V1 ATI Super Damper Removal

[jirwin]

Anyone with an ATI Super Damper ever remove theirs? I'm thinking about adding one when I do some engine work this winter. Its press fit so I'm worried I won't be able to get it back off later if I need to do timing stuff/oil pump.

 

[Gtstorey]

918999.pdf (atiracing.com)

 

[Gtstorey]

In addition, pretty much all of GM stuff is "press fit", I think including the stock pulley.

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Hope step #4 in the instructions were followed when it was originally installed!

 

[OptimizePrime]

If you don't clearance the crank with the ATI Damper according to spec prior to installation you're going to have one hell of a time getting it off. Ask me how I know

You'll also want to extend your crank's keyway so the damper fits on the key when you press it on. The stock key is too short and by the time your damper gets to that stock key you're already too committed to back it off without a hassle. So you're left kinda hoping she's on there.

The damper is expensive by itself, paying for the machining isn't going to be cheap even if you can find someone to do it in a timely manner.

Long story short, I don't think it's worth it (and have gone back to stock)

 

[jirwin]

Trying to understand, but its hard without the engine in front of me to work on right now. This is the keyway you're talking about I assume:

Extending it would mean making a new key, and having the keyway cut out longer towards the end of the crank (to the end of the crank?). The whole problem is, you start pressing it onto the crank, but you may be misaligned with the keyway, but at that point its already on and its a bear to take it back off and start again? Do I have that right?

My engine is getting some machine work done right now, so now would be the time if any I guess.

 

[Gtstorey]

I’m surprised they are keyed at all. I thought GM had stopped that on everything after about 2000.

 

[OptimizePrime]

Trying to understand, but its hard without the engine in front of me to work on right now. This is the keyway you're talking about I assume:View attachment 37972

Extending it would mean making a new key, and having the keyway cut out longer towards the end of the crank (to the end of the crank?). The whole problem is, you start pressing it onto the crank, but you may be misaligned with the keyway, but at that point its already on and its a bear to take it back off and start again? Do I have that right?

My engine is getting some machine work done right now, so now would be the time if any I guess.

Yep! exactly right.

This key is actually separate from the crank itself, you may be able to trial and error a longer key to fit as opposed to machine one or weld something on.

The TC crank bolt is torque to yield (I'd assume the same for others), save your old crank pully bolt to 'press' the new ATI Damper onto the crank, then use a new TTY crank pully bolt when the rest of your assembly is installed and ready to go.

 

[jirwin]

Thank you for the information. I hadn't even thought about the crank pulley bolt being TTY, so that will go on the "things to order" list.

To further clarify, this is not a strength issue with the crank key/keyway, this is purely an installing issue - being a PITA to install.

Also, do you know if its normally done all the way to the end of the crank or just longer?

 

[OptimizePrime]

To further clarify, this is not a strength issue with the crank key/keyway, this is purely an installing issue - being a PITA to install.

Also, do you know if its normally done all the way to the end of the crank or just longer?

It's more for peace of mind and ensuring your future self is much more appreciative of your current self when you inevitably take it off for some reason or another. I still curse my previous self.

Another tip, when you go to install the damper you can put it in warm / boiling water and it'll help when you go to press it on to the crank. I don't think the key to the end is necessary but if it's all the same go for it. You just need it long enough to confirm the damper is on and the key isn't all galled up because you missed and kept going. I guess you scribe/score the crank where the key is to the end and line it up that way too.

 

[jirwin]

FTR I double confirmed all this with ZZP. Extended keyway is not strictly necessary, but it makes install easier.

 

[ncgoblin]

FTR I double confirmed all this with ZZP. Extended keyway is not strictly necessary, but it makes install easier.

I did not extend my keyway but (2) things that stick out that are great advice in addition. Boiling water to heat up would have helped install and anti-seize for removal.

I also have not removed mine yet...and im scared to.

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

A little judicious heating of the damper shaft with a heat gun may help.

 

[ncgoblin]

I need to pull my ATI harmonic balancer and I’m struggling to find the correct tool online surprisingly it’s not as direct as an LS. Does anyone by chance know the tool part numbers?

 

[jirwin]

I think I just rented something generic from Oreilly's to pull mine off