V1 ncgoblin's Build Thread - 2005 SS/SC North Carolina

[Briann1177]

Yes, ditto to what Chad just said. The fuel pump windings could be shorted out.

 

[ncgoblin]

If it is only happening with the fuel pump plugged in, then is almost has to be the pump itself. Unplug the plug from the pump and measure the resistance on the same two pins of just the pump. This will help to verify it's just the pump.

Well boys it sounds like I may have a faulty pump. I pulled the pump and disconnected the internal positive/negative connector while disconnected I get nothing but plugged up to I believe the small black internal pump I get 0s and a beep. Do you think it’s fixable? I cannot even pull it all the way out due to the hose inside. If I need a new one what version should I get?

Thanks

 

[ctuinstra]

Just to be clear, the total resistance is zero? Because if it's just low, say 35 ohms or something, they pump motor may be good. I don't know what the actual resistance of the motor should be at this point, but the point is, there is a difference between zero and low. I'm just covering all the bases, not trying to confuse you or anything.

Most likely the windings are shorted inside. And to be on the safe side, replace the pump.

 

[ncgoblin]

Just to be clear, the total resistance is zero? Because if it's just low, say 35 ohms or something, they pump motor may be good. I don't know what the actual resistance of the motor should be at this point, but the point is, there is a difference between zero and low. I'm just covering all the bases, not trying to confuse you or anything.

Most likely the windings are shorted inside. And to be on the safe side, replace the pump.

Yes between the 2 wires total resistance is 0. What pump do you recommend for my 05 supercharged?

 

[ctuinstra]

I don't really have a recommendation other than the GM OEM pump for ease of installation and wiring. The factory pump should normally last the life of the vehicle if not run too hot to often (running low on fuel, the fuel helps to cool the pump).

 

[Briann1177]

Keep in mind I have a TC fuel pump, but I get 0.4 Ohms resistance when I measure between they gray and black wires. Also make sure when you measure resistances, you're on Ohms and not the diode checker.

The thought that the fuse only blows when you have the pump plugged in tells me there is something going on with the pump itself.

 

[ncgoblin]

Keep in mind I have a TC fuel pump, but I get 0.4 Ohms resistance when I measure between they gray and black wires. Also make sure when you measure resistances, you're on Ohms and not the diode checker.

The thought that the fuse only blows when you have the pump plugged in tells me there is something going on with the pump itself.

So the Ohms was about .7 on the pump. I went ahead and installed a new fuse and tested the voltage at the connector right before the pump 10.4 at startup and when let off the key 12.4v, no fuse pop. I then plugged into pump and pop! I am fairly confident its the pump and I can replace the pump alone without the entire housing for $40. We will see if this solves it.

 

[ncgoblin]

Goblin is alive! It did not end up being a faulty fuel pump but a faulty ground. One of my coworkers mentioned to test right to the battery im like doh! Worked perfect. I am about to tape up the last few wires but I am not sure what this plug is for.

 

[IDRVSLO]

Congrats!

 

[ncgoblin]

I have some photos and videos to upload but it’s been very busy. I finished wiring up the headlights/taillights/turn signals and rear suspension. Two problems I am running into now. The heat exchanger fan for the supercharger runs all the time when the ignition is turned on and is causing the engine to delay on power off causing it to sputter. I tested by unplugging the fan and engine powers off perfect. I wired in the blue wire based on the guide to the PCM plug. Second how did you all determine the backup signal without the shifter installed how does the vehicle send that signal? I am not sure if this is required in NC registration.

Thanks

 

[ncgoblin]

First Start and Start with tail lights and axles/suspension installed.

 

[ncgoblin]

Heat exchanger piping and more.

 

[Lonny]

You may be able to put a diode in line on the positive wire. It will allow power to get to the fan but will block feedback.
Also the heat exchanger fan needs to run anytime the key is on.

 

[Briann1177]

Interesting about the fan power wire. I noticed that mine also runs for about a second or two after I turn off the key, but I never thought too much about it because the engine eventually dies without any issues. I don't understand why the fan would even cause an issue.

As far as your reverse lights, you should have a backup lamp switch on your transmission. There should be a light green wire that runs from your switch, through your engine-to-body harness connector, and out to your lamps. You can shift it into reverse manually at the transmission side if you want to test your lights that way.

 

[ncgoblin]

Interesting about the fan power wire. I noticed that mine also runs for about a second or two after I turn off the key, but I never thought too much about it because the engine eventually dies without any issues. I don't understand why the fan would even cause an issue.

As far as your reverse lights, you should have a backup lamp switch on your transmission. There should be a light green wire that runs from your switch, through your engine-to-body harness connector, and out to your lamps. You can shift it into reverse manually at the transmission side if you want to test your lights that way.

Thanks for the update Briann I will test this tonight. I believe the fan may still be providing a small amount of power when the ignition turns off causing the vehicle to sputter but I may be wrong. I am going to try to diode method that Lonny provided and report back.

 

[ncgoblin]

View attachment 5504
You may be able to put a diode in line on the positive wire. It will allow power to get to the fan but will block feedback.
Also the heat exchanger fan needs to run anytime the key is on.

Is this what you are talking about Lonny? 15Amp?
https://www.amazon.com/AKOAK-Schott...UTF8&qid=1539629236&sr=8-3&keywords=diode+12v

 

[Lonny]

I think that should work. From looking at the wiring images the silver stripe should go toward you load. That would be your fan.
I think.
Maybe.
It wouldn't hurt to second guess me.

 

[Briann1177]

You're right. It depends on which wire you hook the diode up to. If you hook it up to the positive wire like you mentioned, then the stripe needs to be facing the fan. If you hook it up to the negative wire, then the stripe needs to be facing away from the fan.

 

[Briann1177]

Also, when you go to hook it up, don't let the diodes polarity throw you off. If you hook up the positive battery wire up to the end of the diode without the stripe, the negative striped side of the diode still hooks up to the positive wire on the fan.

The polarity and current flow direction can get confusing if you think too hard about it.

 

[ncgoblin]

Hey guys I am thinking about making the hood a little unique. About 15 years ago I had a car that was custom painted and the hood was a marbalized grey with a red base over top. It looked awesome well someone did this but I’m thinking about painting the hood the same way for the body guys out their am I crazy if I have never painted before? Should I bite the bullet and pay someone? Marbaling on YouTube looks easy but I’m not sure where to start on the hood.

Thanks