V1 JS City Goblin - 2010 LS

[JSATX]

Also I already almost rubbed a hole through the radiator hose. You have to twist the hose in a clockwise direction on the engine nipple before clamping it down so it holds itself away from the belts. Need to attach it to the frame some how.

 

[JSATX]

This is kinda a dumb question but I really can't remember where the power steering power wire plugs into. I'm guessing I need to extend it back to the engine fuse box? Is there an ignition controlled wire in the front that would work better? Looks like it is going to need a fairly large amount of current just judging by the wire size.

 

[Lonny]

We supply a bracket that positions the hose away from the belt and pulley.

When we get them from the laser cutters we will form them and then distribute them to everyone.

 

[Lonny]

This is where it originally plugged in but you can also go straight to the battery.

Although it would likely never be a problem it would be best to put a fuse in the line if you go to the battery.

 

[JSATX]

View attachment 627
This is where it originally plugged in but you can also go straight to the battery.

Although it would likely never be aproblem it would be best to put a fuse in the line if you go to the battery.

Great thank you. It won't cause battery drain or other problems if it's directly connected to the battery? Is it always hot when plugged into the fuse box?

 

[Lonny]

We have four goblins running around that are wired directly to the battery. We haven't noticed any problems.

 

[DanPerryy]

The fuse in the fuse box for the power steering is always hot. Instead of running my power for the power steering all the way to the back I added an inline fuse up front with the inline fuse for the BCM. Both connecting to battery positive.

 

[JSATX]

The fuse in the fuse box for the power steering is always hot. Instead of running my power for the power steering all the way to the back I added an inline fuse up front with the inline fuse for the BCM. Both connecting to battery positive.

30 amp sound about right?

 

[Lonny]

I think it is a 60 amp from the OEM.

 

[DanPerryy]

Yes 60 amp, 50 amp for the BCM

 

[JSATX]

Great thanks

 

[JSATX]

Slow day at the office so I'm prototyping a tach shift light setup. Not sure if I'll make a freestanding one to mount behind the wheel or integrate it into the race wheel I'm making.

The array will be mirrored (green on each side with red meeting in the middle)
Green will illuminate from 0-4000rpm. Yellow will divide 4000-5999 and then the red will illuminate right at 6000. Red will then flash at ~6300, and the entire array will flash at 6500 as Rev limiter kicks in. All those RPM values will be easily editable in the software code if needed. Admittedly a little silly, but it's fun and hopefully will look cool when finished.

 

[Johvans]

Slow day at the office so I'm prototyping a tach shift light setup. Not sure if I'll make a freestanding one to mount behind the wheel or integrate it into the race wheel I'm making.

View attachment 680
The array will be mirrored (green on each side with red meeting in the middle)
Green will illuminate from 0-4000rpm. Yellow will divide 4000-5999 and then the red will illuminate right at 6000. Red will then flash at ~6300, and the entire array will flash at 6500 as Rev limiter kicks in. All those RPM values will be easily editable in the software code if needed. Admittedly a little silly, but it's fun and hopefully will look cool when finished.

I would buy one!!

 

[JSATX]

Haha thanks for the vote of confidence, it's just a side project for the time being. If it works as well as I expect it to I'll definitely make several.

The main question is how to pickup the tach signal. There are several ways to do this, my co-worker is writing the code for it and has added a few different options. You can (1) get the Hz signal off the actual tach in the gauge cluster, but not sure how I feel about opening that up. (2) tap into the Can bus and repeatedly ping the ecu for the data which is easy but might result in a very slight delay...which would drive me nuts if noticeable or (3) tap into the ignition circuit and snag that signal every time it tells the cylinder to fire. Would just have to figure out which models use wasted spark etc.

 

[Lonny]

Can you tie into the crank position sensor located on the front of the engine below the intake?

 

[JSATX]

That's an interesting thought, no idea what the signal looks like there. I'm basically going to walk around the car with an oscilloscope and try a few different places. Whatever gets me the cleanest signal wins... A lot of people are using the purple wire at coil #1 for aftermarket tachs.

 

[JSATX]

It's working out well. May have one version dedicated to the Goblin and another universal version designed with GM style Heads up display where the LEDs are actually board mounted and it's placed out in front of the dash.

The reflection is totally daylight bright which is awesome.

 

[JSATX]

Back to work on the Goblin. Front suspension and brakes installed, as well as rear toe adjustment bar that fits where the steering rack was in the cobalt.

But then trouble. I started the car last night and it ran great. About 8-10 minutes then shut it off. Started it again this morning. Another 8-10 minutes just to get coolant and oil flowing. Happy with how it was running I started doing something I've been avoiding for a while, the final bundling of the wires. Well I worked on that for about an hour. Lots of wrapping and strapping and it was all starting to look pretty dang good....

Of course now it won't start. I installed a couple vacuum lines so I wanted to see if the idle was the same, listen for any vac leaks. But it won't even bump. It's just like when I had my CANBUS wires cut. So I unwrapped everything I did thinking I might have pinched a wire or something. Can't find anything wrong at all.

The check engine light is on and it was not before. The display goes to ------------ after about 3-5 seconds after power up. I scanned for codes and only unrelated emissions codes are present. I'm at a loss.

 

[JSATX]

Well bummer. I officially have a gremlin in the Goblin....continued unwrapping wire and shaking the bundles and everything's talking again.

My flasher indicator on the dash won't turn off? I don't remember what the button looks like for that.

Also my theft light is now on.

Previously the only light that was on was airbag

 

[JSATX]

I'm an idiot. Sometimes when I think I know what the problem is I fixate in on that and I miss the actual problem right in front of my face. My tunnel ground came loose. Three hours later and most of my dash harness unwrapped when I noticed the loose ground. Gosh. So frustrating yet a big relief at the same time.