V1 P1682 driver 5 line 2 CEL on

[Robf]

Looking for some help in figuring out this issue. Some context.
I recently got done installing a supercharger to my 07 2.2l l61 engine. In doing so I connected my intercooler pump to the IP ignition fuse for key on power. I was having some running issues so I changed the pump fuse location to abs2. The front heat exchanger fan was connected to the wiper fuse location in the bcm. While getting the car running correct I've noted a p1682 code. I tried swapping out my fuse box with an old one I had and the issue persisted. I also swapped out the ignition switch which wasn't the issue and returned the part.

I have another bcm and ecm from another 07 cobalt 2.2l is it safe to swap out bcm and ecms together without the anti theft issue coming into play?

Is this code being set due to the power draw from the intercooler pump and heat exchanger fan on ignition on power? Any other suggestions on fixing the code or is it not a big deal. I can clear it and turn off the code with hp tuners.

 

[Rttoys]

I’m not familiar with that code, but if the pump and fan are the culprit, rewire them using relays. Let the bcm trigger the relays and make independent circuits off the battery.

 

[Ross]

Clear the p1682 code, then pull the fuses for the intercooler pump and heat exchanger fan, see if the p1682 comes back.
It won't cool the intercooler this way, but you can still drive it.

 

[Robf]

Clear the p1682 code, then pull the fuses for the intercooler pump and heat exchanger fan, see if the p1682 comes back.
It won't cool the intercooler this way, but you can still drive it.

It looks like the relay option is the way to go. I'm getting the code only if the intercooler pump or the fan is plugged in. The process of elimination is always nice. It was just strange as I wasn't having that issue until a couple days after I was done with the supercharger install.

 

[Gtstorey]

Yes use independent relays. P1682 is set when the two different ignition feeds to the ECM have different voltages. You probably overloaded one of the feeds causing a voltage drop on it. You were probably close to blowing a fuse, or worse burning out something in the ECM. Everything that is added needs a relay unless you are sure that it pulls less amperage than the original load. And never add the load to something that is already carrying it’s original load.

 

[Robf]

Yes use independent relays. P1682 is set when the two different ignition feeds to the ECM have different voltages. You probably overloaded one of the feeds causing a voltage drop on it. You were probably close to blowing a fuse, or worse burning out something in the ECM. Everything that is added needs a relay unless you are sure that it pulls less amperage than the original load. And never add the load to something that is already carrying it’s original load.

Whats the issue with running 1 relay to a mini fuse block that supplies power on ignition on? That one relay to a fuse block will then power my pump, fan and gauges. I was thinking a 20 amp main fuse. With a 5,5,2 mini fuses.

 

[Gtstorey]

I really meant independent of the oem circuits other than for signal on.

I would expect the fan and pumps to pull more than 5 amps each, especially at initial startup. Bu maybe not depending on the actual pump and fan.

 

[Robf]

I guess the fan draws 6.5 and the pump 6. So both 10amp fuses with a 2 amp gauge fuse wired to a block that is supplied with a 25 amp fuse off a relay. That should work right?

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Start up current draw on the fan and pump are typically at least double the amperage for a 1/2 second or more. I recommend 15 amp circuit/fuses for both of these.

 

[Rttoys]

Start up current draw on the fan and pump are typically at least double the amperage for a 1/2 second or more. I recommend 15 amp circuit/fuses for both of these.

I have upgraded my fans to spal. The ic fan pulls 13a on startup and 6a continuous. I can’t remember the exact amperage, but the Df supplied fans pull much less amperage than the spal. A 20a dedicated circuit should run the fan and pump.

 

[Robf]

8awg wire coming off the battery with an in line 40amp fuse into a 40amp relay to pin 30, 86 to ignition power, 87 to the fuse block, 85 to a switch on the dash that then grounds to the knee area ground post.

I'll then add 10amp fuse at the block 16awg double wire to go from the fuse block to the IC pump which draws 6amps.

Then another to the fan which according to the website draws a max of 6.6amps with another 10amp fuse.

I'm looking at a 300watt speaker setup as well. Adding 25 amps of power along with the 6 for the fan and 6 for the IC pump I'm pushing the 40amp relay max output. Do I then setup a second relay with an inline fuse for the speaker or add it into the fuse block?

 

[Gtstorey]

You might want to think about whether you want any of your loads controlled by a switch, but if not, what you are proposing should work.

 

[Robf]

You might want to think about whether you want any of your loads controlled by a switch, but if not, what you are proposing should work.

I guess my thought was is to have the relay control the added fuse panel and have it switched at the dash of the car. So while diagnosing issues with key ignition on I can turn off all extra key on components that aren't factory. Like the fan and ic pump. My sticky note drawing kind of sucks

 

[Gtstorey]

I wasn’t trying to say to not put them on a switch. I didn’t pick that up on your diagram. I would recommend having at least the fan and pump switched.