V1 Luke's City Frame Goblin '07 SS/SC Registered!!!!

[DCMoney]

I decided to do all my wiring when I had a frame ready to accept the harness so I could better visualize how everything fit together. I am to that point now.
I have made it to the last video where the dash harness is added to the rest of the circuit. I am having a tough time at knowing exactly needs to be done. With the differences between years and options I have had to make many assumptions about what needs to be done and I am growing less and less confident that I have things done correctly.
Are there any resources with wiring diagrams or any other help?

I also have an untouched harness that i picked up off another member. As a last resort what does it take to have DF rework it for me?

Thank you!

I'll send you PDFs of the fuse block pin outs along with the BCM, ECU, etc, plug pin layouts. Without these I was very unsure of how I was doing.

I got all this info from alldata.com, highly recommended.

Won't be able to get them to you till later tonight.

 

[lksohm]

That would be great! I thought about getting a subscription when I started this project. Probably would have saved a few thrown tools haha.

 

[ctuinstra]

Yeah it can be a bit stressful at times but take it in small bites. It helps to know what items you keep and what you don’t. Don’t hesitate to ask questions along the way.

 

[lksohm]

Would it be a bad idea to mount the fuse box and BCM into the frame and route the wires where they need to go?

This would help to clarify a lot of the misunderstandings that I am having. I am mostly concerend with making sure every ground is ran and communication wires go where they need to. Things like headlights and radiator fan wires should be simple to trouble shoot.

 

[Ross]

Not a bad idea. I test fitted my wiring harness in the goblin before I fully wrapped the wires. Tested the wire lengths for the major connections.
Only used 3 grounding points - side of the battery, beside the gas pedal, and the rear drivers transmission mount. I avoided the tunnel ground, as Lonny is now doing this.
Then I wrapped the engine area (about 4') of the main harness, and reinstalled. Debugged until the engine started.
Soldered the lights, horn. Debugged the buttons and dash.
Then I wrapped the tunnel while in the car. Wrapped the lights & horn wires.
Still haven't fully wrapped the dash area. Need to finalize where the buttons will go first... but been driving it for 2 weeks.
I kept both of the Cobalt's 12 volt accessory(cigarette lighter) plugs, the dash lights dimmer, the TPMS receiver, the day light sensor, steering wheel clock spring with the horn on the steering wheel, which aren't normally kept. It's your car, customize it...

 

[DCMoney]

07 Cobalt SS Connector Views.pdf

drive.google.com

Think everything is in that PDF, let me know if I forgot anything.

I did the same thing Ross did in his first paragraph, haven't wrapped my harness yet, will wait till this winter to wrap it.

Do you have the image of the harness with measurements on it?

 

[lksohm]

Awesome! Thank you!
I found that picture today while searching for information.

I think I will mount connectors in the car and run the wires that way. That should make it easier for me to understand the concepts rather than just cut here extend there instructions. I am used to reading wiring diagrams that way.

 

[Ross]

This map has some extra tiny measurements from the left side (BCM side), some from the ECM/PCM side, but the measurements don't meet in the middle, so I don't know the overall length. I just followed the video and mounted my fusebox a foot off the 4x8' plywood tabletop.

 

[Vwsaabvt]

I also have an untouched harness that i picked up off another member. As a last resort what does it take to have DF rework it for me?

Thank you!

$900

 

[DCMoney]

Awesome! Thank you!
I found that picture today while searching for information.View attachment 9478

I think I will mount connectors in the car and run the wires that way. That should make it easier for me to understand the concepts rather than just cut here extend there instructions. I am used to reading wiring diagrams that way.

I would plug the main connector between the dash harness and main harness in, mark and cut the remaining wires like the video shows. If you dont your just going to end up with everything plugged in but not even close to reaching the other end of the plug.

Also, use the measurements in the photo to make sure the red and white/blue BCM connectors are going to reach, I ended up having to cut a wire or two and extending them going to the BCM so the harness would reach the fuse block next to the engine and route through the tunnel correctly.

 

[lksohm]

My goal is to knock all of the wiring out tomorrow. I have the day off and want it done while it is all fresh in my head.

Thank you everyone!

 

[lksohm]

I've made a lot of progress but there are a few things unclear in the video.

Where do the BCM and power steering wires start and terminate after modifications? Also, what connectors do they use on the ends? I may have them mixed up somewhere.

I count 9 wires that were cut from the "main connector that need to be extended 9'. Does that sound correct?

 

[Ross]

from memory here, so I'm not positive, but here it goes:
- BCM gets power from the fuse on the side of the battery tray.
- Power steering is suppose to be extended using the rear defroster wire (but it wasn't long enough for me) so it must go back to the rear fusebox.
- main connector wires were extended different amounts as I pulled up the slack from both sides. Some were extended 26" I believe.
- 9 wires sounds about right to me.

 

[lksohm]

I haven't been doing well with updating my build log but have been making slow and steady progress.
I am working on installing taillights and am having troubles.
What wires did you use for the brake lamps? I tried using the yellow (driver side) and dark green (passenger side) wires but these also flash with the turn signal and cause some odd problems with the headlights. Things like the front parking lamps flash with the blinker if the brake isn't pressed and strange things like that.
I am not using DF taillights and have read that I may have to add in a diode somewhere to prevent feedback on these cheaper type lights.

Any advise will be appreciated.

 

[Briann1177]

The diode is for the heat exchanger circuit to prevent the engine from running for a bit after the key is turned off.

 

[Briann1177]

If I remember the tail light circuits correctly, you should have five wires

1. Left turn/brake yellow
2. Right turn/brake dark green
3. Reverse light green
4. Park lights brown
5. Ground black.

 

[BaltimoreHokie]

One think to keep in mind while you are testing / installing is to make sure you keep checking your fuse. I know I tripped it one time and then it threw off my insulation because nothing was working correctly.

 

[Karter2026]

That sounds like a ground issue.

 

[lksohm]

These are the lights I'm using.
I have the fuse box ripped apart looking for alternative brake light wires that only go on with the brakes.
I'll reassemble it all and document the exact symptoms.

It very well could be a ground issue. I only wired up one light for testing and didn't secure the ground permanently.
The headlights, blinkers, mirrors and parking lights work perfect without the brake wire plugged into the taillight.

 

[Briann1177]

There are no other alternative wires that im aware of that can be used for the brake lights. The brake lights use the same wire as the turn signals.

Now there is a dedicated wire that I forgot to mention for the third brake light, but that's not what you would want to use for the tail lights.

Make sure you're matching the correct wire colors from the Goblin harness to the tail light wires.