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V1 RichN City Goblin - 2007 LT donor
- Lonny Administrator
We originally copied the cobalt cooling system and routed the coolant into the top of the radiator and then out of the bottom.
It seemed to work okay but we would pull the radiator cap and find the radiator would have developed an air pocket at the top. This reduces the radiators ability to cool.
We switched the direction to put the coolant entering the bottom of the radiator and exiting the top. This eliminates the possibility of having an air pocket.
The reason OEMs don't like to do this is if the coolant level ever gets too low it can immediately stop flowing. Our cooling system would have to lose a lot of coolant before this would happen so as long as everyone takes a look at their coolant tank once in a while everything will be okay.
Dynoman56 has 11000 miles on his goblin with the radiator hooked up the old way.
It seemed to work okay but we would pull the radiator cap and find the radiator would have developed an air pocket at the top. This reduces the radiators ability to cool.
We switched the direction to put the coolant entering the bottom of the radiator and exiting the top. This eliminates the possibility of having an air pocket.
The reason OEMs don't like to do this is if the coolant level ever gets too low it can immediately stop flowing. Our cooling system would have to lose a lot of coolant before this would happen so as long as everyone takes a look at their coolant tank once in a while everything will be okay.
Dynoman56 has 11000 miles on his goblin with the radiator hooked up the old way.
RichRich
Well-Known Member
- RichRich Well-Known Member
Yes, that is the way they run it now as I understand it. That is what I mentioned a few posts ago that it would have a hard time purging the air out having to push it down through the radiator before it is able to exit. I think it can honestly be run either way but if you have the passenger side connected to the top you may have to pop the cap and fill it every so often, any air in the system will gather there.
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JSATX
Goblin Guru
- JSATX Goblin Guru
Well I’m going to go out on a limb here and disagree for three reasons.
First and foremost, we all know heat rises. Go grab ahold of your radiator at operating temp. The top of the radiator is significantly warmer. I’ll go check later, but I’m willing to bet there is a solid 15-20° difference between top and bottom of the radiator. Maybe even more with the fan on. Why would you want to suck water into the engine from the hotter top side?
Second is Radiators almost always have a little air trapped in the top. It’s not a bad thing, if your coolant intake tube is down on the bottom of the radiator where there’s no chance that there can be a bubble. I’d much rather have bubbles trapped in the top of my radiator than getting sucked into the engine. Go look on your factory car right now. You’ll see the coolant about 1/2” below the cap. That’s all air.
Third is the cap on the radiator. Try as I might I can’t get it to seal. It will very slowly release pressure or suck in air when it needs too, even though my overflow tube is capped and clamped.
Don’t mean to thread jack. I’m sure you can get it to work either way just fine but I won’t be changing mine anytime soon....
Briann1177
Goblin Guru
- Briann1177 Goblin Guru
Did you notice there are a couple of low areas? It might be just the angle too. Not trying to be critical, but that will probably stick out like a sore thumb when you get paint on it especially with a gloss paint.
RichN
Well-Known Member
- RichN Well-Known Member
Haven’t driven it since December 3, so I took it out for a while, 60 degrees today.
No leaks from the radiator and steering is where it was before the accident.
Only issue is the fuel gauge isn’t working again.
I love the new rims and tires.
Waiting for spacers so I can mount the rear fenders.
No leaks from the radiator and steering is where it was before the accident.
Only issue is the fuel gauge isn’t working again.
I love the new rims and tires.
Waiting for spacers so I can mount the rear fenders.
ctuinstra
Goblin Guru
- ctuinstra Goblin Guru
I elected to go with the 4x100 hubs from the standard 5-bolt of the SS/SC and now all I see are 5-bolt wheels. I can't find near as many 4 bolt wheels as I do the 5 bolt. I'm not sure what the original 5 bolt size was and if that's the problem.
Good that you were able to get yours out today. Wheels look nice.
Good that you were able to get yours out today. Wheels look nice.
Waterdriver
Goblin Guru
- Waterdriver Goblin Guru
CTUINSTRA: SS/SC = 5x110
I wasn't able to find any 5x110's that were the offset and weight I was looking for with the price I was willing to pay. I'm going 4x100 as well.
I wasn't able to find any 5x110's that were the offset and weight I was looking for with the price I was willing to pay. I'm going 4x100 as well.
ctuinstra
Goblin Guru
- ctuinstra Goblin Guru
Not trying to high jack this thread, but to close out my comment earlier; I think this issue I'm having is looking for 18" rims in the 4x100 because my donor tires are 18" and in good shape and want to keep them for now. I'm thinking about going with 18" in the rear and 16" in the front and replacing the front tires.
Rich, you running the same size all around? What size are those?
Rich, you running the same size all around? What size are those?
