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V1 Jared's Florida Road/Track Build - 06 SS/SC (#230)

jaredthenav
Well I've been slow rolling it a bit. I got all the lights wired up with plugs. Miswired the pax rear light the first time but fixed that. Got the front and rear ends put together and discovered I was missing the bolts to attach the rear calipers, so Adam has those in the mail. Today I torqued a couple of the front end bolts, put on the kick plate and center tunnel cap front half, and assembled the shifter. My wife was kind enough to put the anti skid tape on the kick plate and added a creative touch...I really like it. And finally ran it up to temp. No leaks, the fan kicked on and off around 217 degrees. Fluids seemed to be circulating just fine. Hopefully tomorrow those caliper bolts will arrive and then to bleed the brakes and clutch and hopefully take it around the block!

Question for the LSJ crowd... Seems the clutch bleeder elbow is buried under the oil cooler and behind my fuel filter and fuse box. Any tricks to reaching the bleeder valve without taking apart everything on top of the trans?
20210404_171732.jpg
20210404_171927.jpg
 
Zoom Zoom
jaredthenav said:
Well I've been slow rolling it a bit. I got all the lights wired up with plugs. Miswired the pax rear light the first time but fixed that. Got the front and rear ends put together and discovered I was missing the bolts to attach the rear calipers, so Adam has those in the mail. Today I torqued a couple of the front end bolts, put on the kick plate and center tunnel cap front half, and assembled the shifter. My wife was kind enough to put the anti skid tape on the kick plate and added a creative touch...I really like it. And finally ran it up to temp. No leaks, the fan kicked on and off around 217 degrees. Fluids seemed to be circulating just fine. Hopefully tomorrow those caliper bolts will arrive and then to bleed the brakes and clutch and hopefully take it around the block!

Question for the LSJ crowd... Seems the clutch bleeder elbow is buried under the oil cooler and behind my fuel filter and fuse box. Any tricks to reaching the bleeder valve without taking apart everything on top of the trans? View attachment 22477View attachment 22478
Click to expand...
Your wife did an outstanding job on kick plate I actually had to bleed my clutch bleeder today and it was really easy. Just used a long extension and a 11mm socket loosened it up put a hose on end and bled into bottle while pumping the clutch pedal.
 
Ross
I bled the clutch before I bolted the engine and subframe into the frame. It was only a few inches below its' final position, but the hoses and electrical cables were out of the way.
Maybe remove the 2 big bolts holding the subframe on the drivers side, and the transmission bolts on the drivers side.
Let the subframe & engine droop below the frame, giving more room under the electrical fuse box.
 
Towerdog
jaredthenav said:
Well I've been slow rolling it a bit. I got all the lights wired up with plugs. Miswired the pax rear light the first time but fixed that. Got the front and rear ends put together and discovered I was missing the bolts to attach the rear calipers, so Adam has those in the mail. Today I torqued a couple of the front end bolts, put on the kick plate and center tunnel cap front half, and assembled the shifter. My wife was kind enough to put the anti skid tape on the kick plate and added a creative touch...I really like it. And finally ran it up to temp. No leaks, the fan kicked on and off around 217 degrees. Fluids seemed to be circulating just fine. Hopefully tomorrow those caliper bolts will arrive and then to bleed the brakes and clutch and hopefully take it around the block!

Question for the LSJ crowd... Seems the clutch bleeder elbow is buried under the oil cooler and behind my fuel filter and fuse box. Any tricks to reaching the bleeder valve without taking apart everything on top of the trans? View attachment 22477View attachment 22478
Click to expand...
Im in the same boat. I pulled the fuse box out, the coolant hose and most of the wiring to get to the bleeder and it is still a PITA!
 
Zoom Zoom
Towerdog said:
Im in the same boat. I pulled the fuse box out, the coolant hose and most of the wiring to get to the bleeder and it is still a PITA!
Click to expand...
I get it now , Y’all poor super charger engine owners is why it’s so hard. With the turbo it seemed I had plenty of room to work on the bleeder .
 
Towerdog
Zoom Zoom said:
I get it now , Y’all poor super charger engine owners is why it’s so hard. With the turbo it seemed I had plenty of room to work on the bleeder .
Click to expand...
If I remember correctly the stock position of the bleeder pointed out as the supply was coming from the opposite direction. I just got mine bled.... Twice! connector on the trans side was not fully seated and blew off... Brake fluid does miracles to paint!
 
R
The service manual actually doesn’t even use the bleeder valve on the trans. Instead, they use a vacuum bleeder at the MC and pull the air out. It’s slower, but it does work. You just need the MC plug that you attach the Mittyvac to.
 
SmsDetroit
Zoom Zoom said:
I get it now , Y’all poor super charger engine owners is why it’s so hard. With the turbo it seemed I had plenty of room to work on the bleeder .
Click to expand...
Lol I was thinking the same thing. What was so hard about bleeding it. Took me like 2 minutes. I’m sure the supercharger guys will get to laugh at us for something
 
Rttoys
jaredthenav said:
Wish I would have been turned on to this before I put the engine in!
Click to expand...
Ya same here :confused:

I had a problem where the line was hitting the trans mount area and would push the connection loose. Reattaching it and bleeding it became “normal” for me until I fixed the bindage
 
CaptFrank2001
Excellent & Congratulations !!! My brakes were soft as well. After the third time bleeding them they improved. I used a vacuum bleeder. Sent in my paperwork to the state on Friday. Hoping for good results.
 
jaredthenav
A couple weeks ago, while doing a lap around the neighborhood, the engine decided to limp and die on me. And so I got mad at it and haven't come back to it until today. It started right up, and I ran out up to 5k for a little while and all seemed fine. But it threw 3 codes, P0017 crank position sensor, P0069 Manifold absolute pressure, and P1182 that the blue driver obd couldn't find a description for. Hopefully the first one is just a replacement sensor? Any ideas on the other 2 (or all 3)?

Also, discovered that the standard fenders are too narrow for the SS wheels\tires. The standard fenders are good up to 205 and looks like my stock SS tires are 215s. I don't think I've seen anyone else bring this up on their build logs. I think I'm just going to trim the outer lip and try and use them up front. But the rear is going to be totally l tricky. I'm using the stock shocks and there is very little clearance between the bottom of the shock and the tire.
20210501_201521.jpg
 
jaredthenav
The Google search is making me think I need to replace the scip baro sensor on top of the SC, and maybe the other one above the oil filter. And the cam sensor... Does that mean a sensor relearn?
 
ctuinstra
Are you sure you don’t have the plugs for the MAP and the baro sensors swapped around? They are the exact same sensor and same plug but one is mounted in the manifold and the other is mounted outside. You might want to double check on the wire colors for both.
 
jaredthenav
ctuinstra said:
Are you sure you don’t have the plugs for the MAP and the baro sensors swapped around? They are the exact same sensor and same plug but one is mounted in the manifold and the other is mounted outside. You might want to double check on the wire colors for both.
Click to expand...
I never unplugged the one mounted on the outside, but that's not too say that the previous owner didn't mix it up... I'll give it a try.
 
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