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V1 Pisco's extended city goblin #220 (2009 SS/TC donor) Registered
Rauq
Goblin Guru
- Rauq Goblin Guru
In my experience, if a pressure bleeder causes a fluid leak between the reservoir and the clutch master (or the brake master), it was probably going to leak on its own (albeit more slowly).
Did you put anything on the brass barbs that go into the adapter blocks? I had a slow drip from the threads on one of those brass barbs (don't recall exactly where this point), and came across Lonny's suggestion that those threads get a bit of loctite, which cleared that slow leak up for me.
- Gtstorey Goblin Guru
I didn't like the thought of using barbed fittings at this location, so I used braided line with permanent fittings. Something similar to this, although I don't remember exactly what combination of fittings and ends I used.
Allstar ALL46420-18 18" #4 Braided Line -4 Straight / 1/8" NPT | eBay
Allstar ALL46420-18 18" #4 Braided Line -4 Straight / 1/8" NPT | eBay
pisco
Well-Known Member
- pisco Well-Known Member
That was my initial thought actually, I used loctite on them but had to tighten them a bit to clock them at a better angle and, it's off branded so I wasn't sure if I was supposed to use primer or not.
Anyway I did a test, cleaned up all the residue spotless and set plastic, shop rags and then several layers of paper towels on the tunnel and floor pan to catch where it was for sure, both hoses were dripping but closer inspection revealed a puddle on the top of the aluminum block and runs down the backside and down the pedal box. I should have taken pics before cleaning it up. I believe the O rings are undersized or dried out. I will disassemble and inspect if the outlets in the bottom of the reservoir are out of round or out of spec. Once I have a measurement I'll order thick O rings or order a replacement.
I may also get some green 680 to seal the threads...
pisco
Well-Known Member
- pisco Well-Known Member
I didn't get much free time over the weekend, but ended up working on the car for about 2 hours Monday evening. My dad was over and I got the bung for the AEM wideband in the muffler and test fitted. I then started the car for the first time since april 28 when I did 1st start. It ran like hot garbage, studdered and died, fired it back up and tapped the throttle, it revved a couple hundred rpm and then idled rough! It started making noises I didn't like so I shut it off quick. Now I'm paranoid so I will flash the tune and try again soon. It will be a busy week so not much time will be given to the goblin but I am going to work on the brake lines a bit tonight. I will at least draw and print templates for the gauges and brake proportion valve.
comegetjoe
Goblin Guru
- comegetjoe Goblin Guru
Battery disconnected, right? When I flashed my tune for my first start up with all my mods, the car ran like dookie until the car slowly picked up what it was supposed to do. It hiccuped, stuttered, bucked and carried on in all sorts of concerning manners, but cleared itself up as seen in my first start up. I also had a big ole vacuum leak it was trying to correct for. Even now when I start it after disconnecting the battery it runs rich and choppy until it runs for a minute or so. This might help, or it might not.
- Gtstorey Goblin Guru
Adding a tune to an LNF can make it idle pretty uneven for the first few minutes. It seems to be a common problem that I've never come across the answer to. It clears up quick enough that I've never played with mine to try and fix it.
Without rereading your build log, where are you at in the build and what tune are you writing? A startup tune isn't likely to run great, or even a stock tune can struggle due to changes in the intake piping affecting the MAF.
That said, did it throw any undue codes?
Without rereading your build log, where are you at in the build and what tune are you writing? A startup tune isn't likely to run great, or even a stock tune can struggle due to changes in the intake piping affecting the MAF.
That said, did it throw any undue codes?
pisco
Well-Known Member
- pisco Well-Known Member
I didn't flash a tune yet, I read the tune to send to matt at zzp who sent me back a starting tune based on mods (cams, valve springs, Opel fuel rail, aluminum flywheel, e85) but I have not downloaded it to the car yet. I will have to do that and need to get it on the road to do data logging to make adjustments
comegetjoe
Goblin Guru
- comegetjoe Goblin Guru
Stock file with all these new mods? Are we on the same page?
pisco
Well-Known Member
- pisco Well-Known Member
NO
I made those changes, it started and idled ok, weeks later I spilled brake fluid all over the place and disconnected the bcm, disassembled and cleaned then re assembled the bcm, cleaned the interior of the car, let it sit for 2 weeks with no battery connected, brazed a bung in the muffler for the wideband, installed the muffler and started it to show my dad, it ran like **** and made scary banging grinding and breaking noises, I posted that I'm paranoid I fucked up somewhere in the process of building..... logging my build ... in my build log as most here do
nowhere did I complain about anything.
comegetjoe
Goblin Guru
- comegetjoe Goblin Guru
So you have a tuned file that has NOT been loaded into the car.
pisco
Well-Known Member
- pisco Well-Known Member
YES
I am not ready to drive, working on brakes now then alignment, seats, mount gauges (wideband, and boost), mount buttons and knobs for various extras I threw in, I can put off much of my plans for future after its running projects but I consider gauges, seats and brakes necessary for test drive!
