• We've upgraded and reskinned the forum. Notice something off? Email us at [email protected] and we'll fix it.

V1 Manny's City Goblin - 07 SS/SC Donor

BaltimoreHokie
First drive complete....I am back at regular boost pressure. I need to do something with my shift cables. It wont go in reverse and its hard to find the gears...It also isn't quite as smooth as I'd like for it to be.

I installed the drivers side body panel. It was not as quick as I thought it would be. Having two people would help...I ended up having to drill one rivet out so I could make it a little tighter. I wanted to use 3m double sided tape, that may have made it easier actually. But, like most things...I didn't have any and i did have silicone. I dropped my hood off at a graphic installer place yesterday. Hoping I can pick it up and install it Monday or Tuesday.

I still have a ton to do but now that I am on the road it def feels nice. Next item after the shift cables / drivers panel is likely the lights or dash buttons.
 
BaltimoreHokie
bradr said:
It may be worth mentioning details about which solenoid in case others run into the same issue.

BTW: I have enjoyed reading your build thread.
Click to expand...

So, Basically this thing on the valve cover has 2 solenoids on it, you can remove one, that is for the evap I believe, then you still need to use the one that has the hoses on in the first picture. I removed the part I did not need, so it looks like the second picture installed.

8202


8203


I need to put a few miles on the car to ensure that all is well, but I only took it out once before the fix and once after. I'll take it out tomorrow again and make sure I dont have any other issues.
 
D
Yeah the instant throttle and whine is what i wanted. But the turbocharged one was what i found locally and had good miles(60249) so i just went with that.
 
BaltimoreHokie
Guys I am having issues with my parking light / running light. I've got nothing with the lights on or off.

The brake and turn signals work on rear and side mirrors. I've used the brown wire in both the mirrors and the sides for the running light as others on the forum have said to do.

I have my light sensor hooked up...obviously it's light outside but with the lights and marking lights on the running lights should illuminate. Thoughts?
 
BaltimoreHokie
I completed installing the drivers panel last night. Went a lot smoother than the passenger. The toughest part is really ensuring that the bottom side is tight to the frame. After getting everything riveted I used 3 ratchet straps to put some light pressure on the sides to ensure they had good adhesion to the silicone.

I used a pressure bleeder that was recommended on the forum to re-bleed my brakes because I was unhappy with my results using a vacuum bleeder. Very straight forward and very easy. The vaccum bleeder actually did a pretty good job. There was really no/minimal air. There is a thread / video on the forum on how its performed. But for those who want a link to the bleeder...HERE.

I had a few issues last night. I found that my front passenger side caliper is leaking around the piston. I took it apart, then put it back together and it wasn't any better. The piston is not scratched at all...the Oring looked ok, but I am going to pick up a rebuild kit today (basically just an new O ring and gasket). Hopefully that fixes it. Otherwise I'll have to go buy a new caliper, have it blasted the re powdercoat it...and then hope it doesn't get warped like this one may have.

For those of you who commented that your goblin an for a couple seconds after shutting it off....I was reading a few threads and it appears if you put a blocking diode on the power heat exchanger wire. That will fix the issue. I've ordered some from amazon here. I'll let you guys know if it works...
8278


In efforts to be more ready to tow it without a trailer I bought new rod ends to replace the nuts on the suspension, then buying a old beetle tow bar and connect it up...I bought these.

8277
 
ncgoblin
ctuinstra said:
We used a saber saw and it worked really well other than one blade per cut. I found out if you cut them completely clear of the mirror, the sides of the hood bounce around a lot. It you cut it just enough to mount the hood and it still touches the mirror, the hood doesn't move hardly at all.
Click to expand...
One side I cleared too much and I experienced bouncing but not enough to be concerned.
 
Tony
BaltimoreHokie said:
For those of you who commented that your goblin an for a couple seconds after shutting it off....I was reading a few threads and it appears if you put a blocking diode on the power heat exchanger wire. That will fix the issue. I've ordered some from amazon here. I'll let you guys know if it works...
Click to expand...

What do you mean by the heat exchanger wire? Is that a SC thing? I have that issue with TC.
 
BaltimoreHokie
Tony said:
What do you mean by the heat exchanger wire? Is that a SC thing? I have that issue with TC.
Click to expand...
I guess it depends. I believe they use the same set up on the TC. Essentially we use the blue wire from the engine harness, plug in it to power our fan which for the SC is the heat exchanger which sits under the radiator. From what i read in the another post, the feedback from the fan power is causing the engine to sputter / run for a few extra moments before cutting off completely. I'll try it out and let u guys know if it fixes my issue....which again is after a drive / start up. I turn the key to the off position and it continues to run for 1-2 maybe 3 seconds.
 
Last edited:
ncgoblin
BaltimoreHokie said:
I guess it depends. I believe they use the same set up on the TC. Essentially we use the blue wire from the engine harness, plug in it to power our fan which for the SC is the heat exchanger which sits under the radiator. From what i read in the other forum, the feedback from the fan power is causing the engine to sputter / run for a few extra moments before cutting off completely. I'll try it out and let u guys know if it fixes my issue....which again is after a drive / start up. I turn the key to the off position and it continues to run for 1-2 maybe 3 seconds.
Click to expand...
This is correct I have the diode you mentioned inline and the engine shuts off properly now. Has been working great for about 5 months now.
 
BaltimoreHokie
So I have one leak that I cannot fix and I am going to have to purchase a new caliper. Its the front passenger. It is leaking around the piston a drip maybe every few hours. I purchased a rebuild kit and installed it yesterday but last night I still saw the drip again. I must have gotten it too hot during powdercoating, warped it somehow. I have another on order. What a pain but glad I noticed it.

Last night I wired up the headlights, I added plugs to the connections in case I ever need to remove them. I just used a cheap 3 wire connector from amazon like the one below. 7.99 for a pack of 5. I still need to make a mount for them...
8316

The hood is supposed to done getting wrapped today. Hopefully I can get it installed and can take some pictures.

How did you guys install the hood support on the bottom? Just drill a hole and then put a bolt / nut into it? I the hardware kit at home, but i don't remember what it had in it.
 
BaltimoreHokie
I can absolutely say that the diode cleared up the issue with the engine running after the key is turned.

Additionally. I took it around the neighborhood today. I need to take it to a track for sure.

I got the hood back from being wrapped Friday. Turned out pretty good. These are my insurance pictures. So not the best angle or most artistic.

MVIMG_20190428_152903.jpg
MVIMG_20190428_152855.jpg
IMG_20190426_183320.jpg


I adjusted the shift cables. So much better now. Feels a lot better and I have reverse now.

I wired up the all the lights but I still need to make a bracket for the front. Once I have that I can just plug them in.

Last couple things on the list include the windscreen, Parking brakes, then the dash buttons. Then I am sure I'll have another list...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

C
V1 Captain Dave's City Goblin #336 - 07 SS/SC Donor
7 8 9
Replies
168
Views
18K
Captain Dave
C
A
V1 Connors street Goblin #400 sc 07
2 3
Replies
49
Views
2K
Robinjo
Robinjo
kevbo423
V1 2007 Cobalt SS Supercharged - Donor Parts and Engine for Full Build
Replies
2
Views
647
kevbo423
kevbo423
L
V1 Levi's Ext Track Goblin #130 06 ss w turbo
Replies
1
Views
230
WA08TC
WA08TC
Jakkerus
V2 Jakkerus’ V2 Goblin (#10) - 2017 GTI 6-Speed
Replies
3
Views
158
Jakkerus
Jakkerus
Back
Top