V1 Track Day Monster 2009 SS/TC Track Frame

[dperkins]

Bad news... my smog guy says he needs to test the evap system Looks like I'll have to figure something out on how to mount it. luckily I know a few others are putting them in as well.

I'm sending in my hubs to be redrilled soon. I'm not sure if i should replace the hubs, but I think I should because the ones I have are on 270k miles. What are people using to replace them?

 

[Briann1177]

I have Moog 512250s for for the original rears and what I think are A.C. Delcos for the front. AutoZone specials. About $600 all the way around.

 

[Karter2026]

Bad news... my smog guy says he needs to test the evap system Looks like I'll have to figure something out on how to mount it. luckily I know a few others are putting them in as well.

I'm sending in my hubs to be redrilled soon. I'm not sure if i should replace the hubs, but I think I should because the ones I have are on 270k miles. What are people using to replace them?

Replace the whole thing. Not worth the hassle if you can even buy the bearings only. I have replaced many of these in the past some cheap brand some name brand. Seen both of them fail in short period of time and seen them both last a while. Biggest thing is do not run the axle nut on with a impact gun till it is tight. Run it in then tighten it by hand and torque it to the spec. That is the biggest cause of failure is over torquing the axle nut. Use anti-seize where the steel meets the aluminum spindle.

 

[ctuinstra]

Sweet block you have there!

 

[dperkins]

I think I'll go with the Moogs for the front and the Moogs for the rear too. These look good, and they aren't super expensive.

 

[dperkins]

Got the engine opened up last night. Didn’t show it but I got both the intake and exhaust headers off, and wow, are my valves covered. I’ll take some more pics later today. Think it would have been best if I ran a few cans of sea foam or valve cleaner through the engine when it was running.

Good thing I am replacing the turbo, because it’s cracked pretty bad. Along with that is the exhaust header, so looks like I have to get a new one of those

 

[David]

I see you have the bar3 map sensor did you have a tune on the engine

 

[David]

Got the engine opened up last night. Didn’t show it but I got both the intake and exhaust headers off, and wow, are my valves covered. I’ll take some more pics later today. Think it would have been best if I ran a few cans of sea foam or valve cleaner through the engine when it was running. View attachment 2048

Good thing I am replacing the turbo, because it’s cracked pretty bad. Along with that is the exhaust header, so looks like I have to get a new one of those

So juat curious what block did you go with and what's going to be your complete build? I'm assuming you want with the Ldk block what are you doing for the head and turbo

 

[dperkins]

So juat curious what block did you go with and what's going to be your complete build? I'm assuming you want with the Ldk block what are you doing for the head and turbo

I believe the previous owner did put a tune on it but I don’t know by who. I went with the LNF short block, and I got a ported head and a z54 turbo. At the end it will have a lot of things like new cams springs pistons rods and other stuff.

 

[Briann1177]

I hear the LDK has a few more HP out of the crate, and it's quite a bit sturdier than the LNF when it comes to cranking out 400 HP. The LNFs are foam cast which I think is the reason they aren't as sturdy under high power applications.

 

[David]

I hear the LDK has a few more HP out of the crate, and it's quite a bit sturdier than the LNF when it comes to cranking out 400 HP.

That's what I read also but I also heard real good things about the Z54

 

[dperkins]

I hear the LDK has a few more HP out of the crate, and it's quite a bit sturdier than the LNF when it comes to cranking out 400 HP. The LNFs are foam cast which I think is the reason they aren't as sturdy under high power applications.

The Z54 is good to 480 wheel with e85, so 400 wheel should be possible. Also, the LNF block I got was gen 3 so it was sand casted. Here’s all the improvements:

Improvements include:
-Cylinder wall bracing that prevents sleeves from breaking out in high HP applications
-Sand casting which removes porosity found in the older foam cast Gen 1 and Gen 2 blocks
-5 pounds of additional aluminum adding internal structural support and solves the coolant jacket leakage issues with Gen 2 blocks

I didn’t want the LDK because from the photos it looks like it’s pre built and I want to build it myself.

 

[dperkins]

Got a lot done tonight. The head is off, along with the timing chains and other things. Now all I have to do is drop the tranny and I am pretty much done with the old engine block

This is what my valves all looked like after 270k...

 

[dperkins]

Done with the old engine block

Time to move all the parts on to the new one.

Happened to loose a few washers and bolts into the oil pan that were from the timing chain area. Had to remove the oil pan, not without some malleting though. I see some white sealant residue around the pan and also in another spot that is holding the crankshaft on acting like a gasket:

It's sort of like a rubbery substance. On the new block I need to remove the pan and maybe the other part holding the crankshaft on. Don't know what this stuff is and hopefully I can break the seal without needing to reapply.

 

[dperkins]

Old new pistons out! Time to put the new rods on the new pistons and try to figure out how to put the pistons in the block without damaging the crank or the block.

 

[ctuinstra]

Do you have a ring compressor? Make sure to use good assembly lube.

 

[Lonny]

You can use assembly lube on the rod bearings but not in the cylinders.

Assembly lube is very slick which is good for bearings but it will keep the rings from seating if you use it on the cylinders.

Wipe a thin layer of motor oil in each cylinder before installing the pistons.

In your image I don't see the rod caps with the rods. Rod caps are not interchangeable from one rod to another. Hopefully there is a number on each rod and cap to allow you to match them back up. Also rod caps have to be put back on the same direction they came off.

There is a right and wrong direction to connect the rod to the piston and the pistons have to be put in the block in the correct direction.

While installing a rod and piston assembly it helps to position the rod journal in a bottom dead center position. This will give you more room.

 

[PHerder]

I have used rubber hoses on the end of the rod bolts to help guide the rods over the crankshaft and to protect the crank journals from the rod bolt threads. Something like 6" long hose on each rod bolt.

 

[Briann1177]

You also need to make sure the rings are oriented correctly. Some manufacturers might use 120 degrees and others 180 degrees.

 

[dperkins]

A lot to respond to here...

Do you have a ring compressor? Make sure to use good assembly lube.

I got a ring compressor a few days ago. I bought one from my local o Reilly's. Hopefully it will work and not screw up my pistons.

You can use assembly lube on the rod bearings but not in the cylinders.

Assembly lube is very slick which is good for bearings but it will keep the rings from seating if you use it on the cylinders.

Wipe a thin layer of motor oil in each cylinder before installing the pistons.

In your image I don't see the rod caps with the rods. Rod caps are not interchangeable from one rod to another. Hopefully there is a number on each rod and cap to allow you to match them back up. Also rod caps have to be put back on the same direction they came off.

The pistons that you are seeing are the old ones I took out. The new ones I just completed a few minutes ago:

(The new are the shiner ones)

All of the pistons I numbered and I also numbered the rod caps, so whatever I do with them they will be together.

There is a right and wrong direction to connect the rod to the piston and the pistons have to be put in the block in the correct direction.

The rods I bought were symmetrical and I could install them in any way. The pistons have a little dot that is supposed to be facing the front of the engine, and by looking at the old engine it seems they call the timing chain area front.

I have used rubber hoses on the end of the rod bolts to help guide the rods over the crankshaft and to protect the crank journals from the rod bolt threads. Something like 6" long hose on each rod bolt.

My rods have bolts that disconnect and are not attached to the rod itself or the caps.

You also need to make sure the rings are oriented correctly. Some manufacturers might use 120 degrees and others 180 degrees.

In the manual for the pistons they show the correct way to install the rings (180degrees)

The only thing I am worried about is my cheap o Reilly piston compressor really messing the whole piston up, like a scratch or a scuff...