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V1 Grants Full Cage Goblin - '06 LT NA Donor
- Gtstorey Goblin Guru
I'm not sure what the status if the assembly really is at this point, but I would complete the assembly of any wiring, cooling, fuel, air etc, and confirm that anything else that connects to the intake is connected. Trying to actually trouble shoot issues on a partially assembled car isn't going to work very well.
GrantSmith6
Active Member
- GrantSmith6 Active Member
I am using the stock air-box with the MAF installed right now but I think that might be placing the MAF too close to the throttle body to gather correct data. I have it assembled as much as I can right now as I am waiting for the stage 2 and 3 parts but they should arrive sometime in the next couple of days. In terms of engine codes, the only ones I have are EVAP related, no other codes are coming up. I will also connect the vacuum line to the booster to correct that issue.
Joebob
Goblin Guru
- Joebob Goblin Guru
Plug in everything and make sure no bare wires are grounding on the frame such as lights ect. Make sure all vacuum, fuel, water ect are plugged in a leak free as well. The computers are great at telling you what is wrong with the car, but as such are finicky to have everything working to run properly. A perfect example is that you need to add a resistor or incandescent 3rd brake light to get your cruise control to function. Why, who knows but the computer looks for the inductance of that circuit as a function check. I have diagnosed failing fuel injectors, stuck open thermostat, mis-gapped plugs, and failing wiring all from what the computer tells me. I have also been brought to my knees for 1 loose connector to 1 pin in 1 plug as well, and a methodical review of the wiring diagram and checking end to end continuity found the little guy and have been stable since. If this come off bitchy, I apologize, but without knowing the progress and hearing many stories of people wanting to start the engine as soon as they install it is fraught with problems.
Good luck.
Joe
Good luck.
Joe
GrantSmith6
Active Member
- GrantSmith6 Active Member
I have now received most of my stage 2 and 3 parts and have been slowly chipping away, task by task but I have run into a few issues. The first is that my lights seem to be wacky as the auto function doesn't seem to be working entirely. I also need to check some wiring as not all the lights are functioning properly. I'm hoping to find the time to work on that this weekend. My other question and one that I am looking for some input on regards the DF steering wheel kit. I have most of the system assembled, however the big nylock nut that holds the splined mount for the quick release to the steering shaft does not seem to fit. It is interfering with the quick release and makes it so I cant attach the quick release hub to the mounting plate properly. I checked my hardware bags but couldn't find a nut that is specified for this purpose. Do I need to either purchase or use a donor bolt that is lower profile or should I have one from DF? If anyone that has installed the DF steering wheel kit has input it would be greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance!
GrantSmith6
Active Member
- GrantSmith6 Active Member
It has been a while and I have been very busy so I have not given an update in a while, but I have officially finished all my wiring, lights, computers, etc. I have most of the donor parts mounted that are body related and will be moving onto suspension hopefully very soon. I am trying to mount my subframe now but I am unclear about some specifics. I see that the K23C baggie is listed as subframe mounting hardware, however I am not sure in what manor the bolts are supposed to be used. They are only grade 8 and are also carriage bolts and I don't see anywhere where a carriage bolt should be used. From my understanding, I use the donor subframe mounting bolts in the rear, but I don't know what bolts go through the subframe and control arm bushings in the front of the subframe. I would really love it if any of you could share how you got your subframes mounted. Thanks!
Desert Sasqwatch
Bigfoot Goblin
- Desert Sasqwatch Bigfoot Goblin
The carriage bolts are used in the front locations:
The bolt head is on bottom with the nut on top similar to the above photo. The square section under the bolt head will grip into the subframe - so only tighten the nut on top.
The carriage bolt head leaves just enough room to pull the radiator hose through and not rub, which would happen with a normal hex bolt head (ignore mine, it's a temporary installation in a custom subframe different than the Cobalt subframe).
The bolt head is on bottom with the nut on top similar to the above photo. The square section under the bolt head will grip into the subframe - so only tighten the nut on top.
The carriage bolt head leaves just enough room to pull the radiator hose through and not rub, which would happen with a normal hex bolt head (ignore mine, it's a temporary installation in a custom subframe different than the Cobalt subframe).
GrantSmith6
Active Member
- GrantSmith6 Active Member
Ohhhh ok I think I was just thinking that the control arms mounted with the bushing in the front. Thank you so much I'll give that a try.
GrantSmith6
Active Member
- GrantSmith6 Active Member
I got those in and I am going to wait to torque them down until I get all my fasteners related to the subframe at least started but now I have reached another question. I am trying to attach the rear solid trans mount (the one with three holes on the subframe side and three on the engine side) and I am not sure which bolts to use or how to get the holes to lineup properly. I noticed that the K23C baggie has 5 shorter bolts and large washers that I have not used at all and am not sure where they go. Any ideas?
Traé
Goblin Guru
- Traé Goblin Guru
The three bolts that mount to the motor will be from the baggie, I don’t remember the number. The three that mount through the subframe will be the long thin donor bolts. If I remember correctly the bag for the subframe will have nuts for those bolts. I can check when I get home tonight. I had to loosen all of the bolts mounting to the engine to get the 3 long donor bolts lined up.
GrantSmith6
Active Member
- GrantSmith6 Active Member
That's weird because when I check the bolts from the baggie they are not the same size as the holes on the motor. The other problem with the really long bolts is that they need a nut on the end and I don't have any. I was looking at the baggie again and it says "Solid transmission mount hardware for SS" so could it be that I received the incorrect baggie since I have an N/A and the F23 trans? It is my understanding that the SS turbo has the F35 and the SS Supercharged has the F23 so I figured that the baggie was still correct since it didn't have a specific transmission denomination.
GrantSmith6
Active Member
- GrantSmith6 Active Member
Ok so does that mean I received the wrong hardware bag? Even if that is the case I'm still unsure what to do about the long bolts and the bracket not entirely lining up properly.
Robinjo
Goblin Guru
- Robinjo Goblin Guru
I have to force mine in, they don’t want to line up. First, I loosely mount the three bolts into the transmission. Then, I have to take a big screw driver and tweak it until I can getwo of the long bolts through the subframe and swan neck portion of the mount. Tighten it up enough to hold and then put the third long bolt through.
GrantSmith6
Active Member
- GrantSmith6 Active Member
Ok I’ll give that a try. Do I use donor nuts for the ends of the long bolts? I’m not sure if I have any so maybe I’ll just go buy some.
