V1 Jared's Florida Road/Track Build - 06 SS/SC (#230)

[jaredthenav]

That would mean your tunnel is also 4 inches too short. Is that the case?

The actual tunnel is fine. It's the cap that's 4 inches short with holes that only half way line up.

 

[jaredthenav]

Thanks for the tips. I'll go on a hunt for air leaks. Do most people just use the first O2 sensor or both? I am pretty sure MAF sensor is properly aligned but will double check that too.

 

[Ark :D]

The actual tunnel is fine. It's the cap that's 4 inches short with holes that only half way line up.

Yeah I meant the cap. Just skipped a word in my reply.

 

[Ross]

Thanks for the tips. I'll go on a hunt for air leaks. Do most people just use the first O2 sensor or both? I am pretty sure MAF sensor is properly aligned but will double check that too.

The first O2 sensor is used by the ECU to adjust the fuel ratio in real time. You want to keep this one.

The second O2 sensor was designed to be after the catalytic converter, but most of us don't have a catalytic converter on the Goblin. The ECU does a few things with the fuel to keep the catalytic converter happy, but I have turned those features off using HP Tuners. I think most Goblin owners stick the Cobalt O2 sensor it there, just to plug the hole. If you don't connect the wire, then the ECU will probably notice, and throw a code, but it would disable the ECU from being able to adjust the fuel based on a non-existing catalytic converter. If you are into tuning the engine, then this is a good spot to put your wideband O2 sensor in, and leave the stock one out.

 

[jaredthenav]

Anyone know what this bolt is supposed to be torqued to? Also, confirm I have the bar on correctly?

 

[Ross]

I found it here using this login. Yes, you have it the right way in your Goblin.
81 foot pounds. Now do my ol' racing trick, and write 81 on the race car.

 

[jaredthenav]

I found it here using this login. Yes, you have it the right way in your Goblin.
81 foot pounds. Now do my ol' racing trick, and write 81 on the race car.
View attachment 20692

Thanks. I got paint pens 2 weeks ago as I started torquing things down for that very reason!

 

[jaredthenav]

While waiting for my second batch of parts to come back from the powder coater, doing some little things. I can't seem to find instructions for the DF kit lights; specifically tail lights, side mirror, and eventually headlights. Can anyone point me in the right direction?

 

[CaptFrank2001]

Hope this helps.

 

[jaredthenav]

Hope this helps.

We're you able to solder the ends or did you need to get their crimper as well?

 

[CaptFrank2001]

I soldered the ends on first. Then pushed the ends thru the waterproof rubber piece (orange). Then pushed the pins into the housing (they lock in place). And lastly inserted the little lock they supply. No need for the crimper.

 

[jaredthenav]

Perfect. Ordered. 3 per pack, right?

 

[CaptFrank2001]

Actually looked again. I first used the Glarks connectors (Nearly the same as the JRready connectors). Less $$. They are designed to be used without the crimping tool. But the JRready work as well without the tool.

You can get them in all different amounts, 2 pack, 4 pack etc... Also in 2 pin, 4 pin etc...

 

[JPas914]

You can also look here.

V1 - LED Headlight, Turn Signal & Brake Wiring

Full disclosure: this is not my realm of expertise, I'm effectively handicapped when it comes to understanding some of this stuff but I could use your help! I'm not using the standard headlights, sideview mirrors, or rear lights and this creates a 'fun' opportunity for me. While searching...

dfkitcar.com

 

[jaredthenav]

Ok, I think I've got most of this. I'm just using the DF supplied lights. If I'm reading this ok, no resistors needed, just wire to wire... I'm adding plugs, the only difference. What about the light blue cruise control wire? I see that if adding a center brand light, it is split, with a 100ohm resistor going to ground and the other to the center brand light. But without that, what do I do with the light blue wire if I want to use the cruise control? Do I still need to add the resistor and wire it to ground?

 

[Ark :D]

If you don't plan on using a third brake light, just run the light blue wire to a resistor, then to ground. At least, that's how I understood it.

 

[Lonny]

I don't think the early models that use push button brake switches need the resistor to use cruise control. I would try without it first. You will need all four brake and clutch switches operational.

 

[jaredthenav]

I don't think the early models that use push button brake switches need the resistor to use cruise control. I would try without it first. You will need all four brake and clutch switches operational.

So in that case just ground out the light blue wire?

 

[r3drckt]

So in that case just ground out the light blue wire?

I think just keep it rolled with heat shrink over the end

 

[Lonny]

Don't ground it out.