V1 Pisco's extended city goblin #220 (2009 SS/TC donor) Registered

[pisco]

I have fuel pump prime, TB makes noise with pedal input, dash lights up and I have service engine, abs, traction control and the display center says low coolant and low brake fluid (both are dry) but the tach and speedo don't move I'm not sure they are supposed to self test ??
otherwise I am getting several relays popping over when key is turned to start

 

[Ark :D]

Is your clutch held in? Also, make double-sure the engine fuse box bolts are turned as tight as you can by hand (do not use an impact on these).

 

[Rttoys]

Is your clutch held in? Also, make double-sure the engine fuse box bolts are turned as tight as you can by hand (do not use an impact on these).

yep. Obvious first. Push the clutch switch or push in the pedal. ]

 

[pisco]

Yes I tried clutch no brake, clutch and brake, no clutch and brake then I flipped the clutch and brake harness connectors and did it again.
I did use my 1/4" Milwaukee Impact on the fuse box connectors but I I'm pretty good with an impact and snugged them up by hand afterward.
I'll disassemble and double check all the pins are in good shape then reassemble..

 

[ah.b.normal]

I have fuel pump prime, TB makes noise with pedal input, dash lights up and I have service engine, abs, traction control and the display center says low coolant and low brake fluid (both are dry) but the tach and speedo don't move I'm not sure they are supposed to self test ??
otherwise I am getting several relays popping over when key is turned to start

If you replaced the clutch pedal sensor it must be relearned/paired to the BCM. The clutch switch ~08 and newer is not just a switch, it senses a range and the BCM will not recognize any changes of that sensor. Kinda pisses me off but the BCM manages to get in the way of many things or little changes.(Requiring a visit to someone with a particular GM computer programmer, not the kind of computer tool they sell at O'Reilly's or AutoZone.) Also, put a test light on the 12* purple wire that goes to the S pole on the Starter Solenoid, when you turn the key it should light. --------------ALSO You say brake fluid is Empty?! Is the clutch area of the master cylinder also Empty??? That would mean even if you pressed the clutch, the T/O bearing would NOT disengage the clutch! Thus the starter motor would drive the rest of the driveline, unless the trans is shifted in to neutral. Many bad things could happen if the tires are on the ground or hands and other things are too close to moving driveline pieces like tires and half-shafts. -------------I had a bad clutch master and I could put the car in first gear(depress the dead clutch pedal), start it and drive around. I just couldn't shift or get into reverse without turning the motor off.

 

[pisco]

for the clutch yes its the newer style switch but the original switch that came with the donor
Its in Neutral, On jackstands, with no wheels on it,
I have verified by shorting the pins of the crank relay that the purple wire is connected, it cranks and turns over fine but there is no request for crank thus the relay doesn't close. I'm looking for what causes the car to decide not to crank.

 

[Rttoys]

Any passkey (security) lights?

 

[pisco]

Any passkey (security) lights?

I don't know anything about that,
Didn't notice any other lights is this chip key immobilizer?

 

[Rttoys]

I don't know anything about that,
Didn't notice any other lights is this chip key immobilizer?

There is. The key is a “chip”. The key should have a “+” on the side of it. If it’s not working, a key icon should appear on the dash. Just covering bases. You said everything else is working.

 

[pisco]

My next step will be to check every fuse and then using all data diagrams follow the entire control circuit
I didn't want to fill fluids until after I establish it is running
maybe it's time to plug hpt into the obd2 and look at what's goin on there

 

[Rttoys]

Ya. Check for codes. It may show something.

 

[pisco]

fuses are good, power where expected so far
obd2 does not connect I cannot communicate with the vehicle
checking obd2 power and wiring

now I'm worried about the clutch pedal sensor

 

[pisco]

unplugged and reinserted clutch position connector again and it cranked it must have had a bad connection, too late to do a no muffler start now so tomorrow morning I will fire it up.

 

[pisco]

It is alive!!

 

[Ark :D]

It is alive!!

Nice job, you prevailed!

 

[pisco]

Nice job, you prevailed!

eh...
it started, there is alot of work left to do
I can't get my hptuners to connect and it is running with the wrong cams, injectors, fuel, etc. so no more than an idle and one blip on the pedal to verrify it is working correctly

wide band needs to be installed, gauges need to be hooked up, suspension needs to be adjusted and re-torqued, clutch is not bled yet (do I need the round plastic puck inline? ), I need to coat the body panels and install them, and still waiting on seats to be delivered.
as soon as I can get hptuners to connect I will flash a "safe" tune from zzp

 

[pisco]

and I can't get HPtuners to conncet.... sigh

 

[ah.b.normal]

and I can't get HPtuners to conncet.... sigh

Remember to smile when you sigh, it is progress! You're doing it, I don't imagine anyone's build went perfectly smoothly. There was a multi Mechanic build was a speed build record but I'd bet even they had "head scratcher" moments. You're getting there! This forum stands ready to help, and they like doing it!

 

[pisco]

right. It does get frustrating though I gave myself a deadline and must finish this thing .. well ummm I must get this thing on the road, it will never be "finished"
I started a support ticket with hpt Lets see how quickly they respond

 

[Rttoys]

Do you have any generic scanner? See if it will connect. Could be a data wiring problem to the DLC.