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V1 JS City Goblin - 2010 LS

Lonny
Using the supplied upper mounts you should have about 1.5 degrees of negative camber. The top of the tire needs to be angled in.
 
Adam
Here's a photo of P1 showing the negative camber:

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JSATX
I adjusted the toe today in preparation for towing it to the alignment shop. I wanted to get it close even though it's only about ten miles.

Disclaimer: does the below work? I have no freaking clue! Made me feel better though. Will know when I pick it up Friday!

Tie a piece of string around the rear frame tube. Then stretch it around the tire at a measured distance from the ground. Make sure you have a little helper constantly bumping into the string to make things interesting.

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Then tie the other end to a jackstand placed just behind the front tire. The heavier the better.

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We have an advantage that most normal cars don't. That is easy access to a pretty dang good center reference point, that is the center wiring tunnel. Take two measurements, I went just behind the seat and just in front of the pedals and measure the distance from the string to wiring tunnel.

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Make sure you sight the tape along the horizontal braces keeping it square, otherwise your measurements will be skewed. Move the jackstand in until the measurements are exactly the same.

Then simply use a 13mm wrench to adjust the toe bar until the front edge of the rear tire just barely kisses the string. When you adjust it you'll move the string a little, so repeat the process until there is no more movement of the string.
 
JSATX
Got it back from the alignment shop. It drives a million times better now. Even though I'm still stuck in first gear only it's obviously significantly more composed and tight. Drove it probably a mile around the back roads of the neighborhood it's just so controllable. The alignment guy's told me they spent several hours on it. They completely changed all the settings, and adjusted every ball end joint to get caster right. It was the most expensive alignment I've ever had done but it was worth it.

Good thing I got those moog alignment bolts, they were very much needed. Probably would be a good idea to supply with the kits because everyone's going to need them eventually.
 
JSATX
Installed headlights and taillights. Taillight stop and reverse lights work. But no running light, meaning when I turn the headlights on the normal tail light should come on. They don't. And I'm not getting any blinker voltage. I would expect to hear a relay clicking when I push the blinker stalk down but nothing happens. And the blinker indicator does not light up on the dash. (Edit: there is no blinker relay in '07+ cars. Apparently the sound was played through the speaker lol. No sound for us. But arrows don't light up on dash so still a problem.)

After reading some cobalt forum posts, my license plate light isn't on either indicating something's not happy. Each of my tail light plugs have four wires. Black, brown, light blue and yellow on left plug and green on right plug.

By process of elimination (illumination?): black is ground, light blue is backup light, green/yellow is blinker/stop, but I don't know what brown is....

Edit: brown goes to license plate light so it has to be night time running lights. I have no voltage on that wire. Hmm.

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BAR-AIR
Brown is the running lights and the license plate light it runs through the main harness where it splices from one wire into three or four.
 
JSATX
Replaced the **** license plate bulb and everything came on. So there must have been a short, because now when I take the bulb back out it still works. Something was touching where it shouldn't be in that socket.

Has anyone used the little license light or is there a better alternative?
 
Tony
What kind of headlights are those? Are they actually DOT headlights, or just "off-road use only" type driving lights?
 
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