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V1 JS City Goblin - 2010 LS

JSATX
Thus far I really hadn't left my subdivision. Mostly because it was just so loud I was afraid of attracting unwanted attention of the red and blue lights variety...

I had it running in the garage and my neighbor came over and gave me this. He didn't care just wasn't using it and thought I might haha.
IMG_7370.JPG


Anyway. That gave me a little more confidence so I took it out for a good 20 minutes this afternoon. I wanted to see if I could get the fan to come on but it never got above 178°.

Good Lord this thing is freaking fun!! It reminds me a lot of riding my dad's racing quad when I was younger. Immediate response, immediate brakes, and because there's just no weight it goes exactly in the direction you point it in. I even goosed it in a corner to see if it would break loose and haven't been able to so far.
 
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JSATX
what are all the alignment settings that you had set?


Front total toe .30" (More than I wanted but he seemed to know what he was doing...)

Front camber: -.5°
Front caster: +8.5°
Kingpin: 6.5°
Incl angle: 6.2°

Rear toe: 0"
Rear camber: -.5°

I asked for the neutral camber values, because I value my tire life over lap times...
 
JSATX
Well I'm one step away from cutting out the turn signal stalk and hard wiring everything. My stupid BCM is not allowing the turn signals to work. I have tried adding resistors (since the lights are now all LED) and I've replaced the turn signal stalk. I know the wiring works because I can apply voltage directly to the wires and turn signals light up on front and back.

The one thing that might be the missing link is I have no idea where my hazard light switch is or what it plugged into. The blinkers should work regardless of the hazard switch but Im just wondering if maybe its an open circuit with no switch or something.
 
BAR-AIR
Here is a photo of the Hazard connector three wires black/white stripe -ground, grey wire runs to the instrument cluster connector -should be the back lighting and the white wire runs to the blue connector on the BCM as shown.
IMG_0989.JPG
 
JSATX
Ugh. I dont have that. Those are the same color wires running into the plug on the turn signal stalk though.
 
Lonny
The turm signal will work without the hazards hooked up.

I will try to find a way to duplicate your situation tomorrow and give you the pin location for the hazard switch.

Does your arrows flash on your cluster.
I think ours flash without any lights hooked up.
I will check that tomorrow also.
 
JSATX
The turm signal will work without the hazards hooked up.

I will try to find a way to duplicate your situation tomorrow and give you the pin location for the hazard switch.

Does your arrows flash on your cluster.
I think ours flash without any lights hooked up.
I will check that tomorrow also.

The arrows don't flash. But I have found a way to mess with the turn signal stalk and have the signals flash. When the signals flash the arrows on the dash flash as well. So I know it's talking. It's very difficult to explain I sent a quick video to Adam because I just didn't know how to put it in words. I thought for sure it was a resistance issue but I went out and bought LED resistors and that didn't help. Next I hooked up incandescent bulbs thinking it still might be a resistance issue but that didn't help either.

I really need to get the service manual. But Its just so hard to spend $300 On it.
 
Lonny
14884594679241857508736.jpg
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From what I read your BCM may be bad. Do you know if it worked in your donor?

Hazards ON is pin 9 of the X2 BCM plug to ground. It is a white wire. It is in the plug that is perpendicular to the red plug.
 
JSATX
View attachment 770 View attachment 771 View attachment 772

From what I read your BCM may be bad. Do you know if it worked in your donor?

Hazards ON is pin 9 of the X2 BCM plug to ground. It is a white wire. It is in the plug that is perpendicular to the red plug.

Thank you. I'll have to look into it when I get home.

You know I think I was focused on mechanical stuff when I was testing my donor. I have no recollection of testing the blinkers.
 
Lonny
BCM are probably fairly cheep at a salvage yard. It would be worth getting one to test. One out of an automatic may work but it would be best to find one from a manual car.
 
JSATX
BCM are probably fairly cheep at a salvage yard. It would be worth getting one to test. One out of an automatic may work but it would be best to find one from a manual car.

Do you know how the turn signal switch actually functions? I'd like to play around with bypassing it at the flat connector mentioned in your first picture this morning. It appears to be a pull down to ground signal switch. Am I reading that correctly?
 
Lonny
We jumped the wide connector and got the turn signal to blink on the gauge panel:
Jumping left turn signal
jumping left turn signal.jpg


Jumping right turn signal
jumping right turn signal.jpg
 
JSATX
So it turns out I had my hazard wires bundled up and taped off. I ended up finding the hazard switch and plugging it in. The hazards work! And both arrows illuminate on the dash as expected. I thought for sure this would some how fix the blinkers but nope.
 
JSATX
We jumped the wide connector and got the turn signal to blink on the gauge panel:
Jumping left turn signal
View attachment 773

Jumping right turn signalView attachment 774

Also I do not have parking lights or Hi beams wired up. Is there any chance it thinks the bulbs are all burned out so won't turn the blinkers on? I read about something like that on one of the cobalt forums.

I did have them all hooked together into my headlight earlier and it didn't change anything. But that's before I found my hazard circuit
 
JSATX
In that second picture from the manual where you note pin 9 is hazards, do you know which pin is turn signals?
 
Lonny
The goblin we are testing on is only up to first stage. We have not hooked up any lights of any type yet.
The turn signal only works when the key is on.

The only way we know the turn signal is working is by the arrows on the cluster.

You should try jumping from pin g or h on the turn signal plug to the negative post of your battery. This will eliminate a possible ground issues.
 
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