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V1 Ark's City Goblin #187 (2008 SS/TC donor)

Rttoys
It happens. I have taken a break several times. I’m kind of on one right now. Life happens and toys gotta take a back seat sometimes and sometimes, you need to just veg a little.
 
Ark :D
Now that springtime is rapidly approaching, it's time to finalize my plans for the car. I have decided I'm not going to change anything. I am still planning to install the brake prop kit, but that's all I'm doing this year.

I'm content with the car's performance as-is, so I'm not going to dive into tuning. Not this year, at least. I'll review in fall 2023 and see where the latest version of HP Tuners stands then.

My seats are comfortable and are still in good condition, as are my harnesses (they're expired as of June 2022, but it doesn't matter), so upgrading seats right now would just be for appearance. Doesn't seem like a logical expenditure to me, so it will wait.

The car's "paint" is still great and I love it how it is, so that will wait another year as well.

I am considering running some accent lighting in the footwell area, controlled by my underlighting dash button, just to make it easier to spot dropped items when it's dark outside, etc. I'll probably do this with cheap LED strips, not 100% sure yet. I may also just remove the underlighting altogether, since I never use it and it's technically illegal in my state.

So, with all that being said, I do have one question. Being that it's supposed to be 65 degrees here in Lancaster, PA, today, if not for the 50% chance of rain in the forecast between 7 and 8AM, I would have liked to bust out the Goblin for its first commute of 2023. However, I have the front end up on jack stands and the hood removed because I keep the battery connected to a booster/maintainer during the cold months, so that precludes me from driving the car on a whim until I take it off the maintainer and jack stands. It occurred to me that I could keep it connected to the maintainer without jacking it up and removing the hood, if I connected the positive to the starter and the negative to frame ground. Is there any reason to not do that?
 
KSLunsfo
Ark :D said:
It occurred to me that I could keep it connected to the maintainer without jacking it up and removing the hood, if I connected the positive to the starter and the negative to frame ground. Is there any reason to not do that?
Click to expand...

That probably works too, but you should be able to use the red post at the fuse box and any accessible ground. Think I've jumped off of that post a couple times too if remembering correctly (jumped one of my other cars that is). There's also a bunch of different cable options out there for battery tenders that you could run off the battery and just have it accessible in the cabin area somewhere.
 
baustin
Ark :D said:
It occurred to me that I could keep it connected to the maintainer without jacking it up and removing the hood, if I connected the positive to the starter and the negative to frame ground. Is there any reason to not do that?
Click to expand...
I leave this always connected to my battery and the covered connector end reachable from the side when the hood is installed. I can then plug in my charger when the Goblin is sitting for a while and disconnect and drive easily.
https://no.co/gc008
38432


But I see no reason you can't use the clamp connectors to the starter post and ground on the frame. It technically will have slight voltage drop at the battery but it wouldn't seriously matter unless your battery is that close to not holding a charge.
 
Karter2026
Ark :D said:
It occurred to me that I could keep it connected to the maintainer without jacking it up and removing the hood, if I connected the positive to the starter and the negative to frame ground. Is there any reason to not do that?
Click to expand...
I had my battery tender wired with the 2 prong plug ran out to the passenger side footwell area. Made it easy just plug it in to the 2 prong plug and plug the tender in to the wall. Done
 
Ark :D
I'd still have to remove the engine cover to use the fuse box post, but that's less annoying that removing the hood. That's what I'll do if the starter doesn't end up working well.
 
Rttoys
You’ll have to remove it for a connector install, then it’s just plug in whenever you want, like the others have said.

I have a one of these in just about every toy, ironically except the goblin.
B0A246B8-04FA-4A9D-8229-C4BD4885FABF.jpeg
 
KSLunsfo
Ark :D said:
I'd still have to remove the engine cover to use the fuse box post, but that's less annoying that removing the hood. That's what I'll do if the starter doesn't end up working well.
Click to expand...

Ha, I still forget some people have engine covers... I have one STILL unmodified for the TC setup sitting in a spare bedroom... Not sure if/when I'll get around to that project.

I would definitely consider something like the other guys are showing that just stays on the car and is easy to access and plug into. The whole point of using a battery tender after all is so you can jump in the car and start it right up at any point which is kind of being defeated by your current method :p:)
 
Ark :D
My tender has jumper-style clamps which kind of precludes the permanent wire method others are using. I'm fairly sure clamping onto the starter will be fine. Getting under the car would be much, much less annoying than removing the hood, and a little bit less annoying than removing the engine cover. :)
 
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