V1 Sluggonaut's Extended Track #364 - 2007 SS/SC (Turbo) Donor

[Sluggonaut]

Slowly working through the winter project list.

I've got the intake cleaned and the timing chains replaced. Just waiting on a gasket and some copper washers to call that officially done.

I finished the brake proportioning valve install tonight. That took a little longer than expected as I ended up removing the radiator to get to the front brake tee. It was a good time to work on it because the brake lines and cooling system are both open/empty due to dropping the subframe to work on the timing chain.

 

[escapepilot]

Slowly working through the winter project list.

Ummm.......I'm just going to assume you're getting an early start.

 

[Sluggonaut]

Yes, I got an early start on being a year late.

 

[Sluggonaut]

I started on the boost controller install. Originally, I was just going to install a single button on the steering wheel for a scramble button to change modes on the GFB Gfroce III controller then decided to add a second button for the horn. I was never able to get the horn button to work on the DF steering wheel and even though I thought the button panel switch would be sufficient, it's not. I use the horn on the Goblin more than any other car, mainly because people just don't see Goblins (in parking lots, at four-way stops, in traffic, etc.) making an easily accessible horn a must.

The plan was to keep the install simple (reads: cheap) but when I came across a coiled 4-wire cord for less than $80, a second button was a no-brainer. I found this at Prowire USA along with a second button for less than half of what other coiled cords cost. I'll post pics as soon as the last few parts show up to complete the project.

While I wait for parts, I'm fabricating a quick disconnect solution for the button wiring up front and a mount for the solenoid at the rear. I also need to extend the wire harness for the controller as it is not long enough out of the box.

 

[Sluggonaut]

Everything went fine when putting the engine stuff back together until my final bolt. I hand-started the belt tensioner bolt and then took 3 turns with a wrench and it didn't feel right. I pulled the bolt and had aluminum in the first 3 threads.

So I cleaned the threads with a tap, ran the bolt through a die, and tried the bolt back in the hole - worked fine. Put the bolt back through the tensioner and it won't grab. I'm guessing the first few threads are boogered, so I ordered a slightly longer bolt and hope that will fix it. If it doesn't work, I don't know my next options.

 

[Rttoys]

Helicoil or time-sert if need be

 

[Sluggonaut]

Slowly getting everything bolted back together and remembered I had a new bolt to use in the rear LCA bolt hole.

The big ugly one on the left from the build when I didn't have a short enough bolt from the donor. The new one on the right I picked up last year and figured I'd replace the next time that bolt was out:

It's out so the new one is going in. Even though that pile of washers each has its own Squatch-approved speed hole, that's a significant weight saving from the very rear of the vehicle. lol

A second rear LCA-to-frame upright bolt seems to be a common one missing during builds so here are the specs for any future builder trying to locate one:

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Racer X would definitely approve of the weight reduction, no matter how small. Don't forget the lightest thing you can add to your Goblin is a (speed) hole.

 

[Sluggonaut]

I'm guessing the first few threads are boogered, so I ordered a slightly longer bolt and hope that will fix it. If it doesn't work, I don't know my next options.

The slightly longer bolt worked great. We'll see if it holds after I get the engine started back up and driving.

 

[Sluggonaut]

I used a TRS (Tip Ring Sleeve) 1/4" plug and locking port for my coiled wire connector for the steering wheel buttons. I don't always remove my steering wheel but I can easily unplug the wire when I need to do so.

I had to rotate the mount 90 degrees to clear the brake proportioning valve while using the existing bolt in the steering column. It actually worked out better because the angle of the dangle of the cord centers it in the space behind the wheel so the cord wraps perfectly when turning the wheel.

The parts were less than $10, so combined with the coiled wire I linked to a few posts above it's under $30 to wire in steering wheel buttons. Now if only the buttons and button mounts were that cheap.

 

[Sluggonaut]

I got the brakes and clutch bled, but after installing the fusebox I realized I couldn't find the post that holds the positive cable to the fusebox.

Even though everything is bagged and labeled, when you take too long to reassemble stuff it goes missing. Any idea what the post is officially called or where to find one? I'd hate to have to go to the yard just for that post.

 

[Ross]

Just use a bolt and a nut, until you find it?

 

[finazzoty]

I thought I remembered Lonny referring to it as the positive post or positive terminal post…something like that. Just looked though and couldn’t find. Alternatively, you could probably whip one up real quick with some steel dowel stock and a tap. @Ross idea is probably better though lol

 

[Rauq]

This guy? https://www.gmpartsdirect.com/oem-parts/gm-multi-purpose-nut-11609553

 

[Sluggonaut]

This guy? https://www.gmpartsdirect.com/oem-parts/gm-multi-purpose-nut-11609553

Yep, that's the one.

I stopped by LKQ yesterday and grabbed one from an '07 Cobalt LS along with a fusebox cover that I've been unable to find over the past year. I've ordered a few online and they were never the correct one. The '07's had a slightly wider fusebox cover and I thought it was different on the LSJ's but it seems like it was different on all the '07's because the 2.2's fusebox is the same size/shape as the LSJ.

 

[Robinjo]

I couldn't find the post that holds the positive cable to the fusebox.

If you can’t find it, I think I have an extra one

 

[Sluggonaut]

I got the rest of the wiring buttoned up and even though I had power it wouldn't crank. I checked the usual suspects (starter wires, grounds, fuse box bolts) and everything worked fine after a few more turns on the fuse box bolts.

The little bit of noise I had coming from the motor before must've been timing-related, as it is gone now with the new timing components installed.

I need to finish running the wiring and vacuum line for the boost controller so that when my mount arrives from CraftCloud I can finish the boost controller install. I think I just have the tunnel cap, parking brake, shift cables, and seats to install after that before I can get driving and configuring the boost controller. Not bad for a long winter's work.

 

[Sluggonaut]

Finishing up the short list of a thousand little things reminds me of the end of the build last year. I also remembered how much I hate installing these seats. lol

I'm still waiting on my 3D print job from Craftcloud for my boost controller mount, but I got my tires ordered and my front splitter installed today along with all the other odds and ends like seat, wing, and parking brake reinstallation.

I'm going to drive with it for a while and see how I like it before sending it off for powder. I will put some hood fastener access holes in it so I don't have to remove the splitter every time the hood comes off. Not sure how much of an impact it will have on the performance of the splitter but the hood comes off often enough that I know I won't want to be removing the splitter each time.

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Does that splitter have a 'SPEED LIMIT' written on the other side? Come on, every Goblin should have a 'repurposed' road sign in it's build somewhere!

Putting a couple acces holes to get at the nose botton fasteners will not affect the function of the splitter at all, since they are far enough from the front edge and are not located through the 'wings'. You'll be good with that!

 

[Rttoys]

That’s mighty fine looking.

The holes shouldn’t matter. You could always put little plastic plugs to cover the hole if you want. You should be able to find some in the cobalt, if you hoard everything I do.