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Donor Opinions / Questions

Traé
I am in the process of putting a SC on a 2.4L Auto Goblin. The 2.2 and 2.4 are the same externally and both need the same tuning to work. The biggest change is that for the Auto, the engine sits 1" closer to the gas tank which made everything harder. A lot has to change and get modified to work from injectors, wiring, plumbing, brackets, grinding, and finally tuning. If you can build a Goblin, you can modify a Goblin. The 2.4L was plenty potent (0-60 in 4.7) but I love tweaking so have spent the last 9 months researching, collecting parts, and the last 2 months making the physical change in time for the Southern driving season.

Go fast table



Stock 2.4L


Neekid engine


Built back up better



Gratuitous overhead shot


Just have a touch of wiring and lots of tuning to do left.

Joe

What all needs done wiring wise? Does the harness need pulled and spliced? or is it all done to the engine harness in the back of the goblin?
 
Traé
Yes, supercharger on a 2.4 will work fine. My late model 2.2L LAP acrually has a 2.4L LE5 head. GM just slapped an LE5 head on the L61 and made my engine. It will absolutely work. Pretty easy install imo

Please see my classifieds post if you want to buy a supercharger kit. I'm a few hours north of you in Michigan.


Does this come with all components needed for install on the 2.4l? Minus the tune…
 
jirwin
Does this come with all components needed for install on the 2.4l? Minus the tune…

You'll need a few things. Everything included and needed is listed in the post.

What all needs done wiring wise? Does the harness need pulled and spliced? or is it all done to the engine harness in the back of the goblin?

Just need to wire in the intercooler pump. I also moved the sensor wire for the MAF's temp to use the new MAP sensor's temp so the computer reads it "post boost" since that ECU can't do both IAT and IAT2. Not strictly necessary though, just a bit safer
 
Joebob
What all needs done wiring wise? Does the harness need pulled and spliced? or is it all done to the engine harness in the back of the goblin?
For my build:
I rewired the fuel injector harness for the EV1 plug injectors. I had adapters but they hit the supercharger
I rewired for the LSJ MAP sensor with the temp input from the MAF
Changed the Alternator plug as the LSJ plug is different
Changed the Alternator to starter wire as the LSJ alternator has the stud in a different location and the stock wire is too short
Wired in the intercooler pump
Shortened the MAF harness as was about 12" too long
Added 8 pin to 6 pin TB adapter as the LSJ TB is different.

That covers the wiring.

Joe
 
Traé
Any major concern with these codes?

P0128 didn’t find any definitive answers, bad sensor?

P0420 caused by a bad O2 sensor.

P0833 could be a bad switch or wiring concerns
 

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Joebob
I would try to check what your STFT and LTFT are when the code comes up for P171. That looks to be the only engine harmful one. You can also see if the O2 sensor is cycling around Stoic to confirm the engine has enough fuel to run. If you do not have a cat, then you will throw the P0420 code. The others are wiring or sensors.
 
Traé
I would try to check what your STFT and LTFT are when the code comes up for P171. That looks to be the only engine harmful one. You can also see if the O2 sensor is cycling around Stoic to confirm the engine has enough fuel to run. If you do not have a cat, then you will throw the P0420 code. The others are wiring or sensors.
It’s on a car I’m looking to buy. The guy was a little quick to take my offer and sent me the codes. I share the same concern about the P0171. The car is 7 hours from me and may not drive out there if I’m going to get it home to find issues
 
Rttoys
It’s on a car I’m looking to buy. The guy was a little quick to take my offer and sent me the codes. I share the same concern about the P0171. The car is 7 hours from me and may not drive out there if I’m going to get it home to find issues
Could be a few things on the p0171. If all stock, look for vacuum leaks and such. With the intake runner zigzagging down into the finder, there could be a loose connection sucking in air.

if it’s modified, it could be a programming issue. People like to add cold air intakes, smaller supercharger pulleys and such, but not program to compensate for the mods. Do you have any picture of the engine compartment ?

the other 2 codes don’t matter, but you can use the cat code to drop the price
 
Traé
Could be a few things on the p0171. If all stock, look for vacuum leaks and such. With the intake runner zigzagging down into the finder, there could be a loose connection sucking in air.

if it’s modified, it could be a programming issue. People like to add cold air intakes, smaller supercharger pulleys and such, but not program to compensate for the mods. Do you have any picture of the engine compartment ?

the other 2 codes don’t matter, but you can use the cat code to drop the price
 

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Joebob
I personally would pass on the donor. Here is someone who is FAR away selling something for probably very cheap. they show you the error codes on an expensive Snap-on tool. they probably say that the fixes are easy but if he has such a tool, he can fix the issues and has decided not to....why....because they are not simple fixes. the motor doesn't look bad but not loved by any means. My bet is a flip of something they thought they got a good deal on and are passing the buck.

Joe
 
Joebob
If you are not scared of a bit of wire splicing, this would be a great donor. the battery is in the back so the fire wiped out the core wiring there but except for the battery cable (which can be gleamed from a junk yard car), gets thinned out anyway. Drops rebuild potential but great for donor potential.

Shipping should be less that $1000 to anywhere in Ohio.


Joe
 
G
Just remember that any Cobalt at this point in its's life is going to be a crapshoot, with a little less gamble with a running/driving donor.

If you get a non-running donor, I would recommend getting it at least running, if not driving before stripping it down, unless you have pretty good diagnostic skills. Otherwise you will chase your tail with trying to figure out wiring problems created during the harness modification and preexisting issues.
 
Traé
If you are not scared of a bit of wire splicing, this would be a great donor. the battery is in the back so the fire wiped out the core wiring there but except for the battery cable (which can be gleamed from a junk yard car), gets thinned out anyway. Drops rebuild potential but great for donor potential.

Shipping should be less that $1000 to anywhere in Ohio.


Joe
I made a Copart account for a previously mentioned car in Louisiana so I will 100% take a shot at the Dayton Ohio one. I checked Copart last night and didn’t see it so it must have just popped up. I’m worried about it not showing any miles though and am not having luck finding an LSJ motor as I’ve been browsing.
 
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Traé
I never imagined this thread getting so long and the search for a donor being such a pain. The possibility of me being too picky is there but I also want to be careful.
Just wanted to thank the people that have taken the time to answer my slew of questions and send me some candidates.
I hope I can freaking find one soon!
 
Desert Sasqwatch
Patience is definitely a virtue when looking for your donor. It took me 4 weeks of searching to find mine, but I also believe that luck played its part too. Wait for the right one that meets your expectations for having the correct model and intact features. Southern Cobalts will have less corrosion and less things that may need replacement because of this - plus less PB Blaster needed.
 
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