V1 Andrew's Extended Track Goblin - 08 SS/TC

[Joebob]

If this is your first time starting in a super long time, the fuel rail may still be full of air? have you burped the rail of pressure through the valve on the fuel rail. Use a towel as it sprays. on my first start it took a good dozen or so tries until the air was purged and solid fuel was injected. After that, it idled fine.

Joe

 

[ATMironov]

If this is your first time starting in a super long time, the fuel rail may still be full of air? have you burped the rail of pressure through the valve on the fuel rail. Use a towel as it sprays. on my first start it took a good dozen or so tries until the air was purged and solid fuel was injected. After that, it idled fine.

Joe

It is the first start in a long time.
I’ll give that a shot.

 

[Gtstorey]

Nothing drastic on the ZZP tune, other than pretty rich in PE and the bumped idle pretty high. Time grab some data logs and see what it shows. And you have already paid ZZP for their time to trouble shoot these issues with their added fee for swap vehicles.

It may just be the MAF needs tuning. Although if you just have a stock DF intake tube setup, I would expect it to be close enough to idle, especially at the elevated rpm its set to idle at.

 

[ATMironov]

I'm 99% sure now that I have a fuel pump problem.
Stems from the after market pump and not know originally how a return less fuel system works.
I need to figure out how to tie the aftermarket pump back into the ECU so it can properly control the fuel rail pressure.

My OEM fuel pump wires are not used, but I get weird voltage form the grey supply wire... I'm trying to get someone to check their voltage on that wire to see if it matches mine.

 

[Joebob]

I think the fuel pump is a PWM motor and not running off a constant voltage based on demand. That might be the weird readings you get on a voltmeter. You almost get an average reading based on the amount of time it is at voltage vs off.

 

[Gtstorey]

I'll try and confirm what it's doing in the serviced manual this afternoon.

 

[ATMironov]

I think the fuel pump is a PWM motor and not running off a constant voltage based on demand. That might be the weird readings you get on a voltmeter. You almost get an average reading based on the amount of time it is at voltage vs off.

Yeah, that is exactly what I'm trying to figure out.
I'm not seeing 12v on the grey control wire,, but I'm wondering if I just use the grey wire from the OEM fuel pump to power to new pump will it work.

 

[Joebob]

I would look at the manual for the aftermarket pump to see how it wants to be fed. In theory the internet says it could be ok with a pulsed signal.

 

[ATMironov]

I would look at the manual for the aftermarket pump to see how it wants to be fed. In theory the internet says it could be ok with a pulsed signal.

I confirmed that my pump will work with PWM. What I don’t know is if the cobalt system modulate voltage, or just the pulse width. I don’t know enough about PWM to know if modulating the voltage is even a thing.

 

[Rauq]

Speaking outside my realm of experience, I didn't know the LNF ran a PWM fuel pump, but I believe it.

Assuming it actually is PWM, it's not really modulating voltage, but cycling 12v on and off at various pulse widths. If it's commanding 100% pulse width, it's basically completely on, and effectively 12 volts. At 50% pulse width, it's on for one unit of time and off for one unit of time (think microseconds). 66% on would be on for two units of time and off for one unit of time, and 33% would be on for one and off for two. A dumb load like an incandescent bulb or a motor will basically respond as if it's 6 volts or 8 volts or 4 volts, but a multimeter may be too smart to see it that way and give you misleading or unuseful information, like it's seeing 12v but before it can display that reading it changes back to 0v, and over and over.

I'm sure you can find ways to have PWM explained better than off the top of my head though...

 

[Gtstorey]

Low pressure pump is not pwm. Straight up ignition voltage.

 

[Gtstorey]

High pressure pump is pwm.

 

[ATMironov]

Low pressure pump is not pwm. Straight up ignition voltage.

This explains why I’m getting weird voltage readings at the oem pump supply wire. It’s only on for two seconds If the car doesn’t have the run signal. I just verified that.

So back to the drawing board….
I just verified fuel pressure is at 90psi.
I from what I’ve read the car is only looking for 50-60 psi.
I don’t think that would cause my idling problems, but I should probably add a pressure regulator and return the extra pressure to the tank as the OEM pump had a regulator in it

 

[ATMironov]

It runs!
I put on all the hose clamps on the intake and blocked the EVAP port and it fired right up and idled with out issue.
So it was simply unmetered air getting into the system.
I still need a add a fuel pressure regulator, but the car is ready to be broken down for paint.

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[ATMironov]

Ok, maybe I lied, it wasn’t quite ready to be broken down.
I had to add a fuel pressure regulator and a check valve which require reworking all of the fuel lines.

I also added and auto blip…..

Now I just need to zip tie the harness and then it’s ready for disassembly.

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Let us know how the autoblip works for you. There has been some prior discussion about this not functioning correctly - but I have to believe it may have been an incorrect setup.

 

[ATMironov]

Let us know how the autoblip works for you. There has been some prior discussion about this not functioning correctly - but I have to believe it may have been an incorrect setup.

Testing it with out the motor running, it works as it should.
Doesn’t Throw any codes and the throttle body blips every time.
But we will see when it’s on the road.

 

[ATMironov]

Most of the harness is organized.
I’m a little nervous about pulling the harness, wrapping it and having it all be the same when I put it back.

Using different color zip ties for different thing.
Yellow and white mark branches from the main bundle
Blue and black are just keeping the bundle together.
Red means I cut a wire by mistake and need to fix on the bench.
Purple is marking the location of zip tie tabs to be welded to the frame.

This honestly give me a headache to look at

 

[ATMironov]

I got about 75% of the car broken down today.

Along the way I took detailed notes of each step, bagged all the pieces, and took a ton of photos.
I also made a list of the various nuts a bolts I need to replace with grade 8 hardware.

Almost time for powder coating!

Now let’s see if I can get it power coated while it’s all still fresh in my mind.

 

[ah.b.normal]

Most of the harness is organized.
I’m a little nervous about pulling the harness, wrapping it and having it all be the same when I put it back.

Using different color zip ties for different thing.
Yellow and white mark branches from the main bundle
Blue and black are just keeping the bundle together.
Red means I cut a wire by mistake and need to fix on the bench.
Purple is marking the location of zip tie tabs to be welded to the frame.

This honestly give me a headache to look at
View attachment 41078

View attachment 41077

View attachment 41076

I’ve got to say that looks like a lot of zip ties but implementing organization initially looks pretty daunting! Your color code system is simple and reliable. You’ll turn that labyrinth into function! Taming it is the first step. I’ve spent so much time on engine harnesses I occasionally see connectors in my sleep.