuum connector he is talking about. The second from the left blue cable goes to the fuse box. All other cables doesn't look like they would go to the vacuum sensor.
20231018_211850 - Copy.jpg
 
Desert Sasqwatch
Off the bat, the two sets on the RH side are tan and black twisted pairs (LAN). The two fat red or red and white wires in the middle are 12V hot wires. The fat black wire on the LH side is ground wire. Not certain what the rest are, don't have the harness schematics and not certain which harness you are working on.
 
M
I hope that this one is the break control connector. I took some other pictures. It looks a bit different to the one in the video ( the red spacer is missing) but that part might be just lost. The connector is close to the under hood fuse box. I think it's the right connector I am working on. Wish I had bought a better labeled harness :D.
43531
43532
 
RCK605
You can always do what you are certain of in the video and then move on. A lot of times later in the video or the next video they have you thin more wires and the previous steps either make more sense or work themselves out. Its better to leave a wire you don't need than to cut one out you do.
 
A
The only one you don't need to modify/combine is the engine harness. There's a body harness, a dash harness, and a headlight harness that get combined.

Ain't that the awful truth! (Plus you get to cut out and throw away the HVAC, sunroof, XM, Radio, speakers, Antenna, Amp, Wipers, On-star, ABS, SRS+ belts and side curtains, int lighting, electric door locks, elec windows, door ajar, elec door mirrors, rear defog, trunk release and trunk light sub-harnesses! Plus about 10' of grounds.)
 
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M
You can always do what you are certain of in the video and then move on. A lot of times later in the video or the next video they have you thin more wires and the previous steps either make more sense or work themselves out. Its better to leave a wire you don't need than to cut one out you do.
That's what I did. I guess Toyota principle, wait with a problem as long as possible and hope to find out more over time :D

Removed the driver side door plug so far. Friday night I will work on the airbag plug.

Questions:
What is with all the ground wires? E.G. the big black ground wire from the driver door. The video says to remove all wires, but in the video it looks like he is leaving the black wire uncut.
 
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