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V1 Joe's 2009 F40 SS/TC #470

comegetjoe
Ya'll best BELIEVE ME! That I'm going to drive this car with the right hand drive shift pattern until I figure something else out lmfao. I'll be in the tuning phase when my car hits the road so no hard shifting for me anyways.
... but that lockout needs to be figured out, too because there is NO distinction between R and 1st until you're moving.
 
Ross
========= update ========== this whole post was me misunderstanding the issue. Please feel free to skip.

I am sitting in my chair with my favorite beverage, and I had an epiphany. Maybe. Let me know if this will work.
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Normally this is mounted with the green arrow facing the front of the goblin, and the black cables going back. In this orientation, cable 2 attaches on the right side of the shifter. If you able to reassemble this shifter with the cables facing the opposite direction, then it should work for the F40.
If you flip the shifter arm 1, and make 2 plates (green rectangle) to move the cable attach point, then mount the shifter so the green arrow points forward in your goblin, and the cables go backwards. Now cable 2 is on the left side, which should be correct for the F40.

===== Update =======
Dang, it won't work. I just sat in my goblin, and realized my mistake. When you turn the shifter around, it still moves cable 2 in the same way.
New plan. Don't turn the shifter around. Just modify the arm that cable 2 attaches to.
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Behind the green circle is a pivot point for the arm that cable 2 attaches to.

If that pivot point could be moved back to where the yellow circle is, and arm 2 flipped so it goes to the yellow circle instead of the green circle, then cable 2 would move in the opposite direction. You would still need to make 2 plates like the green rectangle above, to mount the cable.
 
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SmsDetroit
What about going to the old tunnel cover with the reversers and the group buy shifter. Not as good and the new one but may fix the issue. I have the group buy and love it.
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Desert Sasqwatch
Ross, don't want rain on your parade, but the RSX shifter you have illustrated in your last message doesn't need any modification too work with the F40. That's the main reason I purchased it, knowing that having it oriented backwards from the stock mount orientation in a Honda will put Reverse and 1st gear in the left forward location. The F40 transmission levers don't work the same as the F35 or F23. The lever that selects 1-2, 3-4, 5-6, and Reverse 'gates' (the 'tower' up/down lever) has to move up to select Reverse and 1st gear, which requires a cable pull, and the weighted lever to move to the rear, which also requires a cable pull. Moving the RSX shifter left and forward achieves this pull on both cables. I've sat on my garage floor with the RSX shifter and F40 transmission and have gone through every gear selection.
 
Rttoys
If you could run cable 2 thru the reverser, and cable 1 directly to the shifter (no reverser) then it would work.
Since I changed to the new DF shifter I have the group buy shifter on the bench if yall need pictures of anything. Hell, I have a stock cobalt and a zzp cobalt shifter in the stash too if anything is needed.
 
Ross
Ross, don't want rain on your parade, but the RSX shifter you have illustrated in your last message doesn't need any modification too work ...
Thanks Tim. Sometimes I work on real problems too.
So the solution for a F40 transmission is to use an RSX shifter, and not the DF shifter.
Sorry for going in the wrong direction. My reading and comprehension are sometimes not working together.
All that planning would be valid for a RSX shifter on a F35 transmission... so I am solving potential future problems?
 
pisco
Thanks Tim. Sometimes I work on real problems too.
So the solution for a F40 transmission is to use an RSX shifter, and not the DF shifter.
Sorry for going in the wrong direction. My reading and comprehension are sometimes not working together.
All that planning would be valid for a RSX shifter on a F35 transmission... so I am solving potential future problems?

Maybe the real solution is to install an F40 to match the shifter.....
 
comegetjoe
Shifter, aside.

Assembled the rear? Front? Whatever, the pita mount to get to directly 3" from the gas tank. The one that is sooooo close, I can only fit the allen wrench on the hardware for 180° of a rotation because of the bump out in the gas tank.

Mounted the two pieces of round stock on the trans, crossed my arms because I didn't want any sparks landing on my chest and tacked the mount plate into position. Got into position and gave it a couple better tacks and let it cool. Moved onto the piece that welds onto the subframe and gave that a few good tacks so it's nice and steady and left it at that because I DID NOT want to press my luck fully welding ANY of that next to my gas tank and lines. As it is I spent 30 minutes prepping and planning in case something did happen. Scary stuff when it's your house you're thinking of.

Anywho, moving forward. Probably going to start pulling the subframe tomorrow and ripping out the engine to fix that pesky brake fluid leak between engine and trans.
 
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comegetjoe
For those of you who haven't yet, pulling apart your build, let alone one that hasn't been on the road yet, is a total mind F***. First I stared at it, then had an efficiency dilemma, then finally got over everything and had a breakthrough on what needs to come off and what can hang on the chassis for the subframe to come off.
Pictures show goblin partially assembled, subframe out, *front subframe side of trans mount tack welded on the outside and a few pictures of tack welds on the trans mount. I just needed the subframe side to stay sturdy enough to survive the subframe removal so I can clean off the paint and fully burn it in.

*also found a bleeder drip at the drivers rear caliper, wouldnt have noticed if it wasnt for the driveway marks everytime I moved the car. Im like... wtf? Lets go searchin' for trouble.
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comegetjoe
Ive been thinking about this whole... leaking TOB thing... im going to drill a hole in the bottom of the bellhousing and shove my camera up there and see if it's actually leaking from the TOB or if it's dripping from under the that 90° fitting on top of the trans and running down. Id hate to dismantle all of this work if it's that stupid fitting.

If the TOB is wet, I'll continue pulling the drivetrain, it's a mental hurdle I've already jumped over, so let's do it, but if not... then let's fiddleF around and figure out this stupid fitting.

Thoughts?
 
A
Ive been thinking about this whole... leaking TOB thing... im going to drill a hole in the bottom of the bellhousing and shove my camera up there and see if it's actually leaking from the TOB or if it's dripping from under the that 90° fitting on top of the trans and running down. Id hate to dismantle all of this work if it's that stupid fitting.

If the TOB is wet, I'll continue pulling the drivetrain, it's a mental hurdle I've already jumped over, so let's do it, but if not... then let's fiddleF around and figure out this stupid fitting.

Thoughts?
Before you drill a hole make sure there isn't a slot or something near the bottom of the bellhousing. The F35 had a nice big hole near the T/O bearing pipe with a plastic cover. The F23 has a slot at the bottom that angles back. Yes, pulling the trans is a PITA, but sometimes it has to be done.:(
 
comegetjoe
Before you drill a hole make sure there isn't a slot or something near the bottom of the bellhousing. The F35 had a nice big hole near the T/O bearing pipe with a plastic cover. The F23 has a slot at the bottom that angles back. Yes, pulling the trans is a PITA, but sometimes it has to be done.:(

Nope. No such window.
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comegetjoe
Is the steering rack limiter mandatory? I'm using factory size tires and wheels and all I've done is move the car in the yard and my control arm powder coating has deep rub marks on it. Kinda hard to miss on my color.
 
Desert Sasqwatch
Joe, are you using any spacers? The net offset (wheel offset + spacer) can affect the inside most location of the rim when turning to steering lock. Since you have the rub marks already it would be wise to get the rack limiters so you don't incur any further wear or damage.
 
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