V1 Robinjo #405 Full Cage - 2006 SS/SC Build "Drago"

[Robinjo]

Update from the holiday season. Our grill material came in and got that installed. Nothing fancy, just shaped the mesh to bend around the opening and then epoxied it in place. If this doesn't hold well, then I'll bend some washers into L-brackets and epoxy them in place for using zip-ties to hold the grill. Next, I loosened the whole rear cradle and mounts to try to get the front solid trans mount in place. All I can get is one bolt on the trans and one bolt the bolt through the subframe. Next time the engine comes out I'll try to slot that mount hole to get the second trans mount bolt in. Even with just these two bolts (of three bolts) you can feel more vibration through the chassis. Lastly, I also re-aligned the whole car using the string method previously posted in my build (post #141). The front was off for some reason (wheel not straight) and then the rear was out of position from moving everything around for the solid mount. I've only taken it for a quick ride around the neighborhood but it seems more straight and stable.

Grill:


Things to do:

• Front trans mount
• Install front splitter - awaiting completion of unit Nov. 16th TBD
• Random P2138 Code -
• Learn to Tune w/ HP Tuner - Installed and downloaded base file
• Connect the Wideband to HP Tuner
• MIL Light on with no codes (stored or pending)
• Oil Pan
• 10mm Spacers (front at least)
• Windshield Scratch Removal
• Grill Installation

 

[Robinjo]

Got the front splitter finally and installed it. Yes, I know the 90-degree and 45-degree bends are swapped. I'll be addressing that at some point.... my son wants to keep it bare aluminum, so it's not getting painted right now. I did cut two rectangular shaped holes under the front hood mounting locations. I can take the hood off without removing the splitter now. You can feel the difference almost immediately, from 30-35mph the front end feels much more 'heavy'. It's even better at higher speeds, of course.



Things to do:

• Install front splitter - awaiting completion of unit Nov. 16th TBD
• Random P2138 Code
• Learn to Tune w/ HP Tuner - Installed and downloaded base file
• Connect the Wideband to HP Tuner
• MIL Light on with no codes (stored or pending)
• Oil Pan
• 10mm Spacers (front at least)

 

[escapepilot]

I like those splitters.

 

[Robinjo]

I like those splitters.

I do too, more than the front spoiler. I feel the front spoiler is much more functional though. I just wanted some better downforce in the front and still be appealing to me. The front end is so light, especially over about 50mph that it definitely needed something.

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Or you could give a sasquatch a ride and the front end is pretty well weighted down! Just ask @Amack1970. 

 

[Robinjo]

Or you could give a sasquatch a ride and the front end is pretty well weighted down! Just ask @Amack1970. 

I want beneficial weight added, not penalty weight!

In more serious items, I got my hands on an old SACTX Group Buy shifter kit from the Books of Face Goblin Group. Installation was very, very easy but I had to wait a couple days for a shift knob. The Hurst one from my stock unit didn't fit the M10x1.5 shaft on the new-to-me unit. I only got to take Drago down the street really quickly before it started raining, but this unit feels much more solid and predictable than the stock Cobalt one. That and I no longer have to worry about breaking those stupid stock plastic end links. Whoever designed those should have to turn in their Engineering degree. Unfortunately, my Things to Do list didn't get any shorter as this was a surprise job.

Shifter Installed

Solid Shifter OFFICIAL GROUP BUY

UPDATED 1/28 with final pricing. Ok everyone. It's time to get this going. Original thread : https://dfkitcar.com/forum/index.php?threads/aftermarket-solid-shifter.1382/ A full set up ready to install is $317.00 with reversers, $265.00 without. A full set up when you modify the shifter...

dfkitcar.com

Things to Do:

• Random P2138 Code
• Learn to Tune w/ HP Tuner - Installed and downloaded base file
• Connect the Wideband to HP Tuner
• MIL Light on with no codes (stored or pending)
• Oil Pan
• 10mm Spacers (front at least)
• Make shifter brace

 

[Ark :D]

I've loved the group-buy shifter since I got it. It was GREAT work by @SACTX .

 

[Robinjo]

I've loved the group-buy shifter since I got it. It was GREAT work by @SACTX .

I just have a little flexing of the tunnel cover that I need to figure out. Other than that, it seems a lot more solid than the stock unit. If the DF Shift Kit is even better than this, it has to be just amazing.

 

[Rttoys]

Need a stiff arm on the shifter to the frame. Makes a world of difference. The way I mounted my seats, was a perfect location for a dead arm.

 

[Robinjo]

Need a stiff arm on the shifter to the frame. Makes a world of difference. The way I mounted my seats, was a perfect location for a dead arm.
View attachment 37948View attachment 37949

Did you make an arm for both sides or just the passenger seat?

 

[Rttoys]

Just the one. I figured I would see how that works first before adding a second, but a second one is not needed.

 

[Goblinfanclub1234]

is anyone using those braces for the new DF shifter design or is this just for that version of the shifter??

 

[Rttoys]

Not sure. No one really reported anything on that

 

[Robinjo]

Just an update on my build. We haven't done a whole lot other than drive it around and enjoy it.
1. I installed a heat blocking sheet. I got a template that another member posted, got it turned into a sticker, laid it on some ABS plastic and cut it out. It's held in by zip-ties and has a bit of pipe insulating foam to fill the gap to the hood. I'll grab some photos next time I have the hood off.
2. I installed a led light that is tied in with the running lights. It is on the back side of the gauge cluster, so it works as an 'interior' light at night. It fit perfectly back there.
3. I also got a used oil pan, installed it and no longer have a leaky oil pan. I have a leaky pan if anyone needs one to lubricate their subframe and floor.
4. I also installed some 32mm spacers in the rear to get the rear wheels wider than the front. This helped a good bit in stopping the rear from rotating around under acceleration. That and setting the rear dampers to 4-clicks from softest setting.
5. Lastly, I ran terribly in an Autocross. The dampers were WAY too stiff and the high that day was 34 oF but it was fun. I did get to add some awesome 9EM decals to the side panels

I guess I've done a lot more than I though looking back on it, but still have a good amount left.

LED Light

https://www.amazon.com/KUJOBUY-Electroluminescent-Backlight-Decorations-Universal/dp/B09W7L6M9B?pd_rd_w=8Ddij&content-id=amzn1.sym.deffa092-2e99-4e9f-b814-0d71c40b24af&pf_rd_p=deffa092-2e99-4e9f-b814-0d71c40b24af&pf_rd_r=MM7T23Q6C14P7AB6DBJ8&pd_rd_wg=PiwXN&pd_rd_r=9c461b18-2d07-43d6-ab37-210ec35ab651&pd_rd_i=B09W7L6M9B&psc=1&ref_=pd_bap_d_grid_rp_0_15_t

Heat Block-off Plate
Note: I called a local sign and banner store that made me the template sticker. From there, I transferred to my CAD (cardboard aid device) to make the initial test part. Once I was happy with the general shape, I transferred that to some ABS plastic I had laying around. The foam along the top is to finish the space between the heat blocker and the hood. It works well, I need to tape a couple of open spots but overall it does what is intended.


I do want to lower my fan kick-on temperature. My vehicle got up to 201 oF yesterday after a drive in 85 oF ambient temperature. I think it should come on about 175 or 180 oF. Any issues here?

Things to Do:

• Random P2138 Code - Think this is wiring related as of 4/16/2023
• Learn to Tune w/ HP Tuner - Installed and downloaded base file
• Connect the Wideband to HP Tuner
• MIL Light on with no codes (stored or pending)
• Oil Pan
• Make shifter brace
• Install new (to me) engine harness (maybe.....)
• Download IAT2 PID (222006) to Torque Pro app
• Lower cooling fan switch on temp

 

[Ross]

Just an update on my build. We haven't done a whole lot other than drive it around and enjoy it.
...
I do want to lower my fan kick-on temperature. My vehicle got up to 201 oF yesterday after a drive in 85 oF ambient temperature. I think it should come on about 175 or 180 oF. Any issues here?

Things to Do:

• Learn to Tune w/ HP Tuner - Installed and downloaded base file
• Lower cooling fan switch on temp

I changed my "Fan Desired" in HP Tuners to lower my coolant temperatures from the stock 223F settings.
The bottom of the table: "Desired % vs ECT" is 192.2F, so I am not sure you will be able to set it lower than that temperature.

 

[Rttoys]

34* at autocross? Ain’t noth’n gonna work right. We did that a year ago, it was about 36-38* and you just make the best of it.

I can’t remember exactly what your engine mods are, but I may have a tune you can use.

 

[Robinjo]

34* at autocross? Ain’t noth’n gonna work right. We did that a year ago, it was about 36-38* and you just make the best of it.

I can’t remember exactly what your engine mods are, but I may have a tune you can use.

It was not fun. Fleece lined pants and tops with hot hands in the shoes and gloves. The tires were not griping anything.
3.0” pulley, 42# injectors, dual pass plate, ZZP shorty header and the stock DF 2.5” muffler setup. I think it also has the red ZZP coil packs and 1-step colder plugs. I know, the coil packs don’t do much but there were already on it and they match the color scheme. All on 93 octane.

 

[Rttoys]

Hhmm. I wonder if the GM “stage 2” tune would work for you. That’s basically the same parts they use: 77.9mm (30.06”) pulley, 42# injectors, cold air intake and free flow exhaust. I can send it to you this weekend. Just gotta fire up the laptop.

 

[Robinjo]

Hhmm. I wonder if the GM “stage 2” tune would work for you. That’s basically the same parts they use: 77.9mm (30.06”) pulley, 42# injectors, cold air intake and free flow exhaust. I can send it to you this weekend. Just gotta fire up the laptop.

That's what tune I'm on right now. It's pretty good. I just wanted to adjust my fan on engagement, which looks nothing like all the YouTube tutorials on HPTuner. Ours have a funky ratio looking chart, all the videos just show changing a set temperature value. 215-220F seems awfully high, but my background is Honda's and not GM systems.

 

[Ross]

The list of LSJ Tunes doesn't have any with 42 lb/hour injectors. Care to share that tune here, since the forum accepts *.hpt files?