-
We've upgraded and reskinned the forum. Notice something off? Email us at [email protected] and we'll fix it.
V1 ctuinstra's City Goblin - 07 SS/SC donor **Licensed**
Briann1177
Goblin Guru
- Briann1177 Goblin Guru
Will the dog ride shotgun in the Goblin? 
ctuinstra
Goblin Guru
- ctuinstra Goblin Guru
Brake Bleeding
I've bled the brakes on many different vehicles over the years and have always been very successful. However this was by far the most difficult to do for whatever reason. To start out, I bench bled the MC. But I just could not get it to push fluid through the lines. I finally used a Mighty Vac and suck the $h!t out of them while Kaleb pumped. Finally was able to get fluid through the fronts. I still need to work on the rear more but ran out of refill fluid. One quart just isn't enough after bleeding and flushing the lines.
***UPDATE TO THIS POST***
I now know the reason why I was having such a hard time bleeding the brakes. It turns out that the brake light switch was adjusted in too far and holding the brake pedal down a bit. This would not allow the pedal to release completely and expose the holes for fluid to flow. When I finally got it on the road, every great once in a while the brakes would not completely release causing them to get hot. Luckily Kaleb noticed it before doing any damage. I adjusted the switch in almost all the way and now have over 3000 miles on it without it ever doing it again. Resume reading...
I wish I had a good way to pressure the system like I did on the Vette. Maybe if I had another cap I could drill a hole in it and press the pressure hose in the cap.
The fronts are finally working some but will need a couple more sessions of bleeding to get the last of it out.
Next onto the clutch bleeding....
I've bled the brakes on many different vehicles over the years and have always been very successful. However this was by far the most difficult to do for whatever reason. To start out, I bench bled the MC. But I just could not get it to push fluid through the lines. I finally used a Mighty Vac and suck the $h!t out of them while Kaleb pumped. Finally was able to get fluid through the fronts. I still need to work on the rear more but ran out of refill fluid. One quart just isn't enough after bleeding and flushing the lines.
***UPDATE TO THIS POST***
I now know the reason why I was having such a hard time bleeding the brakes. It turns out that the brake light switch was adjusted in too far and holding the brake pedal down a bit. This would not allow the pedal to release completely and expose the holes for fluid to flow. When I finally got it on the road, every great once in a while the brakes would not completely release causing them to get hot. Luckily Kaleb noticed it before doing any damage. I adjusted the switch in almost all the way and now have over 3000 miles on it without it ever doing it again. Resume reading...
I wish I had a good way to pressure the system like I did on the Vette. Maybe if I had another cap I could drill a hole in it and press the pressure hose in the cap.
The fronts are finally working some but will need a couple more sessions of bleeding to get the last of it out.
Next onto the clutch bleeding....
Last edited:
ctuinstra
Goblin Guru
- ctuinstra Goblin Guru
You got me thinking.... I didn't realize the caps were so universal. I had a left over MC from the Mailbu that I took the engine out for Tiffany's car. Sure enough the cap is the exact same. I had just tossed it in the trash this past weekend. Sweet, I can seal a hose in this cap and pressure the system.
Thanks!
SliderR1
Well-Known Member
- SliderR1 Well-Known Member
For what its worth, I've used a flat piece of stock steel with a nipple threaded into it C clamped to the reservoir to pressure bleed systems before (the top of the MC was flat).
I hate bleeding brake systems, especially with MCs that have been emptied... I've also had decent luck gravity bleeding brake systems, too. Just takes a while...
I hate bleeding brake systems, especially with MCs that have been emptied... I've also had decent luck gravity bleeding brake systems, too. Just takes a while...
ctuinstra
Goblin Guru
- ctuinstra Goblin Guru
I have a pressure bleeder system and was trying to use it. LIke a big dummy, I hooked a hose up to the top connection of the reservoir and pressured it and wondered why it didn't work. Then my son asked if that fitting actually went all the way down into the reservoir and sure enough it doesn't. I did find another cap from the Malibu that I can use with my pressure tank now.
ctuinstra
Goblin Guru
- ctuinstra Goblin Guru
Hopefully crisis averted!
I noticed that I had brake fluid leaking from the bellhousing. The only thing it could be is the clutch assembly. The fear struck me that the new throwout bearing or something is leaking clutch fluid on the inside and now I am going to have to tear out the engine and take off the transmission! I thought about it a lot and remember when putting the clutch hydraulic assembly together it was missing an 0-ring which I found one and installed it. Apparently it wasn't an o-ring at all but a round seal that was missing.
I went to the local dealer and ordered the clutch pipe assembly. I didn't replace the entire assembly but used the seal off of the top. Everything went back together nicely and I feel much better about it's ability to seal. I haven't bled the system yet (tomorrow's chore) and I sure hope that I'm not jinxing myself. The seal must have come off with the aluminum fitting a long time ago.
This is the new clutch pipe after removing the seal from the tip.
And installed on the one on the car.
I noticed that I had brake fluid leaking from the bellhousing. The only thing it could be is the clutch assembly. The fear struck me that the new throwout bearing or something is leaking clutch fluid on the inside and now I am going to have to tear out the engine and take off the transmission! I thought about it a lot and remember when putting the clutch hydraulic assembly together it was missing an 0-ring which I found one and installed it. Apparently it wasn't an o-ring at all but a round seal that was missing.
I went to the local dealer and ordered the clutch pipe assembly. I didn't replace the entire assembly but used the seal off of the top. Everything went back together nicely and I feel much better about it's ability to seal. I haven't bled the system yet (tomorrow's chore) and I sure hope that I'm not jinxing myself. The seal must have come off with the aluminum fitting a long time ago.
This is the new clutch pipe after removing the seal from the tip.
And installed on the one on the car.
ctuinstra
Goblin Guru
- ctuinstra Goblin Guru
Here is a list of the yellow zinc bolts that I have ordered and used on the build. This is not meant to be a complete list for others to just order up and think it's a complete kit. It's just a dump of all of my orders during the build. I kept a spreadsheet for a while of the bolt sizes and locations but then stopped keeping up with it.
ctuinstra
Goblin Guru
- ctuinstra Goblin Guru
Don't throw away those donor seats just yet! They make for great chairs in the shop to put your shoes on or to just stop and rest and think about the harness some more.
It even reclines! Used to have sliders before they were repurposed. But that was just silly having sliders on it.
It even reclines! Used to have sliders before they were repurposed. But that was just silly having sliders on it.
ctuinstra
Goblin Guru
- ctuinstra Goblin Guru
Finishing up on the wiring the lights, etc. I HIGHLY recommend this stuff. It's a split loom but it's thinner than the standard loom and easier to work with. In my opinion it looks a heck of a lot better too! It's also very cost effective. It may not be the best choice in areas that will see a lot of rubbing, vibration, and heat such as around the engine, however it's hard to beat inside the vehicle. You will need a very good pair of diagonal cutters or other type of very sharp cutter otherwise you are left with strands that didn't cut.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1-4-Flexo-F6-Braided-Cable-Sleeving-Wrap-Split-Loom-Techflex-F6N0-25BK/350999178330?_trkparms=aid=111001&algo=REC.SEED&ao=1&asc=20160908105057&meid=b844205995d243e4a46078525f3fc1ce&pid=100675&rk=2&rkt=15&mehot=pp&sd=350999179276&itm=350999178330&_trksid=p2481888.c100675.m4236&_trkparms=pageci:9117c3a3-2fc0-11e8-85c8-74dbd1809e42|parentrq:5a7ba3061620abc5a754f419fffe8abc|iid:1
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1-4-Flexo-F6-Braided-Cable-Sleeving-Wrap-Split-Loom-Techflex-F6N0-25BK/350999178330?_trkparms=aid=111001&algo=REC.SEED&ao=1&asc=20160908105057&meid=b844205995d243e4a46078525f3fc1ce&pid=100675&rk=2&rkt=15&mehot=pp&sd=350999179276&itm=350999178330&_trksid=p2481888.c100675.m4236&_trkparms=pageci:9117c3a3-2fc0-11e8-85c8-74dbd1809e42|parentrq:5a7ba3061620abc5a754f419fffe8abc|iid:1
Last edited:
ctuinstra
Goblin Guru
- ctuinstra Goblin Guru
Kaleb has designed and printed a button dash for the car. This print has recessed text in it that I attempted to paint with a hair.
We used latching and non-latching buttons found here:
Latching:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MQRM42P/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Non-latching:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01I9KDTZK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
These are the connectors we used so they could easily be removed:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01H5BMXKG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It was very difficult to get a good picture of the dash as it's lit up, the lights mess with the exposure. In person it looks fantastic with the white light (other colors are available). They are wired to the original small PWB found inside the steering wheel controls I posted earlier. The PWB is mounted in a sealed box that Kaleb made and mounted to the back of the dash. The lettering looks much better in person, it's just so hard to get a good picture of it.
We used latching and non-latching buttons found here:
Latching:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MQRM42P/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Non-latching:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01I9KDTZK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
These are the connectors we used so they could easily be removed:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01H5BMXKG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It was very difficult to get a good picture of the dash as it's lit up, the lights mess with the exposure. In person it looks fantastic with the white light (other colors are available). They are wired to the original small PWB found inside the steering wheel controls I posted earlier. The PWB is mounted in a sealed box that Kaleb made and mounted to the back of the dash. The lettering looks much better in person, it's just so hard to get a good picture of it.
Briann1177
Goblin Guru
- Briann1177 Goblin Guru
Is that a Goblin or F-16? I guess you don't realize the amount of buttons there are in a car until you line them up.
Looks good.
I guess you don't realize the amount of buttons there are in a car until you line them up.Looks good.
Karter2026
Goblin Guru
- Karter2026 Goblin Guru
Dash looks great! I was looking at similar buttons that were etched with the logos it was going to be $125+ for four switches. Are those the DF stainless braided lines.
